• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACarT UPDATE: Damn light keeps turning off and on

T

TheBDB

Diamond Member
The Check Engine light in my car came on today. Some basic info about my car:

97 Mitsu Eclipse with 59,000 miles
I use synthetic oil, change every 4-5000 miles
Light has come on before, had to get the evap cap replaced
I checked the gas tank cap to see if it was not tightened

Is there anything I should do or check before I just bring it to the dealership and let them have their way with me? Could a new air filter or tuneup solve the problem? I was thinking of having it done anyways since it is nearing 60k miles. Thanks for any input.


Update: It seems every other day the light turns on or off. So, my question is does the light have to be on for the mechanic to check the code? Or can I go even if it is off and it will have a record?
 
My girlfriend took her car to autozone and they hooked the car up to a computer and told her why the light was on. Give your local Autozone a call and see if they can do the same thing. It could be something cheap that you can replace yourself.
 
Take it to Autozone, where they will pull the CEL code for free. Then you will know what's wrong.
 
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...

You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...

You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
Click to expand...
Or if you have basic soldering skills, you might be able to build one. (I did for ~$15 - it actually hooks to a laptop and does much more that just read codes.)
 
I'm cheap, but if everything seems to be acting normally, I'd just disconnect the battery for a few minutes then see if it comes back on. Then I'd check to see if your car has one of those deals where you can turn the key on/off five times or whatever to get the code to display on your dash, and look it up online.
 
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...

You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
Click to expand...
Or if you have basic soldering skills, you might be able to build one. (I did for ~$15 - it actually hooks to a laptop and does much more that just read codes.)
Click to expand...

Details? 😛
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...
You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
Click to expand...
And then refuse to tell you what the code was (bastards * 2)

Originally posted by: nakedfrog
I'm cheap, but if everything seems to be acting normally, I'd just disconnect the battery for a few minutes then see if it comes back on. Then I'd check to see if your car has one of those deals where you can turn the key on/off five times or whatever to get the code to display on your dash, and look it up online.
Click to expand...
You don't want to disconnect the battery prior to pulling the code, as that will reset the ECU and clear the code.

Those sequences you refer to only work with some OBDI vehicles. A 97 Eclipse is OBDII.
 
Originally posted by: Vic
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...
You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
Click to expand...
And then refuse to tell you what the code was (bastards * 2)
Click to expand...

I was persistent and they finally gave in and let me know. (punks)
 
Originally posted by: Kalvin00
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: TheBDB
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I never knew anyone but the dealers could check that.
Click to expand...

You can buy the reader for like $150. Dealers charge around $75 just to read the codes (bastards).
Click to expand...
Or if you have basic soldering skills, you might be able to build one. (I did for ~$15 - it actually hooks to a laptop and does much more that just read codes.)
Click to expand...

Details? 😛
Click to expand...
This is the one I built. The only problem would be finding software for the particular vehicle - I built it for my thirdgen f-body as a guy has written software for them. I'm going to build one for my Grand Prix using parts from scantool.net at some point. It's a little more expensive (~$100) but still worth it IMO. The stuff from scantool.net works with a lot of vehicles.
 
Originally posted by: Vic

Originally posted by: nakedfrog
I'm cheap, but if everything seems to be acting normally, I'd just disconnect the battery for a few minutes then see if it comes back on. Then I'd check to see if your car has one of those deals where you can turn the key on/off five times or whatever to get the code to display on your dash, and look it up online.
Click to expand...
You don't want to disconnect the battery prior to pulling the code, as that will reset the ECU and clear the code.

Those sequences you refer to only work with some OBDI vehicles. A 97 Eclipse is OBDII.
Click to expand...

Not True - My 96 Maxima (OBD-II) has a little screw on the ECU that you can turn to display the codes via the CEL (blink patterns map to certain codes).

 
Originally posted by: Vic
You don't want to disconnect the battery prior to pulling the code, as that will reset the ECU and clear the code.

Those sequences you refer to only work with some OBDI vehicles. A 97 Eclipse is OBDII.
Click to expand...

I've got an 04 Chrysler - Isn't that OBDII? I know the key trick works on mine.
 
If the check engine light came on, check your engine. You might have lost it along the road on the way home.





😛
 
There should be a code stored in the PCM even if the light's not on. Under what driving conditions exactly does the light come on? If it comes on during steady highway-type driving and goes off after you stop and restart the car, it may be EGR related.
 
I bought a generic OBDII reader on eBay for only $30. It's nothing fancy - it'll just tell you the code and then clear it. Very handy.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top