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Will this HS/fan fit on AsusK7M???

B

BenSkywalker

Diamond Member
This is the combo, I have on of the older K7Ms with the PS connector directly in front of the CPU, can someone tell me if this will fit?

Planning on picking up a TBird either 800 or 900, and want to improve the cooling a bit(though unlikely to OC, you don't want to crash in the middle of a twenty hour render😉).

Thanks for any help in advance🙂

For that matter, does anyone know where to find a BIOS for the K7M that supports T-Birds? I'd be pretty annoyed to finally get this and find out I have to return it for a "Classic"😱
 
Since it's a T-bird it doesn't have the off die cache chips, and therefore you shouldn't need a HS that would even come close to the PS connector...a version of that with just the middle orb part should do fine.

Something more like this. Except that's for a P3...

As for BIOS, I'm not totally sure but the latest on Asus's site is dated August 1st so I imagine that'd be the one to go for. The 132 is the latest
 
Ben
That should fit fine,(and do a hell of a job!) I have the K7M also and by looking at it, the most you may have to trim slightly is the right highest fin on the cache cooler. As the T-Bird doesn't have off-die cache it wouldn't hurt anything to remove or trim a fin.
 
Fits the K7M like the cat's pajamas. Option: put a dab of adhesive where the fan's wires exit the fins to prevent chafing and shorting the mobo.
 
Great idea Budman. I have a brand new one still in the box that's listed over on Anand's ForSale BBS. Posted 9/7 or just do a quickie search for "Artic".
 
As far as the BIOS goes, when you have an older BIOS version that doesn't know what the TBird is, it just loads as AMD unknown or something like that. Flashing the BIOS then makes it say AMD Athlon. I don't know what the first version that officially supported it was, but I have the newest version from http://www.asus.com and it works fine.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, before you flash the BIOS, it still works, it just doesn't display the right name.
 
Thank you all for the replies🙂

Zeeliv/Budman-

I can get a free extended warranty by using the particular combo I linked to, since it is an OEM part I figure it is worth it to buy it. The other option they have is a more traditional HS/fan combo and my case runs a bit warm as it is(GF DDR, 7200RPM etc). May not seem like much, but having a year instead of 30-90 days makes me feel a bit more comfortable.


Danlz-

"Fits the K7M like the cat's pajamas. Option: put a dab of adhesive where the fan's wires exit the fins to prevent chafing and shorting the mobo."

Hmm, what's that about adhesive and the wires? I haven't seen one in person, perhaps I'll understand when I get my hands on it, but shorting out the mobo I have no problem comprehending and that makes me a bit nervous, is it just a cord length issue?

Deeko-

"As far as the BIOS goes, when you have an older BIOS version that doesn't know what the TBird is, it just loads as AMD unknown or something like that. Flashing the BIOS then makes it say AMD Athlon."

Had the same problem with the BIOS failing to recognize the chip when I first built this. The BIOS was old, October or November of last year, and I had a K75(.18u) Athlon. I could care less if the chip posts properly, but my K75 550 pushed a whopping 23FPS in Quake1 Timedemo1 at 640x480... Quake3 gave me a warning that I only had a 83MHZ processor and I was lucky to see 5FPS. Are there performance issues if the BIOS isn't updated? Currently I'm running the January beta BIOS and haven't had any problems for nearly a year, so if no update is needed then I would just as soon forget it.

I had forgotten that the Irongate mobos already supported T-Birds(the video cards alone are getting hard enough to keep everything straight on😉) until after I posted this.

CRV-

Trim the part down? How does this thing mount? I'll just remove the cache cooler portions of the HS if they will be a problem and it will still mount properly.

Thanks again everyone for your replies🙂

 
Ben
With the case still on the T-Bird all you do is attach it with a lever or similiar mechanism to move and clamp the 4 hooks into the heatplate.

You are correct, if the right side cache cooler touches the M.B. power connector then you can remove the cache cooler.
I might trim it if it was only a little as it looks kinda cool with them on. 🙂

What I think Danlz was talking about (and he can jump in here and correct me) is the wires on some of these style of coolers have been known to chafe on the sharp fin edges after a while (vibration?), causing a short, or possibly blowing a fan header.
A little glue or adhesive where the wires exit the fins would help and also what you could do is to go to Radio Shack and pickup some shrink tubing, cut a short section and slit it to slide on the wire into the fins a little, then shrink the end down with a match. (2 layers if you like)
 
Mine worked just fine with the original BIOS, I didn't have any performance issues. I flashed the BIOS with the newest one, just in case. What version of the BIOS do you have now? I checked the site, and 1008 extends above the 850 mhz range, so if it's before that and you get about an 850, you may need to flash. Here's the link to the SlotA download page. http://www.asus.com/Products/Motherboard/bios_slota.html

EDIT: Forgot to add, I have an 800, so the above 850 thing doesn't apply to me.
 
The chafing issue surfaced on Sept 11, 2000 at HardOCP:news archive
My email response :"Thanks for the tip about the wires chafing between the fins! Now I know what that dab of silicone glue is for on my HP Polar Logic from Montac. Another subject concerning the Thermaltake Orb: Last weekend, I bought one (from a large retail chain in the SF Bay area) for my new Slot-A TBird. I was checking out the clip mechanism by dry-fitting, and noticed that there was a gap big enough to drive a truck through, OK, maybe not a truck, but the gap was at least 0.010 of an inch! Turns out that the Orb was bent concave so that it was contacting the ends of the TBird's backing plate (where those cache chips used to live). I think it was a manufacturing process that bent the Orb because I could not see any evidence of tampering. Anyway, I went out to the workbench and straightened the Orb and now there is no daylight (or trucks) between the Orb and TBird. I don't know if this was a one-only occurance or if Thermaltake has another problem!"

Note: My Thermaltake Orb died from bearing failure 3 weeks after purchase and returned to the B&M store for refund. I know there's thousands of happy ORB's in use, mine must'a been a lemon!
 
Interesting Danlz
Good reason to check the H.S. surface with a straightedge first, then dry fit them and hold up to a strong light.
 
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