YACT: 1995 Honda Accord ? Code P0725

[Quixfire]

Good Morning everyone,
I am in need of assistance on a customer?s vehicle I am having trouble with. The vehicle in question is a 1995 Honda Accord EX V6 2.7L Automatic. The vehicle has no driveability symptom other than the check engine light is on. The code stored in the PCM is a P0725. My one book says it?s an A/T concern and my other book says it?s an Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction.

What I need to know is how to test the system to determine the causal component or am I better off recommending my customer to the Honda dealer for repair?


P.S. The customer would rather pay me to ?try? and fix it than take it to the dealer to be repaired. I disagree with this because if I know I can?t repair it I don?t want to waste his money and my time.

Update: The coil replacement fixed the problem and my customer is very happy.

Thanks again aircooled, a :beer: for you and a :milk; for your cat.

 

Hold on Quix, I'll be with you in one moment, going to grab my code book.

 

[aircooled]

Honda-tech.com also says P0725 is Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction

 

Same as my master code book.

 

[GasX]

It means the Johnson rods are warped

 

Funny, there is no other tech info in my book concerning this code :shocked:

Go away before I decide to beat you down Mwilding.

 

Quix, do you have a scan tool that will read streaming data ?

 

[aircooled]

Just found this also:

In a service news article from Honda they say the following:


Tach Fluctuation and/OR A/T
DTC P0725: Accord V6

On 1995-97 Accord V6s, when you troubleshoot a fluctuating tachometer OR A/T DTC P0725 (lock-up clutch does not engage), keep in mind the cause could be a faulty resistor in the ignition coil. The transmission control module (TCM) provides electrical pulses through this resistor to drive the tachometer. Although a faulty resistor doesn?t affect the coil's ignition functions, you'll still need to replace the ignition coil to fix a fluctuating tachometer OR A/T DTC P0725 the coil resistor isn't available separately. Order P/N 30520-P0G-A02, for the ignition coil.

We had this happen on a couple of cars in work and replacing the coil fixed the problem.

edit: may not be relevent but I noticed the same code.

 

[wasssup]

Where do you guys have your shops..? I need a little work done on my '93 maxima...

 

Nice find Aircooled

 

[Quixfire]

Originally posted by: Roger
Quix, do you have a scan tool that will read streaming data ?

Yes, but I can't pull this sensor's data, it is not a option on my scanner.

 

[zixxer]

not to threadjack, but rather than creating a new post...

My bat and brake light stay on until my car is warmed up. It is affected my rpm's. (if rpm's are higher it turns off,) and gets "better" until it's gone. (when car is started the lights stay on. After 30 seconds or so they turn off if engine is above 5k, after a minute they turn off above 4k, after another minute they're off above 3k, etc. etc. until they don't turn on) The lights are either both on or both off..


I suspect my alt is on its way out. It's been doing this for a week or two so far.


This is on a 200sx se-r. Alt has unknown milage (probably in the area of 100k).

 

[Quixfire]

Originally posted by: Roger
Nice find Aircooled

Ditto, this is what I was hoping for because the transmission works fine.

 

[NutBucket]

Sorry I could help you out with this one Quix. Glad you got some better input

 

[Quixfire]

Originally posted by: wasssup
Where do you guys have your shops..? I need a little work done on my '93 maxima...

Both of my shops are in Southeastern Michigan.

 

[NutBucket]

And now everyone knows why I say that 5th V6 Accords are junk

 

[Quixfire]

Originally posted by: se7enty7
not to threadjack, but rather than creating a new post...

My bat and brake light stay on until my car is warmed up. It is affected my rpm's. (if rpm's are higher it turns off,) and gets "better" until it's gone. (when car is started the lights stay on. After 30 seconds or so they turn off if engine is above 5k, after a minute they turn off above 4k, after another minute they're off above 3k, etc. etc. until they don't turn on) The lights are either both on or both off..


