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YACT: Dealer found the problem.. now what to do..

The Stigenator

The Stigenator

Lifer
So dealer found the problem for my bad starts, and rough running.

I got no compression on cylinder 4 when warm - valve is stuck. Recommended repair:

replace valve guides, head and gaskets and stuff - $2380

or

replace engine with remanufacturered engine (3/75000mi warrenty) for $4117


now thats the dealer, i can probably take it to a private mechanic and get it done cheaper. Question is, are there otehr things i can do. Apparently this valve sticking is an issue with the old 1.9L escort engine but the 2.0 has it too.

I was wondering what is sticking? is the spring failed, is there goo on the spring? i am wondering on the short run running some engine oil cleaner (cleans out the crud in the engine might help or not? The reason being i know the engine oil cleaner will run through teh valve section so it might clean the crud.. the negative point is that i might have added leaks on a car that has 130K.

So what should i do?

any ideas?
 
its a ford focus..

my mechanic was suggesting oil additive that will help lessen teh sticky valve.

I dont know if what i should add then? anything that you can suggest? Something that will take out the gunk out of the engine?

 
An oil additive may help, (my father has sugested Marvel Mystery Oil or Berryman's Chemtool for things like that but i have no idea how well either would work). But a valve job or head replacement is the only thing that will truly fix it.
 
In your OP you said that he wants to replace the head? Why would they need to do that when they could just lift off the existing one and replace the valve and do other stuff such as replace the head gasket and such? I doubt adding anything in the oil or switching oil will do anything as if any of the valve guides are worn it won't matter.
 
Get a re-manufactured head and throw it on yourself and it will cost under $1000. Get a used head out of the junk yard and it will be even less. All depends on how long you intend to keep the car.
 
Go to a Chevy dealer and get a can of Top Engine Cleaner run it through according to the directions (your neighbors will love you....lotsa smoke🙂). Then change the oil and throw some Slick 50 in with the oil.

You've got a maybe a 10% chance, but it'll only cost $35.
 
Originally posted by: TheGoodGuy

replace valve guides, head and gaskets and stuff - $2380
or
replace engine with remanufacturered engine (3/75000mi warrenty) for $4117
Click to expand...


That is the dealer's way of telling you to go away, they don't want to bother with it. As you said, getting this work done should cost alot less. Assuming a reasonable price on a remanufactured engine, ~2k, then you need to evaluate the cost of fixing this car vs getting a different one. First, do you like this car when it runs well? If not, it might be time to replace it, though that will likely cost more than the fix. Is there any other problem looming that you are aware of? If so, add that into the cost of keeping this one.
 
Originally posted by: Squisher
Go to a Chevy dealer and get a can of Top Engine Cleaner run it through according to the directions (your neighbors will love you....lotsa smoke🙂).
Click to expand...

This isn't a bad idea. If you think its just "sticking" then I would try the top engine cleaner. It works great at cleaning valves. The top engine clear should be less than ten bucks.

Or you can probably pick up a rebuilt cylinder head at a parts store for roughly 400 bucks.
 
It's been said a few times, but drop the car and move on. At this point it isn't worth spending $2k-$4k on it, if it were only around 50k miles then it'd be a different story. If you got any mechanic buddies, sell it to them, let them fix and resell it, and go get something better (Toyota, Honda, anything not made by an American company).
 
Try to find a can of SeaFoam at your nearest Pep Boy's or Advance Auto or whatever. Run that through a vacuum line that feeds your intake manifold (but try to keep the liquid away from your throttle body)...do this slowly till the engine dies on its own. Go make a sammich and let the car sit for half an hour or so, come back out and re-start the car (yes, this may be a hard thing to do). Run it up to about 3000RPM for about 15 seconds and then just let the car idle till no more smoke comes out. Add half the remainder of the seafoam to your fuel tank and pour the other half in your oil. PLEASE remember to change your oil soon (within 500 miles or so) or bad things could happen.

This WILL clean ****** up but it may not cure your valve issue. Good starting point and is NOT snake-oil as is Slick 50.
 
well the car runs fine otherwise.. i like the car and want to keep it for a while.. so i figure if the car gets the heads done it should run quite a while.. its got new tires, brakes are good, the suspension needs work but whatever.. the clutch would replacing at some point.. but overall the car runs good.

I think i might want to just get it fixed if i get a proper quote on the car fixing.
 
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