YACT - how many more miles off these tires?

[RagingBITCH]

http://www.onlyprofile.com/tires1.jpg
http://www.onlyprofile.com/tires2.jpg
http://www.onlyprofile.com/tires3.jpg
http://www.onlyprofile.com/tires4.jpg


Basically the tires on my current Accord are pretty much going down the drain - I hydro'ed on the highway last week and almost hit an 18 and a concrete barrier, so I'm very concerned about them at the moment. (I expect another 2, maybe 3 months of life out of them)

This guy is selling his alloy wheels + tires for $200 and thought I might buy them, was curious how many more miles do you think I can get out of them. There are two sets - the good set has no more than 2k miles on them, the more worn out set has about 7k. Not too concerned about the worn out set - just throw them on the back and be done with it. (I'm running on steel wheels + hubcaps, this would make a nice upgrade - they're stock alloys) Just wondering in your opinion how long the better set would last. I don't run my car hard at all anymore.

Thanks!

EDIT: or how much should I offer? Includes 4 16" alloy wheels as well.

 

[OS]

they actually look like they can go another 10K+ miles from what I can see. The tread is still deep on some of the pictures.

If you have problems hydroplaning, have you checked the tire pressure with a real gauge recently?

EDIT, only the last one might be bad as i can see.

 

[RagingBITCH]

Sup James, long time no talk, funny you're the first to reply. Those are EX wheels, I've been looking forever for a set of those.

Tirepressure is fine, I checked it the other week and refilled the tires. The tires have always sucked on the Accord - I've always had grip problems in the rain even brand new. So I can't blame it entirely on the tires needing replacement, that and that highway is kind of slick to begin with, and I was probably driving too fast for my own good.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: RagingBITCH
Sup James, long time no talk, funny you're the first to reply. Those are EX wheels, I've been looking forever for a set of those.

Tirepressure is fine, I checked it the other week and refilled the tires. The tires have always sucked on the Accord - I've always had grip problems in the rain even brand new. So I can't blame it entirely on the tires needing replacement, that and that highway is kind of slick to begin with, and I was probably driving too fast for my own good.

NP bro, even if you get EX wheels, the stock tires on them are probably the same michelin energys anyways. I've never really had problems when wet on the energys, but it doesn't downpour in socal and I always take it real easy in rain.

Also, I think you want to put the good set on the rear actually, all the tire places I've been to do this and they say it's because you don't want the back end of the car to lose traction first, but I've never looked into the theory indepth.

 

[Krazefinn]

Usually front wd the better tires on front, as they clear the road for the usually "following" rear tires. Plus, more total mileage from all four that way, the rears obviously don steer and power like the fronts do. They are just along for the ride.

You DONT want your steeering/power tires hydroplaning first...then the rears dont matter.

Not to mention frontd also do 70% braking duties also.

 

[tfinch2]

About 42 more...

 

[RagingBITCH]

Originally posted by: Krazefinn
Usually front wd the better tires on front, as they clear the road for the usually "following" rear tires. Plus, more total mileage from all four that way, the rears obviously don steer and power like the fronts do. They are just along for the ride.

You DONT want your steeering/power tires hydroplaning first...then the rears dont matter.

Not to mention frontd also do 70% braking duties also.

Yea that's what I hear, I'd assume you put the good ones up front.

James - the guy said the newer ones aren't Michelin energy's. I've never had good luck with Michelins to be honest.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Krazefinn
Usually front wd the better tires on front, as they clear the road for the usually "following" rear tires. Plus, more total mileage from all four that way, the rears obviously don steer and power like the fronts do. They are just along for the ride.

You DONT want your steeering/power tires hydroplaning first...then the rears dont matter.

Not to mention frontd also do 70% braking duties also.

read this

"Let's say you drive a Nissan Altima and you notice your rear tires have 50 percent of their tread left, but the front tires are worn and need to be replaced. You go to your local tire shop, and they happily pull the fronts off and fit a set of brand new ones in their place. Is there anything wrong with this scenario? It seems logical, even the safe way to go, right?



Michelin's Mac DeMere gives the author a few last-minute tips.
We were given the keys to two identical Altimas, one with new tires on the front and half-worn tires on the rear and the other car with just the opposite front/rear setup. On a half-mile polished-concrete, wet skidpad, we approached 55 mph in the car with worn front tires. The only hint of a problem was that the steering would occasionally get light, and we found ourselves intuitively slowing down to avoid understeer (running wide of a turn).

Switching to the car with the new front/worn rears (as the tire shop suggested), we again approached 55 mph. Suddenly, the car snapped its tail out, and we were beyond oversteer and well into an off-pavement excursion. We were no longer drivers, but passengers in a car spinning out of control. We tried a second time. Even when anticipating the moment the car would break loose, there was no time to correct for the slide because it happened so fast. By the third attempt, we finally learned how to regain control of the car.

The problem is that, in reality, you don't get three chances to avoid an accident. Next time you buy two new tires, insist that they go on the rear, not the front of your car. It doesn't matter if it's an all-, front-, or rear-wheel-drive car: Always put the fresh ones on the back."

