YACT: my car is broken.....

[NeoPTLD]

Ok, so the timing belt + tensioner is bad and I'm getting htem replaced and I've been quoted $430 total (parts + labor)

Does it sound reasonable?

Car:
1993
Mazda
MPV
V6 3.0L SOHC

work being performed: replacement of timing belt and timing belt tensioner(hydraulic controlled they say)

*update* I went in and checked out the car.

So far they need to replace: hydraulic timing belt tensioner(weird thing mazda use). They said the tensioner is busted and leaking hydraulic fluid. This tensioner applies pressure to mechanical tensioner which actually handles the belt. $157.70

mechanical tensioners + idler bearings/pulleys :$124.80. Do I really need these replaced??

some gasket thing: $14.50
$47.75 timing belt
$45.00 for fan&alt, P/S, A/C belt. Since they already have them pulled off, I requested new belts.

One of the bolt that holds the hydraulic tensioner in place is broken off in the block and they're charging me to drill this out. Also a chunk of aluminum from the block, which the timing belt cover screws into is broken off. I have no idea how that broke off and their explanation is "I don't know". My friend suspect they broke it and is trying to save their ass, but how do I prove it one way or the other? Before I went in to look at it, they pointed out "we found this is broken off, but its insignficant". I find it kind of suspicious why they'd put an emphasis on it being insignificant

$157.70 tensioner, hydraulic
$124.80 tensioner, mechanical + hardware
$47.75 timing belt
$45 fan, alt, A/C belts
$240 labor
$15 shim gasket
$?? labor drill out bolt

$615.25 + bolt drill out

 

[DurocShark]

Make
Model
Year
Engine
Tranny

And an Aamco tranny = <nelson> Haw Haw! </nelson>

 

[NeoPTLD]

^

 

[CrackRabbit]

Originally posted by: DurocShark
Make
Model
Year
Engine
Tranny

And an Aamco tranny = <nelson> Haw Haw! </nelson>

Yep, you got suckered on that Aamco tranny, they are the worst in the business.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: DurocShark
Make
Model
Year
Engine
Tranny

And an Aamco tranny = <nelson> Haw Haw! </nelson>

 

[BMdoobieW]

Originally posted by: DurocShark
Make
Model
Year
Engine
Tranny

And an Aamco tranny = <nelson> Haw Haw! </nelson>

 

[NeoPTLD]

1993
Mazda
MPV
3.0L V6 SOHC
Ghetto Aamco rebuilt tranny
135K miles

Idles extremely rough, will not rev up smoothly, strong vibration from distributor cap.

 

[kami333]

Checked to make sure all the hoses, etc are in the right place?

 

[NeoPTLD]

Originally posted by: kami333
Checked to make sure all the hoses, etc are in the right place?

The car ran fine for a long time, then it started acting up. Nothing was loose and if they aren't coming loose and the car was running fine the day before, I'm certain they're in right places.

 

[shekondar]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
1993
Mazda
MPV
3.0L V6 SOHC
Ghetto Aamco rebuilt tranny
135K miles

Idles extremely rough, will not rev up smoothly, strong vibration from distributor cap.

Is the cap and/or distributor loose? If so, that could be causing all sorts of problems...
If the cap is loose, make sure it is fastened down completely (should have a couple of screws or latches holding it down). If the entire distributor is loose, there should be a bolt holding it to the engine block - tighten this (but you'll also need to check the ignition timing).

 

[SaturnX]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Engine was all warmed up, but it would still stall unless I keep my foot on the gas and even in Park, idling was rough. While in gear, the car doesn't accelerate right and it struggles to reach 40mph. When I floor the gas, engine revs up to 4,000 RPM and I can hear it roaring, but the car doesn't want to accelerate correspondingly.

Sounds to me like an O2, or MAP Sensor, well with the rough idling, had that happen with my car, a new MAP sensor fixed everything right up.

--Mark

 

[CraigRT]

Originally posted by: SaturnX

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Engine was all warmed up, but it would still stall unless I keep my foot on the gas and even in Park, idling was rough. While in gear, the car doesn't accelerate right and it struggles to reach 40mph. When I floor the gas, engine revs up to 4,000 RPM and I can hear it roaring, but the car doesn't want to accelerate correspondingly.

Sounds to me like an O2, or MAP Sensor, well with the rough idling, had that happen with my car, a new MAP sensor fixed everything right up.

--Mark

02 sensor would likely not cause this, although some other things could.

 

[NeoPTLD]

What explains engine revving up to 4,000RPM when I stomp on the gas, but I don't feel the power being delivered?

 

[CVSiN]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
My car drove just fine yesterday, but when I went to drive it today, it was having serious problems.

Started her up and put her in reverse. Engine stalls. Repeated this about six times before I finally made it out of my parking spot.

