XSPC GTX 690 waterblock came in...should I RMA? See pics

Masahiro

Member
Oct 25, 2011
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Hey guys so my waterblock came in, but I noticed some issues with the mounting holes on the copper side shown below
http://db.tt/8bQDvLR8
The fourth hole not including those with raised holes on the top left and the second "row" of holes on the bottom left. Here are some zoomed in pics sorry my phone is garbage
http://db.tt/LBynMzop
That's the one up top, it's like a bit of copper, I tried gently to see if it would brush off or anything but no luck
http://db.tt/hkfr4krn
So you guys think I should rma it or it shouldn't be a problem?
Thanks for the input!
 

Grooveriding

Diamond Member
Dec 25, 2008
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Just looks like some less than good machining work. Certainly won't affect performance and can't see how it would cause leaks.

If it bothers you to the point you will get OCD on it, RMA it by all means ;) FWIW RMAs on water cooling equipment are generally a real PITA from my experience. I had to RMA an EK CPU block that had flaking nickel and it was a real pain to get it done.
 

Masahiro

Member
Oct 25, 2011
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Thanks for the input, in what way was it a pain? Has anyone else dealt with xspc rma? How long did it take. This is going on a $1000 card so you can see why I'm being cautious :p
 

Grooveriding

Diamond Member
Dec 25, 2008
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I was being denied the RMA by the first individual I was dealing with because according to him they had fixed their nickel plating process so it was my fault. The block was a couple weeks old and not run with mixed metals and just pure distilled water. It was flaking and the copper was exposed in just those few weeks.

After a few weeks of back and forth I just looked up the contact information of some of the upper management and emailed one of them and got the RMA. No idea on XSPC. I have a few of their radiators and now one of their CPU blocks and no issues. I believe they are based out of Asia though, so I'd expect a lengthy RMA process no matter how the application goes for you.
 

Viper GTS

Lifer
Oct 13, 1999
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Copper is so soft, I would just take a knife (one that you don't care too much) and give it one quick turn to remove that.

Problem solved.

Viper GTS
 

WiseUp216

Platinum Member
Mar 12, 2012
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Just a tiny burr from when the holes were tapped.

I would take a piece of sandpaper and take the burr off that way. If you're careful you won't even leave any marks on the face of the block.
 

Masahiro

Member
Oct 25, 2011
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Viper could you elaborate on one turn? XSPC being based in Asia will be a headache...

Edit: wiseup what granularity would you think?
 

WiseUp216

Platinum Member
Mar 12, 2012
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Viper could you elaborate on one turn? XSPC being based in Asia will be a headache...

Edit: wiseup what granularity would you think?


I would say something fine, like a 220 grit.

Viper is recommending that you stick the point of a knife in center of the hole and rotate 360 degrees to see if the burr gets knocked off. That is how a 'deburring tool' works.

A metal file will work, too.

Copper is easy to work with; it's just up to you how careful you want to be about scratching the face of the block.
 

Viper GTS

Lifer
Oct 13, 1999
38,107
433
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Use the knife to cut off the burr.

Put the tip in the hole, sharp edge at about the 9 position. Rotate counterclockwise with pressure.

Should take it right off. Not the best use of a knife, and if you stab yourself of course it's on you.

:)

Viper GTS