x61 vs h110

hunkeelin

Senior member
Feb 14, 2012
275
1
0
All the reviews online favored x61. My question is, is it because of the quality of the fan in x61 is better?. I was wondering if i use the same aftermarket fan on both x61 and h110. Will their performance differ?

Actually,
if I am going to replace my fans for all my AIO cuz of aesthetics, will the krakens outperform the cosairs given the same size of radiator? I'm speaking of x61 vs h110 and all other 280 rad rad AIO, along with x41 vs other 140 rad

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,644
2,030
126
You're going to get coolers with fans that are so-so, fair, good, better . . .

When I want airflow, I "take a walk on the wild side." I experiment with fans that many members wouldn't bother with. Once upon a time, it was the Delta Tri-Blade 120x38 150 CFM. Now I've deployed a Gentle Typhoon AP-30 in each of my best rigs.

I would only do this sort of thing if: (1) I can muffle any motor noise close to the source (and I can), (2) I accept a certain amount of "whoosh!" air-turbulent white-noise (and I do), and (3) I can thermally-control those fans (PWM) so that I hardly need to do either (1) or (2).

I'm not going to pontificate about either the Kraken or the H110 -- just to say that I'm neck and neck even with those coolers against my D14 and ACX heatpipes. Y'all know about the extra trouble and tedium to achieve that -- I've explained it enough.

I'll point to WGusler's project -- likely sinking to the second page of this forum's threads as readers and posters moved on. He built a 4790K box with a Corsair C70 case and an "enhanced" H80 single-fan AiO.

I will continue to maintain that what WGusler did with the H80 can apply to dual-fan AiO radiators. Even so, WGusler is more cautious about his fan choices, using AP-15's or the 2,000 RPM Noctua iPPC PWM fan. I might slap on a couple 3,000 RPM iPPC fans and trim the fan profiles after I've benched the temperatures to my satisfaction.
 

hunkeelin

Senior member
Feb 14, 2012
275
1
0
No one answer my question yet. if both AIO have the same fans will x61 still out perform h110?
 

Essence_of_War

Platinum Member
Feb 21, 2013
2,650
4
81
They're both relatively thin, relatively cheap, aluminum radiators and since they're both made my asetek, my guess is that the pump/rad/tubing are probably identical.

If you run the pumps at the same speed, and use the same fans, I'd be quite surprised if they performed substantially differently.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,644
2,030
126
No one answer my question yet. if both AIO have the same fans will x61 still out perform h110?

Sorry I focused solely on the fans. Essence is totally correct.

No matter the difference in appearance, the simple physics of the matter would make them perform more or less identically if the radiators are of the same size and material, and especially if the pumps are similar. The only way to change that with this one or that one against the other involves different fans, changing the case-size and factors that would increase the airflow through the radiator.
 

hunkeelin

Senior member
Feb 14, 2012
275
1
0
Therefore my h110 paired with noctua's will probably out perform the x61 kraken right?
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
21,077
3,577
126
Therefore my h110 paired with noctua's will probably out perform the x61 kraken right?

impossible to answer because i would need to see the base plate of the x61.

i do know the base plate on the h100 is very simple, but i dont know if they changed that on the h110.

without pictures of the unit completely disassembled it would be a very difficult question to answer.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,644
2,030
126
Therefore my h110 paired with noctua's will probably out perform the x61 kraken right?

No guarantee, but I'd predict it. Look at WGusler's C70/H80 project -- which has dropped to the second page of threads.

Of course, for predictions -- Criswell was a fake.

If it were me (and I know it isn't) -- well, let me preface by saying that there are still OC-disorder types like myself in these forums, and we got used to "ghetto-kludge" approaches to cooling-improvement. The other end of the spectrum is occupied by folks trying to water-cool every(freakin)thing with a $1,000 parts budget. But this cuts both ways, as we share experiences.

So -- what I'D do . . .

1) Try and find some rubber fan-mounts/noise-isolators that can be fitted to the radiator and fan, or something parallel. For instance, I keep a pile of those silicon-rubber "donuts" to prevent wire-chaffing in metal holes (or whatever they're used for -- an electronics warehouse will have them in package for $1-something.) I've used them as noise-isolators in this application. And I've used a pair of wire-ties for each hole, secured by the little square buckle at each end, to install fans.

