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YACT: just finished doing front brakes, fluid question

kevman

Diamond Member
the old pads were shot, i replaced both pads and rotors. Used a method of compressing the pistion back while keeping the reservior cap open. did not bleed the lines. what i found strange was there was way more brake fluid the the max in the reservior when I completed the second side. I figured it would only go as far back as when the car had new pads, maybe less, but why would it go beyond the max line ? I soaked some up with a clean rag so that it would be at the proper level. but still puzzeld. no spongy or soft feeling in the pedal, but i might go and flush the lines tommorow based on how to the car drives today.

 
Yeah, what jagec said.

The fluid level is the least of your problems, since you sucked the excess out w/a rag (next time use a straw or an eyedropper, that stuff will eat the paint if you slop it around).

When you test drive it pay a lot of attention to the car pulling a little to the right or left. New pads w/new rotors forces the caliper pistons back into an area that they havn't been in since the car was new, causing them to hang and stick. You don't want to lunch your new rotors.
 
You should have bled the brakes to get the fluid down to the right level. Now you should flush the lines and bleed the brakes.
 
gonna bleed the lines tommorow on all four in the order stated in the FSM. The car drive fine, brakes good, but for my own piece of mind i'm bleed out everything.
 
The only time you should have to bleed the brakes is when you open the brake system (that does not include taking the res cap off).
 
You don't need to bleed the brakes because you didn't allow any air to get in. you're just wasting your time.
 
You're fine with just pulling some out of the top of the reservoir, and as the first respondent mentioned, it was due to adding fluid between changes of pads at some point. If the brakes feel good, just lower that level down and you're good!
 
Originally posted by: Skoorb
You're fine with just pulling some out of the top of the reservoir, and as the first respondent mentioned, it was due to adding fluid between changes of pads at some point. If the brakes feel good, just lower that level down and you're good!

ok, i can trust a maxima guy

<---- owns two maximas also
 
Did you clean/grease the caliper pins? That's important...
Anyway, congrats on doing your brakes yourself. Everyone is telling you the truth about the extra fluid.
 
Originally posted by: kevman
Originally posted by: Skoorb
You're fine with just pulling some out of the top of the reservoir, and as the first respondent mentioned, it was due to adding fluid between changes of pads at some point. If the brakes feel good, just lower that level down and you're good!

ok, i can trust a maxima guy

<---- owns two maximas also

i wouldn't trust him
 
Originally posted by: radioouman
Did you clean/grease the caliper pins? That's important...
Anyway, congrats on doing your brakes yourself. Everyone is telling you the truth about the extra fluid.

pins ? as in the bolts ? or the path on which the pad moves back and forth ? i did clean both.

I am very pleasantly suprised at how easy this was. The hardest part was removing the Torque member bolts, having a breaker bar defiantley was handy
 
Don't waste your time bleeding the brakes unless you have reason to believe you need to (air trapped in the system, or fluid is as old as the car).

Otherwise, get a turkey baster and pull some fluid out.
 
My old pu has the original brake fluid, except for when I did a caliper change at 250K. And then I just topped and bled them.

Quit running the truck (daily) after it was rear ended by a county cop. Out braked her. 270K and still running/braking just fine.

So I never could figure out just when you should "flush" the system. I don't beleive in unnecessary maintenance.
 
Do not forget that when you replace pads you are putting in pads that are thicker and the
caliper piston is back further than it used to be and that is what is primarily reponsible for the fluid level rise in the master cylinder.
 
Originally posted by: kotss
Do not forget that when you replace pads you are putting in pads that are thicker and the
caliper piston is back further than it used to be and that is what is primarily reponsible for the fluid level rise in the master cylinder.

good point.
 
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