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YACT: Exhaust -- crush bent or mandrel bent

jlee

jlee

Lifer
Hey all..

I think I have a slight exhaust leak somewhere, and I want to replace it with a 2.25" catback w/performance muffler...I was quoted $220-ish for the whole thing, but I'm pretty sure that's crush bent piping. I know mandrel bent is better, but is it really worth spending that much extra? It's only a n/a Corolla...if I had a turbo, I'd go with mandrel bent -- but I'm just looking to make it a little more fun to drive (cold air intake & exhaust).

Also..any suggestions on a performance muffler that 1) won't break the bank, and 2) (possibly more important) won't sound too ricey? I don't want a watermelon launcher dragging from the back of my car, if you catch my drift. 🙂
 
For $220 seems to me you should be able to get mandrel. Anyway, try out a Walker Turboflow. Yes yes, I know the name is deceiving but it sounds pretty good even on my friend's stock 1.6L Pulsar. Sounds even better on my other friend's Volvo Turbo but, well..😉
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
For $220 seems to me you should be able to get mandrel. Anyway, try out a Walker Turboflow. Yes yes, I know the name is deceiving but it sounds pretty good even on my friend's stock 1.6L Pulsar. Sounds even better on my other friend's Volvo Turbo but, well..😉
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$220 for mandrel w/muffler? If so, that's doable.

Walker Turboflow..I'll take a look, thanks 🙂

Edit: Where exactly would I go for mandrel bent exhaust? Do I have to find what parts I need and then order them, and have a shop weld it, or..?
 
that price is too cheap for a mandrel bent cat-back..especially for a corolla (ie low volume sales in exhausts)
a mandrel bent axle back should cost around $150..so this is looking more like a crush bent thing.

catback mandrel bent = $400-600
 
Unless I spend way too much money on a custom turbocharger, there's no way I'm spending $400+ on an exhaust system..lol

Do you think the performance difference would even be noticable? I mean...I'm only at 120hp/120tq..not exactly a restricted V8 sitting here. 😛
 
Goto a muffler shop and have them bend on up for you. If you want stainless I would guess cat-back would be in the neighborhood of $300 w/ muffler.
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
Goto a muffler shop and have them bend on up for you. If you want stainless I would guess cat-back would be in the neighborhood of $300 w/ muffler.
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I was at a muffler shop..didn't specify mandrel bent, though. I was at another place last week, and he said he bends his own piping & didn't have mandrel equipment..I think he said nobody does in Gainesville, but I'm not positive. I guess I'll give this place a call again tomorrow morning.
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
Goto a muffler shop and have them bend one up for you.
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Right. The mandrel-bent tubing wouldn't be worth the extra cost for your application.
 
Originally posted by: JC
Originally posted by: NutBucket
Goto a muffler shop and have them bend one up for you.
Click to expand...


Right. The mandrel-bent tubing wouldn't be worth the extra cost for your application.
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Ah..ok --- thought he meant mandrel bent...

$220 w/muffler sound okay? They had Magnaflow and Ractive..any other suggestions on non-ricey mufflers? I know it's still going to sound like a 4cyl..but I don't want an 8" fartcan.

The guy at the muffler shop (was recommended by a friend of mine who has a turbocharged Sentra running high 13s..so I think he's alright) said most of the 'bumblebee' type noise was from people removing their cat..which I won't be doing..so maybe it won't be as bad as I hope. 🙂
 
Originally posted by: eagle
Hah sorry man I don't think your Corolla is gonna be fast with any reasonable amount of money.
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but I'm just looking to make it a little more fun to drive (cold air intake & exhaust).
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Where did I say I was going to make it "fast"? Go thread crap somewhere else.
 
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
You won't know the difference unless you crawl under your car to admire it alot.
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Eh..haven't been under there yet..lol

Crush bent it is, then. Hopefully by this week, I'll have it in...now to avoid being called a ricer 🙁
 
Look into what metal it is more than anything, that'll let you know how long it will last.