2) If the case-size and space permits, attempt to install a foam-board box maybe a half-inch wide between fans and radiator.

3) Try installing the radiator itself with rubber isolators.

With the increased airflow of slightly-more-powerful fans, the right fans may have the least noise, and you can attenuate that noise by only allowing them to spin up at higher temperatures by using BIOS/software fan control and PWM fans.

4) Use something like the Swiftech PWM "splitter" so you can control more than one fan from the CPU_FAN motherboard port, powering them directly from the PSU.

A LOT OF PEOPLE AREN'T GOING TO WANT THIS TEDIUM -- OR THE EXPENSE. ME? I wouldn't hesitate . . . It's now been proven that the cooling potential of either AiO or custom radiators hasn't been pushed to the maximum, because of enthusiast-noise-fetish. But there are ways of dealing with that.

You could also buy a $7 box of Spire Foam Rubber Acoustic pads, then cut them in "donut-squares" with a 120x120mm (or 140x. . . ) square "donut-hole." Cut several; stack and glue them together. Then -- install them around the fan-shrouds. Really -- anything to isolate and kill the noise at its source -- with the right fans, there's nothing left but "white-noise-air-turbulence" like your room AC vent. I suspect the only time you'd notice much of anything, or little IF anything -- will occur while running stress-tests.

The reason for building the foam-pad constructions this way: it eliminates the mess and trouble that would arise from removing the material if glued directly to the fans. The pads come with very effective adhesive on one side -- with a wax-paper backing.

Finally, pressurize the case with greater intake than would exhaust through the radiator; seal off all air-leaks. The smaller the case, the easier this aspect gets -- but the greater the challenge of installing a two-fan AiO.

The reason for creating a (sealed) space between fans and radiator: there's less, little or no dead-spot for airflow at the fan-hub.
 

TylerS

Member
Oct 30, 2012
77
0
61
So -- what I'D do . . .

1) Try and find some rubber fan-mounts/noise-isolators that can be fitted to the radiator and fan, or something parallel. For instance, I keep a pile of those silicon-rubber "donuts" to prevent wire-chaffing in metal holes (or whatever they're used for -- an electronics warehouse will have them in package for $1-something.) I've used them as noise-isolators in this application. And I've used a pair of wire-ties for each hole, secured by the little square buckle at each end, to install fans.

2) If the case-size and space permits, attempt to install a foam-board box maybe a half-inch wide between fans and radiator.

3) Try installing the radiator itself with rubber isolators.

With the increased airflow of slightly-more-powerful fans, the right fans may have the least noise, and you can attenuate that noise by only allowing them to spin up at higher temperatures by using BIOS/software fan control and PWM fans.

4) Use something like the Swiftech PWM "splitter" so you can control more than one fan from the CPU_FAN motherboard port, powering them directly from the PSU.

A LOT OF PEOPLE AREN'T GOING TO WANT THIS TEDIUM -- OR THE EXPENSE. ME? I wouldn't hesitate . . . It's now been proven that the cooling potential of either AiO or custom radiators hasn't been pushed to the maximum, because of enthusiast-noise-fetish. But there are ways of dealing with that.

You could also buy a $7 box of Spire Foam Rubber Acoustic pads, then cut them in "donut-squares" with a 120x120mm (or 140x. . . ) square "donut-hole." Cut several; stack and glue them together. Then -- install them around the fan-shrouds. Really -- anything to isolate and kill the noise at its source -- with the right fans, there's nothing left but "white-noise-air-turbulence" like your room AC vent. I suspect the only time you'd notice much of anything, or little IF anything -- will occur while running stress-tests.

The reason for building the foam-pad constructions this way: it eliminates the mess and trouble that would arise from removing the material if glued directly to the fans. The pads come with very effective adhesive on one side -- with a wax-paper backing.

Finally, pressurize the case with greater intake than would exhaust through the radiator; seal off all air-leaks. The smaller the case, the easier this aspect gets -- but the greater the challenge of installing a two-fan AiO.

The reason for creating a (sealed) space between fans and radiator: there's less, little or no dead-spot for airflow at the fan-hub.

