YACT: Air Conditioning Sucks

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,153
635
126
Rewind to last spring when I had my AC evacuated to make my engine swap easier. I was down to 1.5lbs so I knew I had a leak somewhere.

Fastforward to a month ago when I attempted to charge the system. It leaked out of the valves (after the cores were replaced) so I ordered new lines and replaced them. I also replaced the drier. It held about 28inches of vacuum so we charged it (2.1lbs of R12). It leaked out of the drier but not the valves. I was relieved it was just the drier. Evacuated it again (funny how inaccurate the recovery unit is; measured 2.4lbs). Replaced a pinched o-ring on the drier. This time, held 29inches of vacuum. Replaced the valve cores as well. Charged it. The sniffer was still picking up something at the valves; question was whether it was residue or actually leaking.

My point is this; why would they use something as finiky as schrader valves?! I swear, this is the dumbest thing I've come across working on cars.

If this R12 leaks out its getting R134 and retrofit valves. Doesn't it make sense to make some sort of fitting that you could screw on top of the schrader valve to capture anything that leaks past them?! Someone out there tell me such a thing exists.
 

Nutbucket, you do realize that thier are seven different types of A/C shrader valves and they are not interchangeable.

The easy fix to your particular problem will to be to go out and purchase brass shrader valve caps, these with an O-rings will stop the leak(s), the plastic ones are useless.
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,153
635
126
Originally posted by: Roger
Nutbucket, you do realize that thier are seven different types of A/C shrader valves and they are not interchangeable.

The easy fix to your particular problem will to be to go out and purchase brass shrader valve caps, these with an O-rings will stop the leak(s), the plastic ones are useless.

I/my friend (mechanic) was using the identical valve insert (to the factory part).

EDIT: Where can I find these brass valve caps?! Roger, you are a car God!

Cheers Roger :beer:!
 

Are you sure ?

Several look the same but have Teflon seals on them, some have rubber and yet some have plain o'le plastic.
The lines (where the shrader valve(s) screw in) may be damaged as well.


Brass valve caps can be found at any A/C repair shop, they are about a buck a piece.
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,153
635
126
Originally posted by: Roger
Are you sure ?

Several look the same but have Teflon seals on them, some have rubber and yet some have plain o'le plastic.
The lines (where the shrader valve(s) screw in) may be damaged as well.


Brass valve caps can be found at any A/C repair shop, they are about a buck a piece.

Well, lines were replaced two weeks ago with new dealer parts. My friend decided to change the valves after the intial charge/discharge.
 

Well, lines were replaced two weeks ago with new dealer parts. My friend decided to change the valves after the intial charge/discharge.

That was the mistake that was made, if the originals were not leaking, they should have been left alone.


Remember, the shrader valve MUST be lubed with A/C refrigerant oil before installation
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,153
635
126
Originally posted by: Roger
Well, lines were replaced two weeks ago with new dealer parts. My friend decided to change the valves after the intial charge/discharge.

That was the mistake that was made, if the originals were not leaking, they should have been left alone.


Remember, the shrader valve MUST be lubed with A/C refrigerant oil before installation

I should say, that the original valves on the original lines leaked. That's why I replaced the lines. Yeah, I had a strange feeling about replacing the valves in the new lines but he's the pro. I know squat about AC.