YACT, 1968 Ford Mustang

[AFSCrazy]

UPDATE


Sorry to ressurect a somewhat old thread, but I'm in the Mustang buying mood again, and have found yet another 68'.

Any of you who have seen my more recent motorcycle threads are probably like, "WTF is this kid doing?". Well, my parents gave me an ultimatum, Mustang or motorcycle. Being the proud(LOL) owner of a 90' miata, I chose the Mustang. BTW, I am paying for this myself.

So here's the info on the mustang. 1968 newly rebuilt('97) mustang coupe.

Restored in 1997 289 with with large cam, 650 Holley, MSD ignition,2.5" magnaflow exhaust.c-4 trans. with shift kit. Great American muscle car.

Maybe I am blind, but I don't see a clutch pedal. Here are some pics.

Front
Back
Interior

I am going to test drive it tomorrow and the only problems stated in an email, is:

one rear leaf spring shackle is slightly bent.(Could use to be replaced)
The car has been sitting a lot and takes a little while to warm up. I would probably rebuild the carb as it has been 9 years now since new. Car says 126,000 but most everything is new in 97. Only about 12,000 miles since then.

The asking price is 9k. To me it seems reasonable, what do you guys think?

Also, I'm not much of a mechanic, but I know people who can help. Just to get a general price, what do you think these repairs may cost. And, if it runs as good as it looks, do you think it's a good deal?

Thanks a lot.

 

[Linflas]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Hey guys,

Recently I've been looking to buy an old mustang, and I think I've found the right one.

PIC

It's a 1968 Mustang coupe (couldn't find a decently priced fastback) with a 302 v8 Auto, and a new "eddelbrock 4 barrel carb" and "flomaster exhaust".

I"m going to check it out tomorrow, and from what I understand it's in very good condition, runs great, and the only thing the owner said was that it could use a bit of paint because the clearcoat is peeling in certain areas. I've been assured there's no rust, and I will see for myself tomorrow.

The only problem howver, was that "somewhere along the title times it got odomiter discrepency so the title says 9999999999".

I'm having my grandfather come with me who is big on cars, but don't I need a correct mileage to register/insure the car?

Any input is appreciated, and if you have anything to add as in "you shouldnt buy the car because..." is appreciated too. Thanks a lot!

There should be a place on the title somewhere to indicate that the accurate mileage is unknown.

 

[nakedfrog]

Most cars that old are exempt from odometer readings.

 

[DougK62]

Unless you're looking for a collectible don't worry about it. It's common with older cars.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: DougK62
Unless you're looking for a collectible don't worry about it. It's common with older cars.

Yep. My 75 Chevy Monza only has 5 places so theres not telling how many times it has flipped or someone ahs rolled it back in its early days.
Heck Jay Leno's job when he was a kid was to roll back the milage on cars at a dealership.
So something that old don't worry.

 

[funboy6942]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog
Most cars that old are exempt from odometer readings.

Yup so I wouldnt worry too much considering it only has the 5 digit od.

 

[AFSCrazy]

Thanks a lot for the information. I have just come upon what I hope is not a big deal, because I really want this car.

I e-mailed the guy asking for VIN# and when I can test it, here is the email I recieved.

well the car is off of the road right now so you can hear it run but you will only b able to drive it up and down my street it does need some work and if you purchase it i will only sell it if it is trailered home due to it needs balljoints i do not have the vin right now off the top of my head but i will find out 4 you

I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

Are balljoints a difficult/costly thing to replace? I have a limited budget, and a lack of car knowledge, although I do know people who can fix most things.

Thanks again.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Thanks a lot for the information. I have just come upon what I hope is not a big deal, because I really want this car.

I e-mailed the guy asking for VIN# and when I can test it, here is the email I recieved.

well the car is off of the road right now so you can hear it run but you will only b able to drive it up and down my street it does need some work and if you purchase it i will only sell it if it is trailered home due to it needs balljoints i do not have the vin right now off the top of my head but i will find out 4 you

I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

Are balljoints a difficult/costly thing to replace? I have a limited budget, and a lack of car knowledge, although I do know people who can fix most things.

Thanks again.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

With that said, ball joints are not very easy but you should be able to replace all 4 in a good weekend. Also look at replacing the shocks and check the control bushings out as well while you are in there is you do it.

 

[Krazefinn]

He should have been able to read the vin off title immediately...why is he hesitating to provide that?
be wary....vin plate may have been changed. The vin is also stamped in several differnt places (doorjamb, firewall, radiator support, parcel dash, depends on manufacturer), but if those parts have been replaced it get harder to determine true orig vin if someone has altered it. Not a good thing...

Above post is good point, but for the right money, and right buyer, classics are excellent. AVOID RUST!

 

[Reckoner]

now THAT's a mustang. Not these current gen POS.

 

[DainBramaged]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Thanks a lot for the information. I have just come upon what I hope is not a big deal, because I really want this car.