Do you have any pictures of any of these methods? I am intrigued and may want to do a bit of work on my AOI but I am having trouble visualizing the set-up(s). I know I am getting extra noise from my Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer and I'd love to try to isolate some of it.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,644
2,030
126
Here's my thread from last spring:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2370973&highlight=gentle+typhoon

And here's WGusler's thread about the H80, 4790K and Corsair C70 case:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2408847&highlight=c70

I may never have asked WGusler outright if he'd read other posts or threads in which I asserted that a pressurized case could help either ducted heatpipe or water-cooling. WGusler proved it in his project, after installing an Aquaero 5 fan-controller and his custom thermal-sensor applications throughout his project. At one point, he pulled the case side-panel leaving the case unpressurized, and temperatures increased.

I felt like he gave me a high-five in a PM he sent.

My own project's thread has both photos and diagrams throughout. The rubber "collar" I'd mentioned prompting further requests began as a "U-shaped" construction with both foam-board and Spire-rubber cut-out components. I added the fourth side of the donut as an afterthought.

For those who may be using components that lend themselves to the possibility, the ThermalRight "rubber-duck-tie" also provides some nominal acoustic muffling, costs about $8 and could save some trouble. On this point, its flexibility and accordion design must address the problem that all motherboards place the CPU socket in slightly different places in relation to ATX dimensions and reference points; and it must address the additional problem that all cases may have a slightly different orientation or position for the case exhaust fan.

Here's the ThermalRight duct:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/th12fandubl.html

For myself, I acquired three HAF 922's from an early intuition that large fans, lower noise and higher intake airflow would work for me. The dust problem is fairly mitigated by thermal fan control and filtering options that don't restrict airflow.

WGusler's project proves that large fans are not necessary for small cases, which are easier to pressurize with a modicum of 120 or 140mm fans with sufficient airflow.

The rubber fan mounts come in all sizes, lengths, colors and materials. Here's a handful of the generic mounts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400770235146?lpid=82&chn=ps

Look at CoolerGuys, FrozenCPU, Sidewinder Computers and other resellers for a variety of types, sizes -- prices.

The box of Spire acoustic pads would seem like enough material to completely cover the insides of any case -- possibly more than one, but I WARN AGAINST using the material this way. If you want to remove it, the adhesive is quite strong and your time will be ill-spent when you might have avoided sticking up your case-interior. Instead, careful and strategic application of the material is advised.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556014003.html


If you want to put rubber acoustic panels on significant areas (like sidepanels) of the case, cut some foam-art-board pieces with a few glue points for use with something like Pit-Crew automotive adhesive, and cut panels of Spire to the same size and shape for application to the art-board.

Art-board is cheap. You can get "Elmer's" brand at Target. Michaels Arts & Crafts has it in various colors. My last purchase of $25 went for a large, three-panel "exhibition display" of foam-board with black-paper backing. I think that purchase has provided me enough art-board for several years of application projects -- I still have some large panels in storage.

Black is a good color for certain cases, like my HAFs. You can use art-board to block off unused fan vents. You can use a hole-punch so that you can secure the board with nylon screws and nuts -- available at any electronics-jobber-warehouse or store. I've occasionally used nylon-wire-ties for the same purpose.

NIT-PICKY REFINEMENTS

I have no audio testing devices, or haven't configured any. You'll notice the somewhat anal refinement with the cork and popsicle sticks with Spire rubber on the cork. On the intake side of any fan, you CANNOT apply any Spire or anything else on the hub: the fan will likely be unbalanced and I can only speculate about dire consequences. Thus, the popsicle sticks hold the noise-deadening material at 1/4" forward the rotating fan-hub.

But on the other side of fans, you can apply foam-rubber circles one on top of the other with abandon. I call it the "Bozo's Nose" option. I even stuck a "nose" in the center of the 120mm exhaust fan vent of my case -- covering the exhaust side of the fan hub. You can decide whether such things provide acoustic improvement. I convinced myself -- somewhat. But there's really no harm in it, either. So? You have a 2-inch rubber protrusion on the back of your case -- nobody will see it or care. One of my 200mm intake fans on one system is the NZXT 166 CFM-rated model, and I THOUGHT it had a mild motor noise at its 1,300 RPM top-end. So I stuck a four-ply nose on the fixed exhaust-side part of the hub.

I "fancied" that it really helped. That fan doesn't have any sound output that's noticeable at any speed. . . .
 
Last edited: