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YACT: fcuking battery

sash1

sash1

Diamond Member
My battery keeps dying! It all started about a week ago. I noticed my lights weren't turning off automatically all the time, like they're supposed to. My bro had the same problem when he used the car. So I brought it into VIP and they checked it. The battery was fine, but the problem was the altenator, which we had replaced. Anyways, the lights still don't turn off automatically, but the battery is fine.

I check the lights every time I get out of the car (when I get to school), and remember to turn them off if they are still on. Anyways, the battery has died three times in the past week. It died after school and my friend jumped it. I let it run for :30, but it died again that night. Got jumped. Then it died today after school.

I know for a fact that I didn't leave the lights of any of these times. But why else would a perfectly fine battery keep dying like this? SHould I get it replaced anyways (it's still under warranty)? Or is there maybe some other electrical problem that I should get checked out?

Oh, and it's a '92 Camry with 208,000 miles 😛 worn in...

Thanks,

`K
 
Corroded terminals (Either on the battery, on the cables, or on the other end of the cables)

Edit: Ghetto way to do this is to take a scrubbing pad and cut it into strips and use those. 'Professionals' buy 'stuff' that eats away the corrosion. I think they don't have a clue WTF they're doing, ghetto engineering is so much cheaper and equally effective
 
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Corroded terminals (Either on the battery, on the cables, or on the other end of the cables)

Edit: Ghetto way to do this is to take a scrubbing pad and cut it into strips and use those. 'Professionals' buy 'stuff' that eats away the corrosion. I think they don't have a clue WTF they're doing, ghetto engineering is so much cheaper and equally effective
Click to expand...

Another suggestion from the Ghetto Engineering Department:

Disconnect the cables from the battery, then dump some baking soda on the terminals and pour water over it. This will cause the baking soda to dissolve the corrosion off the terminals. You can then just rinse the terminals off and wipe them dry.
 
If the lights are not turning off automatically when they should, there could be something else being left on that you don't see. Check to see if there's anything else that could be running while the car is off. For example, trunk light due to a bad switch.
I'd still lean toward a bad alternator. Alot of alternators are remanufactured and are sometimes bad right out the box.
 
When your battery dies completely, jump starting will start the vehicle and alternator will provide enough power to keep the car running, but it will take HOURS to charge fully.

Most people don't realize this and think their battery is bad, because their car won't start a few hours later after getting a jump start and driving around for 15min.



I learned this the hard way.

I was going to get some food w/ a friend. My battery was dead. I jump started and got it running, but after we ate, we weren't able to start it and had to get a jump start again.

You need to connect the battery to an AC charger and let it fully charge.

 
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
'Professionals' buy 'stuff' that eats away the corrosion. I think they don't have a clue WTF they're doing, ghetto engineering is so much cheaper and equally effective
Click to expand...

Um, coca cola works very well on corrosion.

I replaced my battery today..ouch...$110.00 Only got 5 years outta that one!!

Gravity
 
Originally posted by: pillage2001
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: pillage2001
Originally posted by: Nocturnal
Altenator going bad.
Click to expand...

50 dollars on this.
Click to expand...

but the problem was the altenator, which we had replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Oh crap......where do I send the money to?
Click to expand...
my paypal account, if you would... you can PM me for details 😛
Originally posted by: RayH
If the lights are not turning off automatically when they should, there could be something else being left on that you don't see. Check to see if there's anything else that could be running while the car is off. For example, trunk light due to a bad switch.
I'd still lean toward a bad alternator. Alot of alternators are remanufactured and are sometimes bad right out the box.
Click to expand...
Guess I'll go back to VIP tomorrow...

Thanks,

`K
 
If the alt & batt are known to be good.

Make sure anything that can put a load on the battery is off, dome lite, trunk and under hood lite. The only thing that will be "on" will be the clock & comp for the engine.

Disconnect the ground cable to the batt and put a low wattage test lite in series between the batt post and cable. If it lights up, there is a serious draw on the batt.

Have someone remove the fuses one at a time, remove, reinstall, remove, etc.
When the light goes out you have located the circuit that is the culprit.

You can do this first or after the fuse deal.

If the lite bulb is still on disconnect the hot wire at the alternator, if it goes out a diode is bad and permitting current to pass though to ground.

If you are lucky the fuse that services the auto head lite off circuit probably serves the radio & clock, only if that is the case, leave it out. Your owners manual should indicate this.

In your part of the world cold starts DEMAND no Mickey Mouse battery cable ends, what is it? VxA=watts. Bad cables knock the hell out of volts.


:gift:
 
Or just take it into a small shop and ask to have "parasitic load" tested. Shouldn't cost you more than $10.
 
Originally posted by: Gravity
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
'Professionals' buy 'stuff' that eats away the corrosion. I think they don't have a clue WTF they're doing, ghetto engineering is so much cheaper and equally effective
Click to expand...

Um, coca cola works very well on corrosion.

I replaced my battery today..ouch...$110.00 Only got 5 years outta that one!!

Gravity
Click to expand...



Who the hell pays $110 for a battery? I buy the $45 batteries at AutoZone and they're good for 3 or 4 years, plus they check your charging system for free.
 
consumers just did a roundup on car batteries and gave raves for diehards and they did not like walmart's at all
 
Funny, I've heard nothing but good things about Walmart (Everstart) batteries. Someone told me, today in fact, that they work in the auto battery industry and that the Wal Mart, Interstate, and Sears (Diehard) are all made on the same line. Just have a different case, sticker, and warranty. They're all three made by Johnson Controls.

Who buys $110 batteries? Many people. Actually a lot of people pay $150 for Optima batteries at Auto Zone, etc, for several different reasons. I was thinking of getting one (but for cheap online of course).
 
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