YACT cheapest place to buy oil????

[isekii]

you guys are getting ripped off on the filter.

I'm paying 4.99 for my filter. ( Denso made in Japan )

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Eli

Also remember that your air filter is the first line of defense. If your air filter isn't doing its job, the burden gets put on the oil filter.

So you're one step ahead if you use a high quality air filter(NOT K&N).

LOL, I've always wondered how much damage using an intake causes cars. I knew a guy who had an CAI w/ K&N and he says the inside of his intake was all grimey after just a year. :Q

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: flyfish

Mobil 1 is a quality synthetic oil, although there are more shear stable oils out there. Mobil 1 oil is on the thin side for their 5w30 and 10w30 oils, having about a 10.1 cSt at 100 celcius; it is within range of being a 30wt, but at the thin side, and it does shear thinner as it wears. Amsoil and redline oils have been shown to be more shear stable than Mobil 1, as well as Castrol's "German Syntec" 0w30 (on the newer red-labled bottles of 0w30 form castrol, it will say made in germany on the back of the bottle; this is perhaps the best oil castrol has retailed in the states, though it is somewhat tricky to find).

The consensus is that Mobil has updated their formulation of their 5w30 and 10w30 oils. The latest VOA of M1 10w30 is at 10.47 cSt @ 100°C and yet another shows closer to 11 cSt. Mobil seems to be actually improving the oil with each new formulation.

I was just going by what Mobil has published on there website. Im sure there are variations from batch to batch, and VOAs seem to confirm this. Even still, German Castrol has been shown to be about a 12.1 cSt on VOA (a "thick" 30wt, close to being a 40wt), and more shear stable in the UOAs than Mobil. I will say that I wouldn't hesitate to use either oil, as they are both good oils, but if I were to chose Mobil, and climate permitted, I'd choose the 10w30 [over Mobil's 5w30] as it has been shown to be more shear stable than the 5w30 (less of a viscosity spread).

Addressing the oil filter issue from Eli: I agree with you, however, recent talk on BITOG in the filters section has brought up a point about does it matter what filter you actually use. People have said that on ~10k OCIs, one with a mid-filter (5k) change and one without, the UOA have shown to be similar to each other. Of course, this could be due to the design aspects of the engine. Good oil filters don't have to be the most expensive. And yes, I don't care as much for K&N filters as I used to; they flow more air, but at the expense of filtering. I would like to say that on a high-stress engine, such as one that is used for towing, or weekend racing, or on that is turbo charged, sythetic oil is the better route. Syn oil can stand up to heat much better than dino oil can.

And to isekki: Maybe or maybe not that we are geting ripped on our filters (I get my VW/Audi filters for about $9ea, wholesale), but the Mann/Mahle filters are designed with extended OCIs in mind, so we can use the filters longer than some other filters. Denso? You have a toyota? I hope its not the sludge prone V6.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

And to isekki: Maybe or maybe not that we are geting ripped on our filters (I get my VW/Audi filters for about $9ea, wholesale), but the Mann/Mahle filters are designed with extended OCIs in mind, so we can use the filters longer than some other filters. Denso? You have a toyota? I hope its not the sludge prone V6.

He has the IS300 with the famous toyota I6, NA version of the supra motor.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: OS

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

And to isekki: Maybe or maybe not that we are geting ripped on our filters (I get my VW/Audi filters for about $9ea, wholesale), but the Mann/Mahle filters are designed with extended OCIs in mind, so we can use the filters longer than some other filters. Denso? You have a toyota? I hope its not the sludge prone V6.

He has the IS300 with the famous toyota I6, NA version of the supra motor.

Ahh...good engine in that case. I havent't heard any sludge cases on toyota's I6 engine design. In any case, probably the best oem filter for the I6 would either be the YZZD1 or the 20004. This has recently been discussed on BITOG in the filters section. Link to toyota/denso filter discussion

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: flyfish

Mobil 1 is a quality synthetic oil, although there are more shear stable oils out there. Mobil 1 oil is on the thin side for their 5w30 and 10w30 oils, having about a 10.1 cSt at 100 celcius; it is within range of being a 30wt, but at the thin side, and it does shear thinner as it wears. Amsoil and redline oils have been shown to be more shear stable than Mobil 1, as well as Castrol's "German Syntec" 0w30 (on the newer red-labled bottles of 0w30 form castrol, it will say made in germany on the back of the bottle; this is perhaps the best oil castrol has retailed in the states, though it is somewhat tricky to find).

The consensus is that Mobil has updated their formulation of their 5w30 and 10w30 oils. The latest VOA of M1 10w30 is at 10.47 cSt @ 100°C and yet another shows closer to 11 cSt. Mobil seems to be actually improving the oil with each new formulation.

I was just going by what Mobil has published on there website. Im sure there are variations from batch to batch, and VOAs seem to confirm this. Even still, German Castrol has been shown to be about a 12.1 cSt on VOA (a "thick" 30wt, close to being a 40wt), and more shear stable in the UOAs than Mobil. I will say that I wouldn't hesitate to use either oil, as they are both good oils, but if I were to chose Mobil, and climate permitted, I'd choose the 10w30 [over Mobil's 5w30] as it has been shown to be more shear stable than the 5w30 (less of a viscosity spread).