I e-mailed the guy asking for VIN# and when I can test it, here is the email I recieved.

well the car is off of the road right now so you can hear it run but you will only b able to drive it up and down my street it does need some work and if you purchase it i will only sell it if it is trailered home due to it needs balljoints i do not have the vin right now off the top of my head but i will find out 4 you

I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

Are balljoints a difficult/costly thing to replace? I have a limited budget, and a lack of car knowledge, although I do know people who can fix most things.

Thanks again.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

With that said, ball joints are not very easy but you should be able to replace all 4 in a good weekend. Also look at replacing the shocks and check the control bushings out as well while you are in there is you do it.

All 4 ball joints? 😕

 

[AFSCrazy]

Very good to know. I definately understand where you're coming from. I am willing to learn how to fix these problems, I'm more of a hands-on guy. I just don't want to purchase something in need of incredible restoration. I don't really know where to go from here, so this will take a great deal of consideration. I love old mustangs , and am willing to do minor fixes that aren't extremely costly or knowledge intense.


UPDATE

The response I have recieved has hopefully entailed all work it may need.

no it really only needs little stuff it has power steering but i disconnected the pump because it was making a weird noise and it needs front shocks too other than that it runs beautiful

hopefully the shocks/ball joints will not be too costly, obviously research is needed. I'm a little dismayed, but there's no car rather have.

now THAT's a mustang. Not these current gen POS.

I totally agree. I would never buy a newer mustang, because I think they just look ugly. The engine is not worth it to me if the car doesn't have style.

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: DainBramaged

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Thanks a lot for the information. I have just come upon what I hope is not a big deal, because I really want this car.

I e-mailed the guy asking for VIN# and when I can test it, here is the email I recieved.

well the car is off of the road right now so you can hear it run but you will only b able to drive it up and down my street it does need some work and if you purchase it i will only sell it if it is trailered home due to it needs balljoints i do not have the vin right now off the top of my head but i will find out 4 you

I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

Are balljoints a difficult/costly thing to replace? I have a limited budget, and a lack of car knowledge, although I do know people who can fix most things.

Thanks again.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

With that said, ball joints are not very easy but you should be able to replace all 4 in a good weekend. Also look at replacing the shocks and check the control bushings out as well while you are in there is you do it.

All 4 ball joints? 😕

Upper and lower on each side

 

[AFSCrazy]

Sorry to bump this again, but I did a little research and found that the parts required would only be $200 at most. I was wondering if this may be a bargaining tool in the purchase of the car.

The guy is asking $5000 for the car, are there any experts out there who can tell me if that's reasonable considering the repairs:

-New paint job (optional I guess)
-Fix power steering
-replace balljoints
-replace front shocks

or if maybe I can talk him down a bit. Thanks again, can't thank you guys enough for the help.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy

now THAT's a mustang. Not these current gen POS.

I totally agree. I would never buy a newer mustang, because I think they just look ugly. The engine is not worth it to me if the car doesn't have style.

You realise that the current generation Mustangs look pretty much exactly the same, right?

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Sorry to bump this again, but I did a little research and found that the parts required would only be $200 at most. I was wondering if this may be a bargaining tool in the purchase of the car.

The guy is asking $5000 for the car, are there any experts out there who can tell me if that's reasonable considering the repairs:

-New paint job (optional I guess)
-Fix power steering
-replace balljoints
-replace front shocks

or if maybe I can talk him down a bit. Thanks again, can't thank you guys enough for the help.

A ready-to-drive '68 coupe is in the $8,000 to $10,000 range up here in Seattle assuming that the car needs no work done. $5,000 seems about right for the one you're looking at. It's not a screaming deal, but it's not a rip-off.

ZV

 

[DougK62]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Sorry to bump this again, but I did a little research and found that the parts required would only be $200 at most. I was wondering if this may be a bargaining tool in the purchase of the car.

The guy is asking $5000 for the car, are there any experts out there who can tell me if that's reasonable considering the repairs:

-New paint job (optional I guess)
-Fix power steering
-replace balljoints
-replace front shocks

or if maybe I can talk him down a bit. Thanks again, can't thank you guys enough for the help.

In all honesty, I would pass on this car if you are not into doing a lot of work yourself. Look for something in the $10k-$15k range and you'll be MUCH happier.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Sorry to bump this again, but I did a little research and found that the parts required would only be $200 at most. I was wondering if this may be a bargaining tool in the purchase of the car.

The guy is asking $5000 for the car, are there any experts out there who can tell me if that's reasonable considering the repairs:

-New paint job (optional I guess)
-Fix power steering
-replace balljoints
-replace front shocks

or if maybe I can talk him down a bit. Thanks again, can't thank you guys enough for the help.

Well as someone that has his own classic and helped others with theirs, paint is the last thing you want to do. So don;t even think paint job for at LEAST a year. Do the engine, interior, etc... first then lastly paint and body.

As for the other stuff that is normal to be honest. that and you really need to think about replacing the rest of the hardware if you are taking the ball joints out. Like rotors, brake pads, wheel bearings, check/replace springs, control arm bushings, etc...

