Wow I'm nearly finished with all the maintenance on my car...

[halik]

So I've done both CV joint boots, front oxygen sensors, rebuilt secondary injection pump (stupid emissions crap), fixed all vacuum leaks, replaced work dump valves and burned out fuses. All I gotta do is replace the upper control arms when i put sport springs on this weekend and switch out tie rod ends.

The car is CEL free and get decent gas milage (19-20mpg city)... wooot!

 

[overst33r]

Originally posted by: halik
So I've done both CV joint boots, front oxygen sensors, rebuilt secondary injection pump (stupid emissions crap), fixed all vacuum leaks, replaced work dump valves and burned out fuses. All I gotta do is replace the upper control arms when i put sport springs on this weekend and switch out tie rod ends.

The car is CEL free and get decent gas milage (19-20mpg city)... wooot!

Assuming this is the same engine as in the S4, have the turbo's been replaced?

 

[BW86]

Nice job! My friends '00 a6 2.7t 6 spd just recently hit 140k and its running as strong as ever.. We recently took a road trip in it with 2 other people from Long Island to Key West and it was a breeze. Thats roughly 2800 miles round trip. As long as you take care of it, you'll have it for awhile.

 

[halik]

Originally posted by: mariok2006

Originally posted by: halik
So I've done both CV joint boots, front oxygen sensors, rebuilt secondary injection pump (stupid emissions crap), fixed all vacuum leaks, replaced work dump valves and burned out fuses. All I gotta do is replace the upper control arms when i put sport springs on this weekend and switch out tie rod ends.

The car is CEL free and get decent gas milage (19-20mpg city)... wooot!

Assuming this is the same engine as in the S4, have the turbo's been replaced?

Same engine, stock turbos. Timing belt done at 74K

 

[mshan]

I've got a 1999 Audi A4 1.8TQ manual with about 55,000 miles on it, and I'd like to be able to keep the car till at least 100,000 miles.

I've already replaced the timing belt, and remember being told I should replace control arms around 60,000 miles.

What other typical maintenace should I expect to need around that 60,0000 mile mark?

Also, I put a large crack into the passenger side of the windshield when the windshield wiper snapped down onto the windshield deep in winter when I was removing ice. Can't feel the crack on the surface, but i can see it increasing each time I drive the car (car flexing windshield?). Right now I'd say it is about 1 ft. long. What should it cost to replace the windshield (parts and labor)?

 

[DeviousTrap]

Originally posted by: mshan

Also, I put a large crack into the passenger side of the windshield when the windshield wiper snapped down onto the windshield deep in winter when I was removing ice. Can't feel the crack on the surface, but i can see it increasing each time I drive the car (car flexing windshield?). Right now I'd say it is about 1 ft. long. What should it cost to replace the windshield (parts and labor)?

Check with your insurance company. Usually if you get comprehensive coverage you also get glass coverage with $0 deductible.

 

[Arkaign]

Originally posted by: mshan
I've got a 1999 Audi A4 1.8TQ manual with about 55,000 miles on it, and I'd like to be able to keep the car till at least 100,000 miles.

I've already replaced the timing belt, and remember being told I should replace control arms around 60,000 miles.

What other typical maintenace should I expect to need around that 60,0000 mile mark?

Also, I put a large crack into the passenger side of the windshield when the windshield wiper snapped down onto the windshield deep in winter when I was removing ice. Can't feel the crack on the surface, but i can see it increasing each time I drive the car (car flexing windshield?). Right now I'd say it is about 1 ft. long. What should it cost to replace the windshield (parts and labor)?

Control arms? Jesus H. What kind of hassle/cost is that? Is that common to even be an item necessary to be replaced in cars these days?

 

[halik]

Originally posted by: mshan
I've got a 1999 Audi A4 1.8TQ manual with about 55,000 miles on it, and I'd like to be able to keep the car till at least 100,000 miles.

I've already replaced the timing belt, and remember being told I should replace control arms around 60,000 miles.

