XP2200+ overclocking

[Triplefour]

well i want to anyway.
i think i had tried to overclock in the past but high cpu temperatures and crappy memory might have kept me from it.
i seem to remember though that if i pushed my board (my system specs are my signiature so that should save some bits which i have now wasted) past 133 mhz FSB(you see i wanted 333 not 266, right?) i would get the blank screen of death...
no post so i have to take the battery out for a minute then the bios goes back to lame default settings.

but is that even what i want to do? should i try changing the multiplier instead?
i just thought my ram is 3200 so i should want to run the whole system at 333 if i could...
also..my cpu stays at around 40 degrees celcius which i think is decent...but is it already too hot to overclock??

do i have to do some kind of "unlocking" i have no idea what i am talking about but i thought i saw that somewhere...
idid a search in these boards for information about xp2200 overclocking stories or whatever but didnt really find any...so thats why im posting....if anyone can give me a clue id be happy to um...try what they said and document the results here as ive seen in countless other threads .

also as a side note, i wanted to overclock my video cards too if possible...i have a ti4600 in this machine...but i also have a TNT2 (hehe) in the p2-450 and i wanted to try squeeze a lil more out of em....what program is good for that?

basically the end result is i want to play ut2003 between these 2 computers (one of them being vastly slower p2-450 192mb/tnt2-32mb) it does run on the pentium2....almost playable too...at the lowest settings and resulutions of course but i want a little more...i thought maybe if i took it to 500mhz and overclock the videocard too i might get something....am i high or just dreaming or what? :beer:

 

[Killrose]

Welcome to the AT Forums

You need to first ID your CPU. Is it a Palomino, T-bred A or T-bred B core. Check the numbers on the CPU. If it is a Palomino core, you can just about forget getting anymore from it.

Here is a neat utility to help un-lock, set voltage, ect. Here

 

[Triplefour]

wow that was quick...yeah i should have put that in there but i guess i forgot.
my processor is a thouroughbread not a palomino...
good thing too...i dont think i knew that when i bought it....

so what can you tell me now

 

[Killrose]

You should find out if you have a DLT3C or DUT3C code and a code like "AIUGA" or "JIUCB" on the black sticker on top of the processor. The ending letters I have put in bold will tell you if it is an A or B.

Pray for a DLT3C and JIUCB combo

 

[Triplefour]

damn...so i have to power down and look on the proc? theres no other lazier way??

 

[Killrose]

Yes, but I beleive there is a proggy to tell you the info, but I don't have it, or a link to it. Maybe it's somewhere at the link i provided? never checked.

 

[BlueWeasel]

Originally posted by: Killrose
Yes, but I beleive there is a proggy to tell you the info, but I don't have it, or a link to it. Maybe it's somewhere at the link i provided? never checked.

CPU-z

 

[Killrose]

Hey BlueW, isn't there another one that lists everything like in this thread here, look at the responce one member gave:here

 

[Triplefour]

i didnt see anything like that when i ran cpu-z but whatever, i took the heatsink off and looked at the chip...
there was a bunch of stuff on the black label...

AXDA2200KV3c
AIRGA0233RPBW
9247983280150


stuff that wasnt on the black label: 27291 N and there was something looked like 117
whatever...that stuff probly doenst matter....

 

[Killrose]

Sorry to tell you but it is an early T-Bred A, and you will be lucky to get much more from it, however, if you lower the multiplier by conductive painting in the guide I linked to, you can at least raise your FSB to the desired 166MHz and gain performance that way.

 

[Triplefour]

ahhh crap all my dreams gone and shattered!

so ill never be able to hit 166 ?

is it even worthwhile to try mhz incrememnts before 166?
like 160 or whatever?

and um...so my multiplier is locked? does that mean i cant change it? or what? cause i thought i could change the multiplier no problem....like from 12 or 13.5 or whatever...whats the highest the multiplier can go?


and if i do the painting thing or whatever....whats the clock x multi setting im shooting for?
166 x 13.5?

thanks again....

 

[Killrose]

You should be able to change the multiplier by using the guide I linked to. Lets say set it at 11x166MHz=1826MHz. which you CPU should handle np.

 

[Triplefour]

i cant really find my way around that site or know exactly which guide to use...could you post a more direct link?
if not ill keep l;ooking but this is starting to get really technical...can i handle this?

i saw the interactive guide that looked like my processor and i set the multiplier to 11 and fsb to 166 and it seemd to show i needed to connect ALL the pins? i dont really know how to do it though....
would having a fsb of 166 really help a lot or what?
what kind of paint do i need? and where can i get it? and um...this is dumb...but is this dangerous?

