WTF is wrong with my car???? - keep my mechanic honest pls:

[Zeze]

2003 Mazda 6i, stick shift, 110k miles

Gradually but surely, the shift won't engage. It's started to happen more often lately.. like 10% at first, and now up to 30%- which is pretty scary. This seems to happen only for 1st and 5th (last) gear.

1. I fully depress my clutch, no problems here.

2. Then I put the stick shift into the first gear.

3. I release clutch, yet the gear doesn't 'bite'. When I press gas, I find the engine going way up because it's in neutral.

What is the problem here? What's frustrating is that I already spent $450 on replacing the clutch supposedly about 40k miles ago AND spent another $320 when it happened again- two DIFFERENT mechanics.

I just want this to end. What is the problem and how much do you think it'll cost?

 

[lxskllr]

Either the linkage, or the transmission is on its way out. You don't really need first and fifth anyway. Start in second, and rev a little higher in fourth gear. You'll use more gas, but that's cheaper than a transmission if that's the problem.

 

[dud]

I was going to go with the clutch being the issue. Once owned an old Toyota Celica that would not engage in just about any gear.

 

[stormkroe]

Plates are worn, springs are worn, needs adjusted (if applicable, not familiar with that trans). In that order or likeliness.

 

[denis280]

Are you sure it's not the shifting kit.(rods and bushing)

 

[sze5003]

Have your gears ever been grinded? Sounds like the plates aren't working properly, take it to a more reputable place and have them give you their feedback. Must not be the clutch since you had that done already.

 

[imagoon]

I would actually guess the shiftgate and cables myself. It was pretty common on Mazdas in the late 80's, not sure about 2003 models.

--edit--

Also barring a broken gear / bent shift fork / worn fork. Would be pretty rare at that age unless if was abused. I know the 5th gear fork can wear out if you are a person who rests their hand on the knob in 5th while driving. Normally it would pop out of 5th first though.

 

[7window]

synchronizer?

 

[phucheneh]

You need to confirm whether or not the levers on the trans are actually moving all the way into gear or not. I would suspect not...if it works in gears 2-4 and the car seems to pulls without slipping in said gears, you've pretty much eliminated the clutch and related parts as the possible culprit.

I would pull up the plastic panel and boot around the shifter and 1) inspect for slop due to worn/damaged rubber or plastic parts then 2) follow the factory procedure for adjusting the cables (check some of the Mazda forums, someone has probably posted it).

 

[master_shake_]

IMO it does sound like quadrant cables, or a stuck shift fork...

do you hear/feel the synchro engage?

if you shift sans clutch in to first does it grind|?

not a great idea but the best way to get some feedback from the car on where the shifter actually is...

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

are you sure its not happening in 3rd as well?

If it is, then I'd say something with cables.

 

[bruceb]

Try each gear and see if the engine tries to bite when you let off the clutch. If it does in some, but not all the gears, the problem is in the shift cables / linkage or within the tranny. If it does not in any gear, then more likely an issue with the clutch. Start by having the pedal free play adjusted, as that controls how far up the pedal needs to go before it engages the clutch. And even though the clutch was replaced, did they resurface the Flywheel and replace the Pressure Plate ? ? ? Either of those can cause the problem and the Friction Disc could be worn out again (especially if it was a low cost or not top quality replacement part) .. You did get 70K miles from the last clutch job, but drivers who are proficient with manual shift can easily get 100K or more from one (my 1985 RX7 had 125K on the original clutch when it was stolen and still worked perfect)

 

[SpatiallyAware]

First things first, as phuc said, pull the shift boot off and see what the linkage/connections/cables look like. A stretched cable can cause these weird issues.

Have you changed the fluid? Primarily you're just trying to nail down whether or not this is an internal trans issue. It's not worth messing with the internals on such a common car, just have a rebuilt one installed.