YACT: Anything one needs to know beyond signing title and bill of sale buying a used car via private seller?

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nt

 

[Red]

Tax

 

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Yeah, but that's paid when i register I think...? Since it's a private sale I don't believe I figure it with the seller...

 

[IshmaelLeaver]

If the registration is current.

 

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Originally posted by: IshmaelLeaver
If the registration is current.

Why would it matter if the seller has had it in their garage unregistered for a few years...?

 

[HappyPuppy]

In CA if it has been unregistered for a few years the owner needs to get a certificate of non operation, otherwise you are liable for all the past registration fees.

 

[Thegonagle]

In some states, the license plates stay with the owner. In others, the license plates stay with the car. (Uh, I don't know what kind of "advice" this is, but at least it's an FYI, so know how your state handles this, just so you don't find yourself needing to drive home without plates.)

You probably have from 7 to 30 days to bring the title in and have it transferred. In my state, they fine you $30 (IIRC) extra right at the DVS office (aka DMV) if you're past the deadline, so go in right away.

Make sure there is no lien holder listed on the title, and if there is, that there is a lien release form with the title. (In my state, the lien release form is an official state document with the state seal.)

A written bill of sale (two copies, each signed by both buyer and seller) to accompany the title, helps protect both of you.

On the bill of sale when I sell a car, I usually type out the VIN, year, model, mileage, sale price (and method of payment--cash is safest for the seller), date, my name, the buyer's name and DL number, and "AS IS, NO WARRANTY," and then we both sign and date both copies. It's a simple step and as a seller, it protects me if the buyer doesn't transfer the title and starts getting parking tickets or committing crimes in my old car. As a buyer, it serves as a verification the DVS/DMV of the sale price in case it's unusually low and they think you're trying to evade sales tax. (Eg: I bought a 9 year old car for $200, but I didn't have a bill of sale, and when I went to transfer the title, the lady said "sorry, I've got to look this one up." I ended up paying $70 sales tax because the $200 POS "booked" for $1100.)

 

[dud]

Skoorb, what are you buying? I "stumbled" across a great deal on a car last weekend but decided to wait until this weekend to test drive. Guess what? He sold the car. I am devastated. If you are buying from a private party the only things you need to be concerned about are paying the seller, having the seller make you out a bill o sale and having the seller CORRECTLY fill out and sign the applicable sections of the title. Good luck ...

 

[LAUST]

If it's a Nissan make sure to get AAA

 

[thedarkwolf]

If your buying out of state you will probably need to have the title notorized. Banks and libraries will do it.

 

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Originally posted by: dud
Skoorb, what are you buying? I "stumbled" across a great deal on a car last weekend but decided to wait until this weekend to test drive. Guess what? He sold the car. I am devastated. If you are buying from a private party the only things you need to be concerned about are paying the seller, having the seller make you out a bill o sale and having the seller CORRECTLY fill out and sign the applicable sections of the title. Good luck ...

It's a surprise, and I don't want to get ahead of myself, but I'm waiting this moment for the seller to call and say they're back from their things they were doing today, then I'm off to buy it. It's an astoundingly good price, so hopefully my phone will ring in a sec...

In regards to buying used cars from private sellers I've determined that once it is in the paper that day, go drive it and be ready to basically buy it, because they seem to move quickly if they are priced low. With a dealer they know what the car is worth, and they're in the business, but some private sellers just want to be done with the damn car, and price in line with that.