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YACT: O2 sensor question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter kt
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K

kt

Diamond Member
My check engine light came on over the weekend and my friend has an OBDII scanner tool handy. According to the scanning tool, the O2 Heater Sensor Circuit is malfunctioning. I don't have a clue what that is except that it is one of the sensors the ECU use to detect efficiency of the engine, etc.

Can I still drive the car with the O2 sensor out? What are the consequences if I were to drive it for the rest of the week and bring it to the shop for repair during the weekend. And finally, the $64K question...what am I looking at to get it fixed?

The car is 1996 Honda Accord EX with VTEC engine.
 
Got our O2 sensor replaced for $55 (price of part - bought ourselves at autozone) + $35 (half hour labor) for a '90 Accord. It's a relatively cheap job for something that caused us many months of headaches and money spent on misdiagnosis. :|
 
Originally posted by: crab
You should give the year, make, model, etc...
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Agreed! No one can give you an estimate on a replacement part without knowing what kind of car you have. The price will be different.


: ) Amanda
 
No rush. The part is under $100, varying greatly on car, and if you have the O2 socket you can replace it yourself quite easily.
 
All you really need is an open ended wrench to replace an O2 sensor. I did all 4 of them myself on my '96 Rodeo for around $120. Do yourself a favor though and buy the OEM sensor, they come with the proper connector so you don't have to deal with wiring it in yourself.

Edit - You should be able to drive it for a few weeks at least before your car starts to run rough and eventually it won't start at all. Still, I'd get it done ASAP but that's just me.
 
From what a lot of you guys are saying, it is an easy DIY repair. Where's the O2 sensors located? I am guessing there are more than one sensors in the car since it is specifically indicating the one at Bank 1, Slot 2 sensor that is broken. Thanksk.
 
Originally posted by: kt
From what a lot of you guys are saying, it is an easy DIY repair. Where's the O2 sensors located? I am guessing there are more than one sensors in the car since it is specifically indicating the one at Bank 1, Slot 2 sensor that is broken. Thanksk.
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Go to your local auto parts store and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific model/year car. It will tell you in there where they are and give you a good idea how to go about replacing them. Make sure you buy the part from Honda if you're going to do it yourself though. Sometimes this job can be a PITA if the sensors are in an awkward location. Mine were all underneath the car (two before the cats and two after the cats) and weren't very difficult to reach once the front of the vehicle was up on jackstands.
 
The public library has the manual on their database also. Cheaper than buying the manual at a store. I'd start there first.
 
I was going to do the DIY thing (after numerous threads here) but:

1) I couldn't find the damned thing (even after looking through this (when it was still working)

2) My mechanic said himself it was a b!tch to pry off. I certainly don't have the tools to do it in my driveway if it was hard for them. Find someone who will do it for you for .5 hours labor and save yourself the headache.
 
Originally posted by: rh71
I was going to do the DIY thing (after numerous threads here) but:

1) I couldn't find the damned thing (even after looking through this (when it was still working)

2) My mechanic said himself it was a b!tch to pry off. I certainly don't have the tools to do it in my driveway if it was hard for them. Find someone who will do it for you for .5 hours labor and save yourself the headache.
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They're usually a bitch to unbolt. Rust doesn't help😉

This and this will make the job a snap. (wow, good pun) And no, you don't have to get them from SnapOn.

Let me see if I can find the location of the sensors.

EDIT: is a V6?
 
Haynes is a good idea, or you can find a board for your specific car. Bank 1 sensor 2 on mine is, I believe, a rear sensor. Access for it is easier than the front.

All you do is find it, unhook the electrical connector, unscrew it, screw new one back in, hook in connector.

As mentioned above they can be hard to get off. My mistake when I did mine was trying to use a standard ratchet. I tried PB Blaster and also a propane torch and all for naught. I eventually bought a breaker bar (or just a very long ratchet - or just a tube fitting over your existing one for more torque), and the thing unscrewed like nothing.As long as you have decent access to it a long ratchet/breaker bar is sure to get it off. Those will give you enough torque to destroy things, so it's unlikely for the sensor to continue to not cooperate.
 
Originally posted by: SkoorbI eventually bought a breaker bar (or just a very long ratchet - or just a tube fitting over your existing one for more torque)
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That's my favorite tool in the whole box. There's nothing like struggling with a bolt with a standard ratchet, then slipping the cheater pipe over the end of it and effortlessly releasing the bolt. How satisfying! "Take THAT you f'ing bolt!"

Of course, this can also cause bolts / nuts to shear off and leave you with more of a problem, but when it works, it's great. 🙂
 
Before you replace your O2 sensor, check your gas cap. There is a small possibility that it is loose, missing, or damaged, your fuel system isn't properly pressurizing, and that can possibly throw a front O2 lean code.

Yes, you can still drive with a faulty O2, but the ECU may not run the engine in proper tune at all times. It is something you want to get fixed, but it's not an emergency.

Most cars have at least two O2 sensors, usually 1 in front of the main cat and 1 after. You need to know which O2 sensors is failing, and that information should be in the CEL code you pulled. Replacement is easy, but you will need the proper tools to work underneath your car, like a good jack and jackstands, or a set of car ramps.
 
i just had the same problem on my explorer...except the o2 sensors were GOOD (even after replacing). It's my heater circuit that's bad, so the wiring must be fugged somewhere....

-=bmacd=-
 
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