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YACT: a big problem and a small question.

Let's start off with the easy one. Which Fuel Filter should I get?
There's Fram ($16), Puroletor ($20), and WIX ($28).
and how do I take the old one out? just yank and pull?


then, the second problem I have: Rusty coolant in the radiator.
After my first drain, the coolant looks like Milk Tea. Even after I place a hose and kept water running through, the stuff that came still looking milk-tea-ish. I was running the engine with the heater on; if I turned off the engine, water became clear after a while.
So I fill the radiator up with plain water (no anti-freeze) and ran the car for 3 days. I drain it again today and the stuff still came out milky. how's going on?


pics right herre
fluid1.jpg
fluid2.jpg
fluid3.jpg

2 and 3 is the 'first' batch. as you may see in 1.jpg it is a bit clearer or not as concentrated.
 
That milky substance sounds like oil in the coolant. 🙁

I'd get the Purolator, because I'm a middle-of-the-road kinda guy. Installation is different from car to car. Some are a couple quick connectors that pop out and is a quick change, while others are in the tank and a a PITA to do.
 
Sounds like your engine is fvcked and that's oil in the coolant.

Regarding fuel filter it probably doesn't matter now, cause your engine is fvcked.
 
Sounds like your engine is fvcked and that's oil in the coolant.

Regarding fuel filter it probably doesn't matter now, cause your engine is fvcked.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
That milky substance sounds like oil in the coolant. 🙁
Sounds like your engine is fvcked and that's oil in the coolant.

well, you know how oil and water do not mix well right? The liquid is "mixed well." I collect a gallon of it from my first drain and it sat there without "seperation" ie. no distinct layering of water and oil. I touched the fluid too and it doesn't feel oily. Also, after the liquid dries it stains (don't tell my neighbors) the concrete floor with a orange color. a few rub with my shoe got it off though.

Installation is different from car to car. Some are a couple quick connectors that pop out and is a quick change, while others are in the tank and a a PITA to do.

mine is located in the front engine bay, connected by hoses. I remember one friend of mine did the change for me (3 years ago) and he cut out a small portion of the hose before re-attaching the new filter.
 
Can you take a pic of the coolant?

Why are you replacing your fuel filter again? In all honesty, that seems a little soon.
 
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Coolant chemically changes oil. The milky stuff is most likely oil.
Probably the head gasket or cracked head.

🙁((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((


and I can take pics of coolant, will post tomorrow.
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Coolant chemically changes oil. The milky stuff is most likely oil.
Probably the head gasket or cracked head.

🙁((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((


and I can take pics of coolant, will post tomorrow.

It can also be caused by a porous casting of the block or head.
What car?
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Coolant chemically changes oil. The milky stuff is most likely oil.
Probably the head gasket or cracked head.

🙁((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((


and I can take pics of coolant, will post tomorrow.

check the oil fill cap, if there is milk shake style stuff there, you did what he said. if not, time for a new radiator?
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
well, you know how oil and water do not mix well right? The liquid is "mixed well." I collect a gallon of it from my first drain and it sat there without "seperation" ie. no distinct layering of water and oil. I touched the fluid too and it doesn't feel oily. Also, after the liquid dries it stains (don't tell my neighbors) the concrete floor with a orange color. a few rub with my shoe got it off though.

"milky" color in coolant has long been known as a sign of oil getting in, probably a blown HG.

Also, look up an "emulsion" sometime 😉
 
Originally posted by: scorpmatt
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Coolant chemically changes oil. The milky stuff is most likely oil.
Probably the head gasket or cracked head.

check the oil fill cap, if there is milk shake style stuff there, you did what he said. if not, time for a new radiator?

Oil Fill Cap? you mean the one (usually) sits next to the spark plug wire boot? lemme check


Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
It can also be caused by a porous casting of the block or head.
What car?

the same old car that can't pass smog.
it's a Toyota 4banger. 7AFE. it SHOULD be a cast iron block with aluminum head.
there is visible oil 'clogs' surrounding the head gasket, btw.



so if the HG is indeed blown, am I at risk of overheating, hydralocks, and other horrible horrible things?

now that you guys mentioned it, I 'consume' (burn plused mix in coolant) one quart. everytime I do oil change I only get roughly 3 quarts back from the 4-quart block.

and, an emulsion?
 