Friend's 650HP 377==exhaust makes a difference
Brother in law's friend's 925HP 357==exhaust makes a signifigant difference
Brother in law's 250-300HP 350==barely any difference, if any at all


They're all the same basic block, (chevy SB) all naturally aspirated, all carburated, but unless you're in a wild setup the exhaust won't do much for performance other than make it sound better/worse.
(I think I lost 1-2 HP when I changed out my muffler for a freer flowing one, but the tone was worth it)
 
From what I understand, I may lose a little low-end torque, but mid-high end should improve a little. I'll probably still run high 16s or low 17s, but whatever 😛
 
Originally posted by: CadetLee
Originally posted by: JC
Originally posted by: NutBucket
Goto a muffler shop and have them bend one up for you.
Click to expand...


Right. The mandrel-bent tubing wouldn't be worth the extra cost for your application.
Click to expand...

Ah..ok --- thought he meant mandrel bent...

$220 w/muffler sound okay? They had Magnaflow and Ractive..any other suggestions on non-ricey mufflers? I know it's still going to sound like a 4cyl..but I don't want an 8" fartcan.

The guy at the muffler shop (was recommended by a friend of mine who has a turbocharged Sentra running high 13s..so I think he's alright) said most of the 'bumblebee' type noise was from people removing their cat..which I won't be doing..so maybe it won't be as bad as I hope. 🙂
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magnaflow. such a nice, lower, mellow tone 🙂

i've got a custom magnaflow system on my truck and it's awsome. my buddy had one on his 00' tiburan and it sounded great.
 
Well, looks like I'm going with 2.25" crush-bent catback and a Magnaflow muffler..thanks guys!

I'll post pics/video/sound/whatever when it's installed..but first a question:

With a cold air intake, exhaust & ~2-2.4" drop (Tein springs & KYB GR2 struts -- stock handling is way too loose), will I be labeled a ricer? No stickers..and I have the factory spoiler, not an aluminum solar panel.
 
Nah... just don't go around revving at people and acting like a dumbass 😛 You should AutoX your car so you can actually take advantage of your mods.
 
I haven't bought the springs yet, but I've been told they're among the best I can get for handling. I could go with Eibachs at ~1.5" drop..

I'd love to autox..but I haven't found anywhere local. 🙁
 
Originally posted by: Rent
Nah... just don't go around revving at people and acting like a dumbass 😛 You should AutoX your car so you can actually take advantage of your mods.
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I've seen autox's, it was next to worthless.

If you're going to race your car, go to a roadcourse. Driving around cones in a parking lot just isn't any fun for me. Most of the time you don't even go beyond second gear.
 
Try some nice struts like adjustable konis and a thicker anti-roll bar before you drop it, dropping it changes so much stuff and costs alot to do right....
 
Originally posted by: Soybomb
Try some nice struts like adjustable konis and a thicker anti-roll bar before you drop it, dropping it changes so much stuff and costs alot to do right....
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The drop comes with the spring setup -- Eibach/Tein springs and Tokico/KYB struts are usually recommended at the forum I'm on. I don't think I'll get any decent handling by keeping the stock springs.

I'm not sure what you're referring to with "anti-roll bar" -- I do have a strut bar (between the front strut towers) which wasn't stock, but I hear stiffening the rear sway bar in my car can cause unpredictable oversteer without warning.
 
Originally posted by: Marshallj
Originally posted by: Rent
Nah... just don't go around revving at people and acting like a dumbass 😛 You should AutoX your car so you can actually take advantage of your mods.
Click to expand...

I've seen autox's, it was next to worthless.

If you're going to race your car, go to a roadcourse. Driving around cones in a parking lot just isn't any fun for me. Most of the time you don't even go beyond second gear.
Click to expand...

Well, I'd say all, not most. If you are getting out of 2nd gear on an Auto-X course, you are probably doing something wrong. And it's not worthless, it teaches you proper driving technique.
 
Originally posted by: CadetLee
Originally posted by: Soybomb
Try some nice struts like adjustable konis and a thicker anti-roll bar before you drop it, dropping it changes so much stuff and costs alot to do right....
Click to expand...

The drop comes with the spring setup -- Eibach/Tein springs and Tokico/KYB struts are usually recommended at the forum I'm on. I don't think I'll get any decent handling by keeping the stock springs.

I'm not sure what you're referring to with "anti-roll bar" -- I do have a strut bar (between the front strut towers) which wasn't stock, but I hear stiffening the rear sway bar in my car can cause unpredictable oversteer without warning.
Click to expand...

anti-roll bar = sway bar
 
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