Engine was all warmed up, but it would still stall unless I keep my foot on the gas and even in Park, idling was rough. While in gear, the car doesn't accelerate right and it struggles to reach 40mph. When I floor the gas, engine revs up to 4,000 RPM and I can hear it roaring, but the car doesn't want to accelerate correspondingly.

The latter is pretty obvious its a transmisison problem.

Also, When I put it in park and floor the gas, engine only revs up to 4,000RPM and sounds like its turning against a load. I'm not sure if this is a result of engine problem or somehow the torque converter not being released from engine.

So, did I develop engine + transmission problem simultaneously or does it seem like a transmission problem that is putting excessive load on engine? The transmission is a rebuild by Aamco and only has 30,000 miles on it.

Its not a blue WRX that recently went through a house is it?

 

[NeoPTLD]

Right now, my car struggles to get up to 35mph even with the gas floored.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Right now, my car struggles to get up to 35mph even with the gas floored.

hmm id guess either broken transmission, or timing is off. If the timing is off, could be a jumped tooths on the cam gears by the timing belt or chain, or something is wrong with the distributor.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
What explains engine revving up to 4,000RPM when I stomp on the gas, but I don't feel the power being delivered?

Cylinder misfiring?

 

[NeoPTLD]

Update:

The engine malfunction:
Timing belt tensioner damaged. Timing belt + tensioner replacement.

Transmission: w/ the engine not running right, the vacuum wasn't pulling right and the misshifting was as a result of loss of vacuum says the shop.

They said the cost is $430 for parts + labor Does it seem reasonbale?

 

[NikPreviousAcct]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
My car drove just fine yesterday, but when I went to drive it today, it was having serious problems.

Started her up and put her in reverse. Engine stalls. Repeated this about six times before I finally made it out of my parking spot.

Engine was all warmed up, but it would still stall unless I keep my foot on the gas and even in Park, idling was rough. While in gear, the car doesn't accelerate right and it struggles to reach 40mph. When I floor the gas, engine revs up to 4,000 RPM and I can hear it roaring, but the car doesn't want to accelerate correspondingly.

I had that problem when my engine was literally spewing out oil on the highway. Came SO close to running it completely out of oil (oil pan was wet, but empty).

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Update:

The engine malfunction:
Timing belt tensioner damaged. Timing belt + tensioner replacement.

Transmission: w/ the engine not running right, the vacuum wasn't pulling right and the misshifting was as a result of loss of vacuum says the shop.

They said the cost is $430 for parts + labor Does it seem reasonbale?

No...i would think $430 total would be reasonable...430 plus labor is killing you for the price onthe parts, especially when you are taling a timing belt and a tensioner and the accesory/serpentine belt.


The "auto hydraulic" tensioner is $128.19

and the traditioinal pivot mounting one is $88.95 retail, $24-48 wholesale. You need the two idler bearings too. and a new tensioner spacer. a whole timing belt kit is $220 retail, $152 wholesale.

http://www.importeccatalog.com/ <---prices taken from here

$430 for parts is rediculous.

Edit:wait, if you have the hydraulic tensioner, that means you have a timing chain. the belt uses the mechanical tensioner. chains usually dont go bad, but they may stretch or the cam teeth could wear out if they are plastic, or the chain guides can wear.

 

[thomsbrain]

it should be more like $430 for the entire job, not for parts. get another opinion on the problem and quote from a different mechanic. go to cars.com and in the car talk section there are user reviews of mechanics for many areas. even if it's really the belt/tensioner that needs replacing, that is a crazy high estimate.

 

[NeoPTLD]

yes I mean $430 for entire job. I may have been unclear in the way I wrote it.

 

[NeoPTLD]

^update^

 

[jemcam]

One of the bolt that holds the hydraulic tensioner in place is broken off in the block and they're charging me to drill this out. Also a chunk of aluminum from the block, which the timing belt cover screws into is broken off. I have no idea how that broke off and their explanation is "I don't know". My friend suspect they broke it and is trying to save their ass, but how do I prove it one way or the other? Before I went in to look at it, they pointed out "we found this is broken off, but its insignficant". I find it kind of suspicious why they'd put an emphasis on it being insignificant

Is the metal where it's broken off clean? If it's fresh, the point where it broke off will look shinier than the metal around it, especially if it's aluminum. If it's the same color as the metal around and near it, it's not fresh. Pictures would help.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
What explains engine revving up to 4,000RPM when I stomp on the gas, but I don't feel the power being delivered?

The timing may be mal-adjusted.

This would not be caused by the belt being off a single tooth (not likely anyway) and given that youe engine is of the interferance type, it's very unlikely that the engine could survive without self-destructing if the timing belt were more than one tooth off.

Check your spark system.

ZV

EDIT: As for the timing belt, those are cheap prices. My old Accord was a $600 job all-told and the 944, well, it's damn close to 4 digits if it's one of the alternate changes (waterpump is replaced every other belt change, along with all front-of-engine seals), just the belt and pulleys is $600-$700.