I suspect my alt is on its way out. It's been doing this for a week or two so far.


This is on a 200sx se-r. Alt has unknown milage (probably in the area of 100k).

My gut instinct is you have a common ground issue that is affecting the charging system, brake system warning circuit, and the PCM. I would start looking for a bad ground connection in the engine compartment.

 

[zixxer]

Originally posted by: Quixfire

Originally posted by: se7enty7
not to threadjack, but rather than creating a new post...

My bat and brake light stay on until my car is warmed up. It is affected my rpm's. (if rpm's are higher it turns off,) and gets "better" until it's gone. (when car is started the lights stay on. After 30 seconds or so they turn off if engine is above 5k, after a minute they turn off above 4k, after another minute they're off above 3k, etc. etc. until they don't turn on) The lights are either both on or both off..


I suspect my alt is on its way out. It's been doing this for a week or two so far.


This is on a 200sx se-r. Alt has unknown milage (probably in the area of 100k).

My gut instinct is you have a common ground issue that is affecting the charging system, brake system warning circuit, and the PCM. I would start looking for a bad ground connection in the engine compartment.

Hmm... Why would it go away at higher rpm's, or after the car has warmed up (i.e. the battery recharged)

My battery is fairly new. I also have an amplifier and sub; but hooked up to a 1 farad cap. I suspect that this is my alternator recharging my capacitor .. which didn't happen before.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: se7enty7

Originally posted by: Quixfire

Originally posted by: se7enty7
not to threadjack, but rather than creating a new post...

My bat and brake light stay on until my car is warmed up. It is affected my rpm's. (if rpm's are higher it turns off,) and gets "better" until it's gone. (when car is started the lights stay on. After 30 seconds or so they turn off if engine is above 5k, after a minute they turn off above 4k, after another minute they're off above 3k, etc. etc. until they don't turn on) The lights are either both on or both off..


I suspect my alt is on its way out. It's been doing this for a week or two so far.


This is on a 200sx se-r. Alt has unknown milage (probably in the area of 100k).

My gut instinct is you have a common ground issue that is affecting the charging system, brake system warning circuit, and the PCM. I would start looking for a bad ground connection in the engine compartment.

Hmm... Why would it go away at higher rpm's, or after the car has warmed up (i.e. the battery recharged)

My battery is fairly new. I also have an amplifier and sub; but hooked up to a 1 farad cap. I suspect that this is my alternator recharging my capacitor .. which didn't happen before.

Doesn't take very long to charge a cap.

 

[godmare]

Originally posted by: NutBucket
And now everyone knows why I say that 5th V6 Accords are junk

well, they made all of about 7 of them

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: godmare

Originally posted by: NutBucket
And now everyone knows why I say that 5th V6 Accords are junk

well, they made all of about 7 of them

I know I read somewhere they used the long-nose cars it touring car racing. The extra room allows them to place the engine behind the front axle (4 banger).

 

[godmare]

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: godmare

Originally posted by: NutBucket
And now everyone knows why I say that 5th V6 Accords are junk

well, they made all of about 7 of them

I know I read somewhere they used the long-nose cars it touring car racing. The extra room allows them to place the engine behind the front axle (4 banger).

Yeah, the 5th gen V6 accord is 3 inches longer
The 6th and 7th gen V6 accords are obviously much more popular.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: godmare

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: godmare

Originally posted by: NutBucket
And now everyone knows why I say that 5th V6 Accords are junk

well, they made all of about 7 of them

I know I read somewhere they used the long-nose cars it touring car racing. The extra room allows them to place the engine behind the front axle (4 banger).

Yeah, the 5th gen V6 accord is 3 inches longer
The 6th and 7th gen V6 accords are obviously much more popular.

Well duh, they're actually an upgrade from the 4 bangers

 

[Quixfire]

Update: The coil replacement fixed the problem and my customer is very happy.

Thanks again aircooled, a :beer: for you and a :milk; for your cat.