 

[Killrose]

Choose the T-bred painting guide.

 

[Killrose]

MAke sure you have (5) L3 bridges on the CPU like the guide says. What you need to do is fill all the lazer cuts up. I've used scotch tape to run on each side of the bridges, then carefully fill the lazer cuts with the superglue. Pull the tape off, and you have a really nice, superglue stripe that has filled the lazer cut troughs. Then you simply paint across (with good ol defroster repair kit paint) the lazercuts to connect the bridges that were cut (by the lazer).


It's fairly simple, and alway's works great.

 

[Triplefour]

i gotta cut into the ceramic with a knife?? man this is insane...
and plus i dont know where to get all these materiials...
if it was something that i could do without cutting anything...or doing anything that couldnt be undone...then maybe...

so are you sure theres really nothing i could do besides this? i couldnt just try raising the fsb a little? is that bad?

 

[Killrose]

I don't beleive you have to cut anything.

 

[Killrose]

First take a look at the CPU with the stock 2000+ multiplier (13.5xFSB) bridge layout. Then take a look at the layout with the 11xFSB layout. You are only filling (3) cuts (you are not cutting anything) and bridging (connecting the dots) on those (3) cuts you filled. All bridges will be connected in an 11x multiplier layout on the L3.

If you don't have good eyesight or a magnifying glass, superglue, scotchtape or conductive paint of somesort, then raising your FSB a few MHz above 133MHz is all you got.

Good luck.

 

[Triplefour]

4.) The plugging method into the CPU socket
You select "Socket view" in the interactive Pin-Mod guide, then choose the CPU and the desired multiplier or Vcore
(and maybe also the FSB to calculate the approximate frequency you'll get).
Now you can already see the socket with the respective connections for this multi.
To connect these, you take some little pieces of wire e.g. from a HDD or floppy-cable and shorten them
to 8 - 10mm pieces.
Then you put them into the shown positions and put the CPU into the Socket.
Et viola, now the CPU works with the desired multiplier.

would that method work for me too?

hmm..if i dont have to cutbut only fill...maybe i would do it...i can always unfil what i have filled right? but where do i get this stuff?

 

[Killrose]

That should work as well, though i've only used that method to up the voltage on CeleronII's, and even then I used conductive paint to make the connections. Just make sure you have the Pin Guide for T-bred XP.

"hmm..if i dont have to cutbut only fill...maybe i would do it...i can always unfil what i have filled right? but where do i get this stuff?"

You use the superglue to fill the three lazercuts. Then you would use "rear window defroster repair kit" conductive paint which you can get from NAPA or PEP Boy's($6-$7), to paint across the three lazercuts you just filled.

 

[Triplefour]

youput a bit of conductive paint on the tip of the wire before sticking them into the holes of the socket? thats like to make sure they dont move right?.....but i thought with the processor coming in ontop of that, it should squeeze the wires tight enough..i supppose the problem would be when you take it out the wires might come out and youd have to redo it....is that why the conductive paint?

and also where do i get this stuff??

 

[Triplefour]

also it seems like unlocking all the multipliers is easier than setting it to 11...should i do that?

 

[Killrose]

I would not use conductive paint on the CPU motherboard socket method. I would not use that method myself because I have used the bridge painting method only. That's the limmits of my geek modding desires.

The reason I suggest the 11xmultiplier is because there is NO CUTTING, just filling and painting across the filled lazer cuts. Also, it fits perfectly with the capabilities/limmitations of your processor using an 11x166MHz ratio.

And I guess, yes, try unlocking the multipliers and see if your Motherboard will then controll them, especially if that seems easiest.

NOT real sure on that UN-Locked info. Looks like that would require you to Cut Bridges, that is not real clear.

 

[Triplefour]

hmm...i think i see now,.,,,,the filling could be anything...it just lets me paint a line between the two to connect them....

but the socket mod seems even easier as i dont have to paint or anything...and i dont have to wait for materials...which i still dont know how to get anyway. i was wondering though...we havent said anything asbout vcore...what should i do with that if im doing the 11x166 ?

 

[Killrose]

I would not worry about Vcore, but if your motherboard has that in bios, i'd bump it .025v at least. If I had to paint it per the guide, I would set it to 1.65v because there is no cutting, only filling and painting, and you are not increasing CPU speed much over stock to warrant a big increase. Mainly, the T-bred A's would max at 1.9gig or less.