 

[mrchan]

For $200 you can't go wrong.

 

[Mermaidman]

Originally posted by: RagingBITCH

Originally posted by: Krazefinn
Usually front wd the better tires on front, as they clear the road for the usually "following" rear tires. Plus, more total mileage from all four that way, the rears obviously don steer and power like the fronts do. They are just along for the ride.

You DONT want your steeering/power tires hydroplaning first...then the rears dont matter.

Not to mention frontd also do 70% braking duties also.

Yea that's what I hear, I'd assume you put the good ones up front.

James - the guy said the newer ones aren't Michelin energy's. I've never had good luck with Michelins to be honest.

According to Tires.com, new tires go on the back!
READ THIS

 

[RagingBITCH]

huh never heard that before. My car is setup like that now - newer tires on the front. Maybe thats why I hydro-ed.

 

[middlehead]

Originally posted by: Mermaidman

Originally posted by: RagingBITCH

Originally posted by: Krazefinn
Usually front wd the better tires on front, as they clear the road for the usually "following" rear tires. Plus, more total mileage from all four that way, the rears obviously don steer and power like the fronts do. They are just along for the ride.

You DONT want your steeering/power tires hydroplaning first...then the rears dont matter.

Not to mention frontd also do 70% braking duties also.

Yea that's what I hear, I'd assume you put the good ones up front.

James - the guy said the newer ones aren't Michelin energy's. I've never had good luck with Michelins to be honest.

According to Tires.com, new tires go on the back!
READ THIS

Makes sense to me; the front tires have the weight of the engine keeping them grounded, but the rear tires are going to need every advantage they can get.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: mrchan
For $200 you can't go wrong.

Bingo.

 

[Sukhoi]

Again, better tires on the rear.

 

[Budmantom]

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: mrchan
For $200 you can't go wrong.

Bingo.

I spent $200 for new tires on my Accord.

As far as those tires go look at the "wear bar" in the tread.


Tom

 

[Krazefinn]

I'm not gonna argue motortrend (however that test is tenuous and solitary, requires more testing to be definitive), however that is not what my experience indicates. A FWD car has NEVER snapped into oversteer on me, either straight line or around sweepers, wet or dry, SHORT of ebrake application. I learned to drive on frozen lakes with all kinds of cars, fiats, vw's, citroens, renault, as well as the gamut front eng rear drive american iron. I've always felt that the front tires need to be BETTER because first, they encounter adverse conditions like water, ice, nail, pothole etc, ans secondly since they are responsible for most of the control. For instance, a blow out in front can cause immediate directional stability loss, PLUS if inexperienced driver slams on brakes or downshifts/lifts throttle too fast, you have NO directional or braking control. A blown rear tire on the other hand, since it does have less weight, is less likely to impact stability, is NOT going to suddenly jerk the steering out of your hands, and since only does 25-30% braking, applied improperly is not as drastic.

You pay your money, you take yopur choice. I suppose if ione drove around a wet skidpad all day, it might work that way, but that does not reflect the other 99% of driving conditions. And as far as economy (esp if NOT AGGRESSIVE DRIVER pushing g-forces on wet skidpad while speeding) the better ones on front will give you more even tire wear and last longer overall. And in most conditions, since the rears follow in tracks of front, the rears will have less water to contend with.

Just my .02 pence worth, anecdotal I admit, but backed up by some 4 decades of driving literally hundreds of cars in all conditions. I've never had an accident, I do drive "hard" and love drifting/flat-trackin, also own some serious muscle (with z rated tires for those 150mph plus jaunts, 69 SS 396 chevelle, V84wd jeep, new beetle 'vert, Ford ranger pu, 67 Elky 327). I rotate my own tires, check the alignments, use good tires and shiocks/struts , but I also believe in using every bit of tire's rubber safely. The vw for instance has just that condition, with well wwrn rears and "ggod" fronts, and NO problems on the wet FL roads for my teenage driver either, at about 40k. probably have another 10-15k left on em too..

 

[RagingBITCH]

Damn I wonder if I lowballed him by asking $175 then. lol. By wear bars what are we talking about exactly? Sorry, I'm tire illiterate. :

In terms of the tires - I really am curious which way it's better. In terms of common sense it seems like the new tires would def go on the front, but from reading it looks like rear is the way to go.

 

[Krazefinn]

Wear bars are rubber bars cast into all DOT tires, that will become exposed accross the tread blocks as contiguos strips of rubber, at which point you repalce. the remainimg tread is below limits...running your finger radially around the tire in a groove you should be able to feel and see them.

Looking at your one [picture that might show them, I dont see any wear bars. besure the tires havent been regrooved deeeper....NOT legal for highway use...

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: Budmantom

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: mrchan
For $200 you can't go wrong.

Bingo.

I spent $200 for new tires on my Accord.

As far as those tires go look at the "wear bar" in the tread.


Tom

$200 for a set of factory alloys, which it seems the OP wants anyway, makes it worthwhile. The tires appear to be serviceable for at least another 5-7k.

Where do you get decently sized name brand tires for $200? (assuming you paid $200 installed).