But all items for sale are open to offers. Make a offer and go from there.

 

[jdini76]

Its a classic car. I doubt it has the original engine in it. That is probably why the milage has a discrepancy. When it comes to registering it, just tell them what is on the odometer if they ask. Same for insureing it.

 

[AFSCrazy]

In all honesty, I would pass on this car if you are not into doing a lot of work yourself. Look for something in the $10k-$15k range and you'll be MUCH happier.

Good advice, except I'm 16 years old, not likely to get approved or want to pay a 15k loan. Nor do I have financial assistance from my parents. (I prefer it that way). I'm definately into doing the work myself, in fact a new hobby would probably be the perfect thing for me right now. Not saying it's going to be easy, but I usually enjoy learning how to put together new things.

 

[nakedfrog]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

If someone told me a car of any year (classic or not) was in "great working order" I would take that to mean daily driver condition.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

If someone told me a car of any year (classic or not) was in "great working order" I would take that to mean daily driver condition.

We are talking about a car that is over 35years old and cost 5k. Good working order means it runs and can be moved. He did not say it is perfect and "fully restored".

 

[nakedfrog]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

If someone told me a car of any year (classic or not) was in "great working order" I would take that to mean daily driver condition.

We are talking about a car that is over 35years old and cost 5k. Good working order means it runs and can be moved. He did not say it is perfect and "fully restored".

No, he didn't say it was restored, nor did I imply that he did. However, he specified "great working order," not "good working order." If I can't drive it home, it's not in great working order. Even good working order I'd expect to be able to drive home.

 

[RagingBITCH]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

If someone told me a car of any year (classic or not) was in "great working order" I would take that to mean daily driver condition.

We are talking about a car that is over 35years old and cost 5k. Good working order means it runs and can be moved. He did not say it is perfect and "fully restored".

No, he didn't say it was restored, nor did I imply that he did. However, he specified "great working order," not "good working order." If I can't drive it home, it's not in great working order. Even good working order I'd expect to be able to drive home.

I agree 100% with your interpretation. Pass on the car!

 

[funboy6942]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: AFSCrazy
Thanks a lot for the information. I have just come upon what I hope is not a big deal, because I really want this car.

I e-mailed the guy asking for VIN# and when I can test it, here is the email I recieved.

well the car is off of the road right now so you can hear it run but you will only b able to drive it up and down my street it does need some work and if you purchase it i will only sell it if it is trailered home due to it needs balljoints i do not have the vin right now off the top of my head but i will find out 4 you

I e-mailed him back asking if there are other repairs needed, as the car was listed as being in great working order. I am still awaiting a response.

Are balljoints a difficult/costly thing to replace? I have a limited budget, and a lack of car knowledge, although I do know people who can fix most things.

Thanks again.

If you are looking for a daily driver move on. Classic cars are juts that classic. It will need work and you either need to know how to work on cars or be ready to learn. Also a "good running" classic car does not mean it is ready to be taken on the road for 1000+ mile drive. Juts means for its age it can be driven small distances and able to hear and test.

With that said, ball joints are not very easy but you should be able to replace all 4 in a good weekend. Also look at replacing the shocks and check the control bushings out as well while you are in there is you do it.

LOL ball joints on that older car is a piece of cake and all you really need is a good jack, decent set of tools, grease gun, and a BFH. Shouldnt run no more then $15 a pop too. Can all be done within a matter of hours. Olny other thing I can think of doing after that is to get it re-aligned. Thats called a toe and go on that car and shouldnt be no more then $35. Get yourself a Chiltons manual for that year and your good to go. Couldnt pick a better car to learn body work or mechanics on IMO. No computerized BS just a set of points, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Just remember on a cold day your going to have to pump the pedal a few times. Its not like mom and dads car which is fuel injected 😉

While your under there make sure to look at the tie rods, center link, and ider arm. All these are sterring componants because you wont have a rack and pinion. That age im sure one or all will have to be replaced and if so its still a cheap and easy fix. And at that point will have to bring the car in for alignment but no diff in price 😉

Check all of the fuel lines, brake lines and hoses. If badly rusted that can be costly to have all the lines replaced. Not the rubber lines in the front going to the calipers or drums but the metal lines to have someone do properly can go up there well over $500 to do.

Floor pans as well. Once they start to go they go fast. Its not to bad a fix though for yourself agin if need be. Just a cutting tool, sheet metal, and a rivit gun. Dont go under there with a welder to cut or weld in the new pans though and hit a fuel line 😉

Only one bad thing I can say about the car though. Finding a power stering pump will be a bitch if it ever goes. I had my 70 ford stang back in 93 and it went. I lived in Chicago and not one junk yard had it and it cost back then $300 new. So always be on the look out for them in your local junk yard and buy them asap. Even though you may not need it now if they have them now you will need it later when they dont 🙂

Great condition can mean alot of things. Just because it may need a few cheap mechanicals and it runs perfect and looks good in and out considering that year and basing it on others in that price range great conditions may be the right term to use still.