What other typical maintenace should I expect to need around that 60,0000 mile mark?

Also, I put a large crack into the passenger side of the windshield when the windshield wiper snapped down onto the windshield deep in winter when I was removing ice. Can't feel the crack on the surface, but i can see it increasing each time I drive the car (car flexing windshield?). Right now I'd say it is about 1 ft. long. What should it cost to replace the windshield (parts and labor)?

I actually had a windshield replaced on my old A4, cost about $150 worth of insurance deductible. As far as other maintenance goes, CV boots will go before 100K, but that something you wait for.Replace the spark plugs, clean the throttle body and MAS and replace the air filter and you're good to go.

 

[mshan]

Non-dealer Audi garage told me that something like control arms (?) wear out around 60,000 miles and need to be replaced or something will collapse (?)

Also, would cv boots start making noise when they need to be replaced, and is it something that doesn't have to be done right away? (I occaisionally make 500 mile one day trips to visit my parents in New York).

 

[AMCRambler]

I just did the LCA's on my Ford Contour last month. Man what difference in the handling and ride of the car. The bushings on one side were completely shot and the other side was worn. It wasn't too difficult though. Took me about 7 hours on a saturday. The forum I go to said about 5 hours if you've done it before, so I figure I did pretty good considering I had to make two trips to the parts/tools store.

 

[Bignate603]

If your CV boot is making noise it's time to replace it. Don't push it off because boots are cheap, CV shafts can be pretty pricey depending on the vehicle.

 

[mshan]

No, no problems.

Just wondering what I would hear or detect that would tell me it's time to change.

And if I had to, could I drive 500 miles on it (there is a non-dealer Audi Garage up where my parents live, and that would be a lot cheaper than taking it to my local Audi dealer).

 

[Bignate603]

Originally posted by: mshan
No, no problems.

Just wondering what I would hear or detect that would tell me it's time to change.

And if I had to, could I drive 500 miles on it (there is a non-dealer Audi Garage up where my parents live, and that would be a lot cheaper than taking it to my local Audi dealer).

Oh, you're asking if you could drive it home. You'll know something is bad because you'll hear it start to tick, often very loudly. I only noticed mine went bad when I was driving with my window down though. Unless Audi has made their CV shafts out of some crazy unobtanium that degrades when exposed to air it will be like any other car and will run for a while with a bad boot.. On my own car I'd drive it home. However, on my own car if I destroy a CV shaft I can get a new one for $45 as an in stock part at NAPA. Your German one will run more, most likely quite a bit more and won't be a stocked item most likely.

 

[halik]

Originally posted by: Bignate603

Originally posted by: mshan
No, no problems.

Just wondering what I would hear or detect that would tell me it's time to change.

And if I had to, could I drive 500 miles on it (there is a non-dealer Audi Garage up where my parents live, and that would be a lot cheaper than taking it to my local Audi dealer).

Oh, you're asking if you could drive it home. You'll know something is bad because you'll hear it start to tick, often very loudly. I only noticed mine went bad when I was driving with my window down though. Unless Audi has made their CV shafts out of some crazy unobtanium that degrades when exposed to air it will be like any other car and will run for a while with a bad boot.. On my own car I'd drive it home. However, on my own car if I destroy a CV shaft I can get a new one for $45 as an in stock part at NAPA. Your German one will run more, most likely quite a bit more and won't be a stocked item most likely.

ONLY if the boots are actually ripped you will have problems. There no point in replacing those unless that happens. A4 half shaft ran me little over 100 bucks new when I had to replace it.

 

[thomsbrain]

Originally posted by: halik
So I've done both CV joint boots, front oxygen sensors, rebuilt secondary injection pump (stupid emissions crap), fixed all vacuum leaks, replaced work dump valves and burned out fuses. All I gotta do is replace the upper control arms when i put sport springs on this weekend and switch out tie rod ends.

The car is CEL free and get decent gas milage (19-20mpg city)... wooot!

None of which would have needed doing if you didn't drive an Audi.