Addressing the oil filter issue from Eli: I agree with you, however, recent talk on BITOG in the filters section has brought up a point about does it matter what filter you actually use. People have said that on ~10k OCIs, one with a mid-filter (5k) change and one without, the UOA have shown to be similar to each other. Of course, this could be due to the design aspects of the engine. Good oil filters don't have to be the most expensive. And yes, I don't care as much for K&N filters as I used to; they flow more air, but at the expense of filtering. I would like to say that on a high-stress engine, such as one that is used for towing, or weekend racing, or on that is turbo charged, sythetic oil is the better route. Syn oil can stand up to heat much better than dino oil can.

That's exactly what I meant though. Do some research and find the best oil filter you can use. Then go ahead and use the cheapest oil you feel comfortable running, because even the worst modern day conventional oils should be able to go 3,000 miles.

And I agree totally. Know your engine, and your setup. Don't just go for the cheapest oil, especially if you have an air cooled or turbocharged engine.

I you *really* want to know, the only way is to do oil analysis.

Edit: I wanted to say more...

but I've forgotten for now..

I'll probably find this thread in a little while and remember.....

 

[Walleye]

i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

 

[Walleye]

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

Is the exterior in good condition?

I'll buy it.

😀

Oh wait, is it an automatic?

 

[Walleye]

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

Is the exterior in good condition?

I'll buy it.

😀

Oh wait, is it an automatic?

nope, it's a manual.

edit:

i replaced the clutch on it last year, and it's not exactly a performance oriented car, so the clutch is still good.

pic

there's no huge denting or anything of that sort.. the only real exterior problem is a super crappy maaco paint job that caused spider cracking on the left side above the front wheelwell.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

Is the exterior in good condition?

I'll buy it.

😀

Oh wait, is it an automatic?

nope, it's a manual.

edit:

i replaced the clutch on it last year, and it's not exactly a performance oriented car, so the clutch is still good.

pic

there's no huge denting or anything of that sort.. the only real exterior problem is a super crappy maaco paint job that caused spider cracking on the left side above the front wheelwell.

Cool..

So you're saying you'd sell it to me? LOL....

How much? 😀

 

[Walleye]

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

Is the exterior in good condition?

I'll buy it.

😀

Oh wait, is it an automatic?

nope, it's a manual.

edit:

i replaced the clutch on it last year, and it's not exactly a performance oriented car, so the clutch is still good.

pic

there's no huge denting or anything of that sort.. the only real exterior problem is a super crappy maaco paint job that caused spider cracking on the left side above the front wheelwell.

Cool..

So you're saying you'd sell it to me? LOL....

How much? 😀

LOL.. umm.. you gonna drive down to pick it up? 😛

i cant understand why you or anyone would want an 84 camry 😛

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Walleye

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: Walleye
i buy cases of pennzoil.

20 quart cases, like 40 bucks. works well enough.

oh, and i use 10w30. works well enough. i do burn a quart every 400 miles, though. :|

A quart every 400 miles sounds like an oil leak to me or severe blow-by. If it is a leak, then it could be one of numerous seals (main crank, camshaft, etc). What kind of vehicle is this? And what conditions is it being run under?

Perhaps try and run a 10w40 and see if there is a change in the rate at which the oil burns. Or top off next time with a quart of 15w50. If the rate doesn't significantly slow or stop, then nothing short of a teardown/fix will work (maybe an AutoRX treatment would help).

i'm not too worried, i know it needs a teardown/fix. the fool who rebuilt it (my father) listened to the fool at the automotive place and bought aluminum headers, or gaskets, or something.. some kinda seal i think.. and it ended up screwing over the camry's mileage and oil consumption. i dont care though, because i wont have the car much longer. when the car is only worth 400 bucks to begin with, it doesnt make me want to invest 1500 on refurbishing it to get it back to good condition when i'm getting rid of it in the next 3000 miles.

Is the exterior in good condition?

I'll buy it.

😀

Oh wait, is it an automatic?

nope, it's a manual.

edit:

i replaced the clutch on it last year, and it's not exactly a performance oriented car, so the clutch is still good.

pic

there's no huge denting or anything of that sort.. the only real exterior problem is a super crappy maaco paint job that caused spider cracking on the left side above the front wheelwell.

Cool..

So you're saying you'd sell it to me? LOL....

How much? 😀

LOL.. umm.. you gonna drive down to pick it up? 😛

i cant understand why you or anyone would want an 84 camry 😛

Well, I am looking for a cheap beater. 😉

Just something reliable and fuel efficient while I save up 3-4k for something that I actually want. But you're right, it wouldn't be worth it unless I could pick it up, since shipping would cost more than the car. 😛

Wow..

This Heineken is remarkably good after two shots of 100 proof Stoli's and two shots of Bailey's.....

52 minutes till newyears, and counting...