The water pump has begun leaking and instead of having the mechanic do it for $300, I was considering doing it myself for about ~$40 for parts. I have the Haynes manual and it seems pretty straight forward, just labor intensive. Anyone give any advice if they have done this before? I have change the radiator, drive belts, alternator, and battery before in previous cars, but that's the extent of my previous home mechanic experience.
-
We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.
YACT: How hard is it to change a water pump in a car?
- Thread starter alm99
- Start date
mcvickj
Diamond Member
This is what ALLDATA says you have to do to replace the water pump.
1. Drain coolant.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove right wheel assembly, then inner wheelwell splash shield.
4. Remove A/C compressor attaching bolts, then position aside.
5. Place one inch wood block between crankshaft and water pump pulley, then remove water pump bolts and allow pulley to hang on pump hub.
6. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then remove water pump and discard gasket.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten water pump bolts to specifications in crossing pattern.
1. Drain coolant.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove right wheel assembly, then inner wheelwell splash shield.
4. Remove A/C compressor attaching bolts, then position aside.
5. Place one inch wood block between crankshaft and water pump pulley, then remove water pump bolts and allow pulley to hang on pump hub.
6. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then remove water pump and discard gasket.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten water pump bolts to specifications in crossing pattern.
It's not really too difficult, but if you've never done it before, and you've never done it before, it'll probably take a little longer than you expected.
I've changed a water pump on a '90 mustang in two hours in a parking lot, with just a set of hand tools, so it's not too bad if you know what you're doing. Even if you don't know what you're doing, it'll take an extra hour or two, but you should be fine. It's not a very hard job, just make sure nothing leaks when you're done.
I've changed a water pump on a '90 mustang in two hours in a parking lot, with just a set of hand tools, so it's not too bad if you know what you're doing. Even if you don't know what you're doing, it'll take an extra hour or two, but you should be fine. It's not a very hard job, just make sure nothing leaks when you're done.
They arn't that hard to change at all. Although I never done one on a saturn and I can't think of it's location off the top of my head and to whether or not the timing belt drives it like most japaneese cars or whether the drive belt does.
It's a longer pocess and more of a pain if it is the former but either one isn't all that complicated. Just make sure the gasket seals good and you don't have a a large air buble in the system when your done. There should be a pressure release in the coolant system at the highest most point. There should be a sticker uder you hood if it's still visable with the location. After your done if it apears coolant isn't cycling through remove the bolt in that with the car running and it should let the air out of the system.
I've always seen it say to remove all the coolant at the time you replace the pump, but it's not required unless the coolant is old and needs to be changed. Once you crack off the pump what coolant is around it will dain out on it's own, just have something under the work area to catch it.
Hope all goes smoothly.
It's a longer pocess and more of a pain if it is the former but either one isn't all that complicated. Just make sure the gasket seals good and you don't have a a large air buble in the system when your done. There should be a pressure release in the coolant system at the highest most point. There should be a sticker uder you hood if it's still visable with the location. After your done if it apears coolant isn't cycling through remove the bolt in that with the car running and it should let the air out of the system.
I've always seen it say to remove all the coolant at the time you replace the pump, but it's not required unless the coolant is old and needs to be changed. Once you crack off the pump what coolant is around it will dain out on it's own, just have something under the work area to catch it.
Hope all goes smoothly.
alkemyst
No Lifer
The 96 Saturn I know (http://30moons.com) was designed for ease of maintenance as a primary goal.
The water pump isn't terrible, however; I was doing just a header (should be 30-60mins easy) and those A/C compressor bracket bolts literally rounded right off with even a 6 point socket because they either applied the wrong kind of treadlock or didn't use anti-seize. Took like 8 hours to get (10 I think) bolts out.
I did a lot to my Saturn and that was the only real clusterf..k. Between the Chiltons and the Haynes you have a pretty decent description of a job. The factory manual is $120 new and much cheaper on ebay.
also autozone.com has how to's for each car, not sure if they are there for yours but another set of guidelines is always better.
The water pump isn't terrible, however; I was doing just a header (should be 30-60mins easy) and those A/C compressor bracket bolts literally rounded right off with even a 6 point socket because they either applied the wrong kind of treadlock or didn't use anti-seize. Took like 8 hours to get (10 I think) bolts out.
I did a lot to my Saturn and that was the only real clusterf..k. Between the Chiltons and the Haynes you have a pretty decent description of a job. The factory manual is $120 new and much cheaper on ebay.
also autozone.com has how to's for each car, not sure if they are there for yours but another set of guidelines is always better.
Pepsi90919
Lifer
this is not a 90 mustang. this is a 96 saturn.
alkemyst
No Lifer
Room Temperature Vulcanizing sealant....permatex is your friend for this silicone.
http://www.permatex.com/
I use the Ultra Copper...it's good for the cool stuff and the hot stuff and O2 sensor safe.
alkemyst
No Lifer
I am willing to bet the tools needed are a 10mm wrench or socket, a lug wrench, a flat screwdriver or diagonal cutters (for the inner fender rivets), and the afforementioned block of wood....possibly a 14mm or 16mm wrench/socket for hte water pump pulley (I forget if it's a one nut or four nut setup).
There are many varieties that are designed to work at different temps. There are 2 I swear by; the chrystler grey RTV, it bonds even better in the presence of oils so you don't have to be as picky, also the grey ford RTV that actually comes in differnt tube you need a caulking gun for it.
Of the ones I've tried these far surpass the other but they do cost a bit more.
alkemyst
No Lifer
I have a very very light seep at the front of my oil pan, looks like someone shot some grey rtv in there but it's still seeping (about 2 weeks to form a wet finger tip worth of oil...so very minor)....my front crankshaft seal was leaking terribly though so I am still not sure if it's not residue coming down via gravity...
I don't want to reseal the whole pan as it requires lifting the engine 🙁.
alkemyst
No Lifer
[didn't get the sarcasm]If you would have posted you were a chick, you'd have gotten more help :beer:[/didn't get the sarcasm]
Cool you have tools though AND not just a tool collector 🙂 I have seen two "homeowner's" with total tool cabinets (like the 2000+ tool variety, all still brand new after 2-3 years) and they still take cars in for service and call plumber's when the garbage disposal stops working 😕
I made a joke to my wife once that I bet I could steal the tools and it'd be at least a year before they noticed and then they'd think they must have not bought them after all....got to love people with more money than brains though.
TRENDING THREADS
-
Discussion Zen 5 Speculation (EPYC Turin and Strix Point/Granite Ridge - Ryzen 9000)- Started by DisEnchantment
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel Meteor, Arrow, Lunar & Panther Lakes + WCL Discussion Threads
- Started by Tigerick
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel current and future Lakes & Rapids thread- Started by TheF34RChannel
- Replies: 24K
-
-
