woodworkers! jointing and cabinet hinge help.

[herm0016]

put the boards good side down and in order. Space the boards just under the router bit diameter. 3/8" bit, 1/4" gap. Screw several cleats across the boards and make pencil marks for location during glue up. Flip to top side up attach a straight edge and run the router down the gap of the two boards thus jointing both sides at once. Don't forget to do the outer edges. Make sure router bit cutting depth is just beyond thickness of the boards. Unscrew cleats and line up your pencil marks for glue up. Any variation during routing will be equal on both sides of the boards.

I have a 20 foot long beam and a post in the center to wrap in blue pine, along with 3 4x4 posts to wrap for a stairway and handrails to laminate and machine. (the field here will be antique wrought iron) I am hoping to use a lock miter on the stair posts, building a box that slips over the existing, and I am planning on butt jointing the beam wrap, as with finish the edge will nearly disappear 10 feet off the floor.

I have a few hundred feet of nicely figured blue stain ponderosa pine in 1x6 and 1x4 14' feet long that is quite squirrely along its length. I plan to edge glue to laminate the pieces to get the sides of the beam and post as they are laminated 2x10s for the beam and 5 2x4s for the post.
Getting wider stock will compromise the figure as the fungus grows from the outside in and the center of the trees is usually not colored.

Will the above method work well enough to produce a good lock miter (on a router table and good edge glue up? I work from my garage and have: ridgid 3650 table saw, home made router table, several routers, and the standard stuff.

anyone make a jig for this? advantage or a certain bit size or type?

also, i was thinking.... dangerous....could you build a fence for your router similar to the "jointing with a router table" method, but move the fence and router while the work piece is stationary?

other better ways of producing a good glue up on long stock?


i am also looking for heavy duty tip out bin hinges for a dog food bin in the kitchen, would love to be able to support 50 lbs. Ill make a slide out of a piece of hickory or maple for a stop.

i posted on sawmill creek, but people there seem to be more interested in bragging about their large machines and tiny chisels than actually helping anyone.

 

[Humpy]

If I understand, you are looking to straight-line long stock before glue up?

My preferred method was a 20' long stick of 2" x 2" square aluminum tube clamped to the saw fence. This made for easy adjustments in width and did a pretty good job of producing quality glue lines. The double cut method that you quoted seems like it would work good too if the boards were straight enough to get close together to begin with.

 

[herm0016]

If I understand, you are looking to straight-line long stock before glue up?

My preferred method was a 20' long stick of 2" x 2" square aluminum tube clamped to the saw fence. This made for easy adjustments in width and did a pretty good job of producing quality glue lines. The double cut method that you quoted seems like it would work good too if the boards were straight enough to get close together to begin with.

yes, that's what I'm looking for. you did this on a table saw? interesting. I could make a jig using that on the router table, glue a strip of laminate to the outfeed side to get my offset and machine a spot for the bit in the center. I have about 200 feet of lumber to edge.

alternatively I could screw the aluminum to the board and run that along the table saw fence. then flip and make parallel. sourcing the tubing is maybe the hardest part.

 

[Humpy]

I would buy a lot of rough lumber and having the super long table saw fence allowed quick adjustments to maximize yield.

Buying the tube might be expensive for one job. I also at one point had a 1/4" x 5" x 10' piece of aluminum flat stock that I would screw to lumber to straight line it. It worked just as well but was slow and sometimes the screw holes would be a problem.

To use a router table as a jointer I would highly recommend one of the various types of hold down rollers to help keep the stock against the fence. They work a lot better than feather boards. It's pretty hard to consistently hand feed a long piece through a router table without some assistance.

 

[Humpy]

For the dog food I like a Vittles Vault or similar on a roll out shelf using Blum Tandem runners. Tip out bins are nice but they are a one trick pony where a shelf can be used for whatever.

 

[skyking]

you'll have a joint on the 20' beam anyway. I'd make some plywood rips and screw those to the backside of long boards after you cut them down to 11'. butt two rips end to end to reach.
Then put that plywood to the fence to get a good straightline on the other edge.
Plywood is relatively inexpensive and can be used for other things.
I say cut down to 11' so you have some working length to get a good cut.

 

[herm0016]

I want to offset the end joints as much as i can. Ill can cut them to aprox. length before i joint them.


i think we will go with the drawer for the dog food bin.

thanks!

 

[skyking]

Two rips will cover that too. Cheap straight edges.

 

[Humpy]

Two rips will cover that too. Cheap straight edges.

The plywood will usually work well.

I have found quite a bit of plywood with enough built in internal stresses that narrower rips will not be/stay straight. Sometimes it will be fine one day but warped the next. Just something to be aware of and check.

 

[herm0016]

ordered the lock miter bit and set up jig from infinity, a bit expensive but hopefully it will cut down on setup time.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6I5G2gWetbHSnloRnJlckZ1VlU

i finished this a few weeks ago, reclaimed bowling ally and 1 in x 2.75 walnut (custom milled!) wrapping it. finished with waterlox.

Painting the cabinet doors now and the next thing will be wrapping the beam. We tore out all the flooring, 2 walls and have gotten most of the new hickory down (save for 2 small bedrooms) and the kitchen all in. bought the house in Sept. and starting tearing walls out in Oct. all but building the cabinets was done by my wife and I.

 

[herm0016]

The plywood will usually work well.

I have found quite a bit of plywood with enough built in internal stresses that narrower rips will not be/stay straight. Sometimes it will be fine one day but warped the next. Just something to be aware of and check.

i will take a look around, i may be able to get a 14 foot steel stud from my bro-inlaw, he does commercial construction.