YACT: I need AT approval/comments

[AgaBoogaBoo]

I have a 91 Accord, yes a 4 banger

Anyway, I've been wanting to mod this a little to get some more power out of this and make it a little more fun to drive, especially since I'd like to start autocrossing in a beginner's league or something this summer.

I was thinking an AEM short ram intake for around $100 as well as a Greddy exhaust, but I just realized the price I saw ($165) was for a "Greddy STYLE" catback exhaust. I'm guessing this isn't as good as the real thing, but how much of a difference will there be between this style and the real thing?

Friend said to get a catco unversal converter, this is only around $30 or so.

The goal of some of these mods is to increase power a little and then later on closer to the summer I'll get some suspension work. Since I'm new to all this, I need your advice as to what I should do. I asked on some Honda forums and they told me to do a short ram or CAI, DC Sports ceramic header, and exhaust to start. I'm thinking of skipping the header right now since it's $300, a bit more than the other things right now.

I'd appreciate if you point out if there is anything you would get differently or approach modding this car in a different way.

 

[KokomoGST]

I'm not sure but I think the Catco hi-flow converter might be one of those test pipes with catalyst around it... that makes it pretty much worthless to help you pass emissions.

You don't want to put in an AEM short ram if you are going to autoX competitively. You WILL be classed unfairly against overdog cars. Just get a friggin catback made for you and don't bother with the silly hi-flow. Hondaforums are right on the basic I/E/H formula... but anytime you want to autoX competitively, classing becomes an issue. You'll have fun enough with a drop-in K&N filter, catback, some nice Koni shocks, and race tires.

I recall there's someone on ATOT with an H22A powered Accord in the same generation shell. That's REALLY what you need to get some real power.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Yeah, I'd like to do an engine swap but I don't have tools or money, but I hear your points. I don't think I'm going to autox competitively, probably just during practice sessions where we can go do some runs for fun or something. Thanks for advice on catback! 😀

 

[PowerMac4Ever]

My advice is to not waste $$ on a slow car.

 

[notfred]

Sell it and buy a car that's faster/handles better. It's an Accord. I know you want to do something for cheap, but you really haven't got much to work with. If you want to do Auto-X, buy an old Miata or 280Z or something.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

I'd like to do that, but this is the car my dad gave me, he's had it for 14 years now, so he won't part with it and I don't have the money to buy a new car. He's open and willing to pay for and help me out with some mods to the car because he didn't have to pay any money other than insurance. In my case, I'm stuck with the car you so I want to do whatever I can to make it a little more powerful

 

[OS]

the 4th gen accords were slow as ass, it's like a 17 second car stock, even in stick. There's not much hope for the stock engine.

handling wise, prospects are better, the accord chassis is heavily related to the prelude and it has double wishbone suspension on all 4 wheels. It'll still cost alot though to get all the necessary parts though (springs, struts, sways, etc.)

 

[RossMAN]

Rice it up with some stickers, that should easily add another 5HP!

 

[TwoBills]

Go with suspension mods first. The old man will get into the handling a lot more (and shell out the bucks a little easier) then he will if its got loud pipes. Now if was a 289 hi po.........ah, those were the days.

 

[thedarkwolf]

Forced induction or an engine swap is the only way your going to get any decent power out of it and then you would still have an accord. I"m souping up a caravan so I can't rag on you to much but atleast mine is turbo charged 🙂.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Thanks for the comments guys, I'm also doing this from a learning experience point of view because other than this, I probably won't get any work in the engine bay of cars

 

[NutBucket]

If you keep it NA get a Delta reground cam. They're under $100 w/ core and you'll see some decent gains. Exhausts, you get what you pay for. Best deal I've seen exhausts is a Tanabe setup for $350. That's what I put on my car. Short ram intake doesn't do a whole lot for you. You'd see similar gains cutting the bottom out of your stock air box. As for a header, if you car isn't an EX just head to a salvage yard and get an EX/SE header; its as good as anything from DC and will be dirt cheap. Catco makes decent cats. Check out Carsound and Random Technologies as well. These are all real cats. And yes, doing suspension costs money. Seeing as you want to auto-x get yourself a set of aftermarket sway bars. I know you can get both front and rear from Suspension Techniques for about $230 (have these as well). I recall reading somewhere that for auto-x you're better off with the stock front bar and upgraded read. For spings/shocks you should be able to get a nice combo for about $500-$600 and that's with adjustable shocks (not Koni Yellows tho, they're much more expensive). Uhm, that's what comes to mind now and I don't feel like writing more anyway. You can check out my sig for pics tho they're a tad out of date now. Hope this helps

 

[alembic5]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
Go with suspension mods first. The old man will get into the handling a lot more (and shell out the bucks a little easier) then he will if its got loud pipes. Now if was a 289 hi po.........ah, those were the days.

Now you're talking! K-code, 271 HP stock... what a great little motor! I had an A-code '65 coupe (mustang, for those who aren't familiar...) Man do I miss that car. Have a '69 convertible now. Great car, but not as fun as that '65. I also have an '87 prelude I bought for $200. Up to 253,000 miles and going strong!