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wiring a home network

garytoh

Junior Member
Hello,

I just bought a house and want to add a network to it. I will be networking 8 rooms. I want to eventually set up a file server and possibly.. dvr solution, ip phones, and security cameras.
I don't have any experience in doing this but I am going to attempt to learn and run the cables and terminate myself

I guess my 1st question is should i go with cat 5e or 6a? I read that you have to be careful with 6 not to bend it during installation. I want speed and i want it to be useful well into the future.

also do i need to worry about fire/safety concerns with either when wiring a residential house?
I want it to be up to code.

and any recommendations on a site to buy supplies and tools.

thanks,


 
I think Cat 5e is sufficient for most people, at least for the next several years, by the time faster home networking is practical you'd probably want something that is better than cat 6 anyway.

Figure out where you want your server to be and run all the wires to that location and terminate at a patch panel, it's generally not recommended to try and crimp an RJ45 plug to terminate in wall wiring because a bad crimp is more likely than a bad punch down. I just wired my home for cat 5e and used keystone jacks, wall plates and a patch panel from Monoprice.com, they've got the best prices you'll find. If you don't already have a long, flexible shank drill bit I'd suggest buying one before starting the job, I didn't and looking back I could have saved myself several trips through the crawl space if I had. I used the blue plastic "old work" electrical boxes, but there are more expensive orange boxes that are made specifically for low voltage applications such as Ethernet, either will work, and are pretty simple to install. The blue boxes have a tab that holds the wire from pulling out of the box, for regular high voltage wiring the code says that the wire needs to be secured within so many inches of the electrical box, the tab satisfies the code, but for low voltage the code doesn't specify so I bent the tab back and out of the way, it made pulling the cable a lot easier. If you've got money to spend invest in a good punch down tool that trims the excess wire as well as doing the punch down, it'll save you some time. If you are on a budget, you'll probably find a cheap plastic punch down tool that is included with the keystone jacks and/or your patch panel. Use that cheap tool and a utility knife to trim off the excess wire, I don't anticipate using a punch down tool enough to justify the $50+ cost, after installing the last jack I started thinking how nice it would have been to have the right tool though. I used a sharp knife to strip the cable jacket and probably wouldn't spend money on a stripper designed specifically for Ethernet cable.

As far as I know there are no fire/safety concerns with Ethernet wiring, it's low voltage and considered pretty harmless if it fails or is improperly installed. If you plan on running the wiring through heating ducts for some reason you do need to use plenum rated cable. Standard cable has a PVC jacket that releases toxic fumes when burned, the plenum rated cable is supposed to be less dangerous when it burns. I can't think of any reason to run cables through heating ducts in a residential installation.

While I was at work running Ethernet I went ahead and pulled an extra cable and installed an RJ11 style keystone jack for telephone, I figured for now it's nice to replace all the surface mount boxes in the house with nice flush mount jacks, I've only used 1 of the newly installed phone jacks, but if I find a need for additional Ethernet jacks in a particular room I already have wiring I can use, I'll just have to change the keystone jack to an RJ 45 and move the termination to the patch panel.
 
Cat6 for sure. Granted you won't see the benefit today, but you won't want to do it again even 10 years later so get the best available possible.
 
If you're going to wire your home do Cat6a and Cat6a only. 10 gig over copper is going to be in the home faster than one thinks. If you screw up the terminations and don't meet spec then at least you can always reterminate.

rule #1 of running cable - run the best cable you can, you can always reterminate but you can't re-pull.
 
Originally posted by: morkman100
How much more difficult is it to run CAT6 vs. CAT5E (a typical 1-story house with an attic)?

That's a good question, I never have seen a good list of differences between the two standards, I have heard things like it's tough to get good terminations and you have to be really careful not to make too sharp a bend, but I don't know exactly how much more care has to be taken in the terminations or what radius would be considered too small.

I doubt there would be much difference in pulling the cable, both cables are pretty much the same on the outside, the hardest part is crawling through the attic.
 
Keeping the twist to 1/4 inch or less up to the punchdown is one of the differences along with gauge of the wire. Really in this day and age cat5e is pretty much dead. It's cat6 or 6a only. That will support 10 gig.
 
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