So anyway, regarding your first question, if your engine isn't totally ruined, the type of fuel filter you choose is irrelevant. Not one dime's worth of difference in them. Get the cheapest one.
 
Originally posted by: scorpmatt
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Coolant chemically changes oil. The milky stuff is most likely oil.
Probably the head gasket or cracked head.
🙁((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((


and I can take pics of coolant, will post tomorrow.
check the oil fill cap, if there is milk shake style stuff there, you did what he said. if not, time for a new radiator?
Oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure. You're not likely to be getting too much coolant (if any) in your oil from a blown headgasket. At least, such has been my experience.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
now that you guys mentioned it, I 'consume' (burn plused mix in coolant) one quart. everytime I do oil change I only get roughly 3 quarts back from the 4-quart block.

and, an emulsion?
One quart in 3,000 miles is fine. Most manufacturers will not start warranty service until oil consumption reaches 3 times that level (one quart every 1,000 miles).

ZV
 
OP from the info given I'm going to go ahead and say you have a blown head gasket.

Also this could contribute to misfires and may be the cause of your high HC level.
 
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
OP from the info given I'm going to go ahead and say you have a blown head gasket.
Also this could contribute to misfires and may be the cause of your high HC level.

okay.... so how much would a HG job cost?? (definitely not gonna do it myself)


Oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure. You're not likely to be getting too much coolant (if any) in your oil from a blown headgasket. At least, such has been my experience.
ZV

phew, so how much longer can I prolong/ignore this problem? (kinda short on cash now)
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
OP from the info given I'm going to go ahead and say you have a blown head gasket.
Also this could contribute to misfires and may be the cause of your high HC level.

okay.... so how much would a HG job cost?? (definitely not gonna do it myself)


Oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure. You're not likely to be getting too much coolant (if any) in your oil from a blown headgasket. At least, such has been my experience.
ZV

phew, so how much longer can I prolong/ignore this problem? (kinda short on cash now)


I knew of a blown HG in my first car for about 6 mos. before it finally failed catestrophically.
 
UPDATED WITH PICSS!!!


Originally posted by: iamwiz82
I knew of a blown HG in my first car for about 6 mos. before it finally failed catestrophically.

does "catastrophically" means "engines go kaboom" ?

 
how much is OEM fuel filter? last time I bought a toyota fuel filter, it was only $30, if you are willing to spend $28 for an aftermarket one, you might as well get an OEM for a little bit more, or maybe less.
 
It's a very expensive repair, but I'd also like to know how long he can ignore the problem. If he kept dumping his coolant out fairly often and refilling it with cheapy crap from walmart his cooling would be fine, so is it really bad that the engine is throwing oil into the coolant?
 
Originally posted by: richardycc
how much is OEM fuel filter? last time I bought a toyota fuel filter, it was only $30, if you are willing to spend $28 for an aftermarket one, you might as well get an OEM for a little bit more, or maybe less.
The one for my 97 maxima was definitely under $20 OEM.

 
That is oil in the coolant and the "MILK" your talkign about is oil being whiped up with the oil. And then is clear when the engine os off. Have you pulled your dipstick out yet to see if it looks like mayo or really over filled yet with water mixing in the crankcase?

Lookign at that water in the botle though if this isnt sheens your engine is toast and even if you change the head gasket your berrings will al be shot. Especially if waster is in the crankcase.
New car time 😀
 
First off you don't have a blown headgasket. You have a rusty coolant because the old coolant was left in the engine too long and turned into an acid and dissolved the cast iron to rust. There isn't much hope to stopping the rust inside your engine once it starts. I have tried over the years for several different customers with limited success.

I would recommend back flushing the entire engine and removing the engine block drain plugs. If you feel comfortable you can use a chemical cleaner too. But some local laws might prohibit this so I could capture the wastewater.

Secondly, I would recommend the fuel filter you feel comfortable with. Cheaper filters are cheaper because they are made that way. I use OEM or Wix brands on the vehicles I work on because I don't know how often the customer is planning on changing their filter.
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
UPDATED WITH PICSS!!!


Originally posted by: iamwiz82
I knew of a blown HG in my first car for about 6 mos. before it finally failed catestrophically.

does "catastrophically" means "engines go kaboom" ?

sort of. the silicates and/or ethylene glycol in your coolant does not mix with the bearings of the crankshaft as far as I know. A surefire way to tell if it really is a blown HG is to do a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) coolant chemistry will show up in the oil.
 
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