SketchMaster
Diamond Member
- Feb 23, 2005
- 3,100
- 149
- 116
Down shift and use the engine to brake whenever possible.
TechBoy, don't bother. Just get the OEM and some good brake pads and you will be good.
I'm surprised people recommend this.
For me, throwing on set of pads and rotors every couple years sure beats doing in a clutch and wear and tear on your transmission, CV axles/joints etc...
Heck of a lot cheaper.
AgaBoogaBoo
Lifer
- Feb 16, 2003
- 26,108
- 5
- 81
While I have no technical knowledge regarding brakes, I do actually have slotted rotors.
If you have 5th Gen Maxima OEM brakes/rotors, you've probably already noticed rotor warping and vibrations by now.
I ran into that problem about 3 years ago and got these rotors and these pads per the recommendation of maxima.org members.
What I didnt know about this combo was that you had to "bed in" the brakes which requires about ten 60-0mph cycles(impossible to do during the day in DC) so I drove around with some weird brake feel for the first few days.
They have otherwise been okay so far, but still more trouble and cost than they are really worth for the average joe whose most punishing car task entails sitting in rush hour traffic a lot.
60-0 isnt noticeably shortened, but stopping seems to be less linear... Like if you were to graph my 60-0 speed versus stop distance, I'd say that 60-30mph is fairly linear and as I slow down to 0, the line curves(car stops faster). Who knows if there are actually any brake differences since it might all be in my mind? These are just my impressions after having driven 65000 miles on the OEM rotors and 20000 miles on the Hawk/powerslot combo.
What I do know is that the rotors arent warped and my car doesnt vibrate when I brake.
You might also consider looking at these guys because some people at maxima.org had good things to say about them too.
If you have 5th Gen Maxima OEM brakes/rotors, you've probably already noticed rotor warping and vibrations by now.
I ran into that problem about 3 years ago and got these rotors and these pads per the recommendation of maxima.org members.
What I didnt know about this combo was that you had to "bed in" the brakes which requires about ten 60-0mph cycles(impossible to do during the day in DC) so I drove around with some weird brake feel for the first few days.
They have otherwise been okay so far, but still more trouble and cost than they are really worth for the average joe whose most punishing car task entails sitting in rush hour traffic a lot.
60-0 isnt noticeably shortened, but stopping seems to be less linear... Like if you were to graph my 60-0 speed versus stop distance, I'd say that 60-30mph is fairly linear and as I slow down to 0, the line curves(car stops faster). Who knows if there are actually any brake differences since it might all be in my mind? These are just my impressions after having driven 65000 miles on the OEM rotors and 20000 miles on the Hawk/powerslot combo.
What I do know is that the rotors arent warped and my car doesnt vibrate when I brake.
You might also consider looking at these guys because some people at maxima.org had good things to say about them too.
OS
Lifer
- Oct 11, 1999
- 15,581
- 1
- 76
i had/have this problem on an 03 accord, which my model uses almost the same brake setup as the 98-02 V6.
the problem is partially the brake pads leaving deposits. The other is I think the brakes/rotors are just undersized for the car, my original rotors after 60K miles had deposits and micro cracks/fissures in them.
pic here
I think the darken areas are deposits and the cracks are obvious.
After I got brembo blanks/hawk pads the problem disappeared for about 20K miles.
However just last weekend I replace the pads and I notice cracks/fissures starting to develop again. Also I am getting a hint of shuddering during braking also. I hope this problem doesn't return, but I might need new rotors again after this set of pads.
the problem is partially the brake pads leaving deposits. The other is I think the brakes/rotors are just undersized for the car, my original rotors after 60K miles had deposits and micro cracks/fissures in them.
pic here
I think the darken areas are deposits and the cracks are obvious.
After I got brembo blanks/hawk pads the problem disappeared for about 20K miles.
However just last weekend I replace the pads and I notice cracks/fissures starting to develop again. Also I am getting a hint of shuddering during braking also. I hope this problem doesn't return, but I might need new rotors again after this set of pads.
Dude, learn to downshift!
Slotted/cross-drilled are basically for looks only.
Fixed. Modern brake pads have very little outgassing at all.
My MR2 is 18 years old and has 155,000 miles on it. I changed the clutch for the first time at 150k. No problems with the transmission, the CV joints, or anything else, and I engine brake ALL the time. I'd imagine this car will make it to 250k easy.
If you're honestly blowing out transmissions by engine braking, something is seriously wrong with your driving.
Riding the brakes down hills, I guess. I changed out my factory rotors last year, mostly because I got a killer deal on a new set. It didn't run me much more than it would have cost to resurface them.
Crossdrilled ones tend to crack easily, even those that are are made to be crossdrilled (ie. Brembos, whether OEM or aftermarket) and chamfered (countersunk, radius, or sinusoidal curved). Very hard use and/or hard use combined with moisture tends to accelerate the spiderweb cracking.
Slotted do not do this. They get the same exhausting of superheated gas as with crossdrilled, as well as the (slight) benefit of the extra bite and scrape, without the fear of cracking.
Though this does reduce the thermal capacity of the rotors somewhat, for most applications, thermal capacity is sufficient and the tradeoff is worthwhile.
Rotors do warp. HOWEVER, they only warp when there is a defect (ie. non-flat hat), they're installed incorrectly (bolts not torqued on evenly), or they're abused (parking brake engaged after hard brake use).
Do they warp with correct (but hard) use? Absolutely not. There are plenty of whitepapers from top tier brake manufacturers that support this fact.
For instance:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
The vast majority of these "warped disk" cases are mis-diagnosed problems caused by brake pad material deposited unevenly on the rotor.
Only in the US (the land of automatic transmissions) is this argument ever seen.
Learn how the fsck to drive stick properly and in time you will realize what normal driving involves, and that includes some engine braking by default.
not just that, iv seen some M-Fers catch on fire
hey OP, you want ventilated rotors not crossdrilled or slotted. maybe you could upgrade to like some other honda brake caliper/pad assembly that could fit on your accord.
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