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Will all bike wheels fit all frames?

Yes... usually the slots the wheels clamp to on the frame are the same size. I'd be very surprised if they wouldn't fit.
 
Assuming you don't have disc brakes, those wheels should fit. Does the rear cassette from your broken wheel still work? The one on craigslist might not work with your rear derailleur and shifter.
 
Originally posted by: kalrith
Assuming you don't have disc brakes, those wheels should fit. Does the rear cassette from your broken wheel still work? The one on craigslist might not work with your rear derailleur and shifter.

And if it doesn't you need to get it off, which is a pain with the proper tools most of the time.
 
Some questions......does your bike's rear wheel use a quick release or bolt-on rear axle? Does your bike use a cassette or freewheel? While they may look a lot alike, they are completely different animals. How many speeds (gears) does your rear wheel have? How many does the one on craigslist have? Certain gear combos are not compatible with each other (cannot mix 9spd. stuff with 7spd stuff, etc.)

Are your wheels' rims steel or aluminum? Most steel rimmed wheels are much wider than aluminum rimmed wheels and won't fit the braking systems without either a lot of adjusting or completely changing them.

As for getting a cassette/freewheel off, they're very easy to get off and on, provided you have the proper tools.....cassette lockring tool, chainwhip and an adjustable wrench. Freewheels are about the same, but instead of using a chainwhip, I have found putting the freewheel tool into a vise and then putting the wheel onto the tool and unmounting the cluster the easiest way.....just unscrews off the wheel.

Just because both wheels are 26" diameter, doesn't mean they'll automatically fit any bike frame.......many other variables involved.
 
The only thing that is broken with the wheel is the center part of the wheel where the axle would go through. The rest is a-ok. BTW thanks all for the follow ups! 🙂
 
Originally posted by: gingerstewart55
Some questions......does your bike's rear wheel use a quick release or bolt-on rear axle? Does your bike use a cassette or freewheel? While they may look a lot alike, they are completely different animals. How many speeds (gears) does your rear wheel have? How many does the one on craigslist have? Certain gear combos are not compatible with each other (cannot mix 9spd. stuff with 7spd stuff, etc.)

Are your wheels' rims steel or aluminum? Most steel rimmed wheels are much wider than aluminum rimmed wheels and won't fit the braking systems without either a lot of adjusting or completely changing them.

As for getting a cassette/freewheel off, they're very easy to get off and on, provided you have the proper tools.....cassette lockring tool, chainwhip and an adjustable wrench. Freewheels are about the same, but instead of using a chainwhip, I have found putting the freewheel tool into a vise and then putting the wheel onto the tool and unmounting the cluster the easiest way.....just unscrews off the wheel.

Just because both wheels are 26" diameter, doesn't mean they'll automatically fit any bike frame.......many other variables involved.

A lot of mtb rims are actually much wider than older rims. I had a late 1990s Trek mtb and made the mistake of buying a set of wheels that came with wide rims and couldn't use them on my bike without changing the brakes (V-brakes) so I returned the rims.
 
Originally posted by: gingerstewart55
Some questions......does your bike's rear wheel use a quick release or bolt-on rear axle? Does your bike use a cassette or freewheel? While they may look a lot alike, they are completely different animals. How many speeds (gears) does your rear wheel have? How many does the one on craigslist have? Certain gear combos are not compatible with each other (cannot mix 9spd. stuff with 7spd stuff, etc.)

Are your wheels' rims steel or aluminum? Most steel rimmed wheels are much wider than aluminum rimmed wheels and won't fit the braking systems without either a lot of adjusting or completely changing them.

As for getting a cassette/freewheel off, they're very easy to get off and on, provided you have the proper tools.....cassette lockring tool, chainwhip and an adjustable wrench. Freewheels are about the same, but instead of using a chainwhip, I have found putting the freewheel tool into a vise and then putting the wheel onto the tool and unmounting the cluster the easiest way.....just unscrews off the wheel.

Just because both wheels are 26" diameter, doesn't mean they'll automatically fit any bike frame.......many other variables involved.

The rear wheel is bolted on with 7 gears. This is the type of gear I have. As for the wheels I have no idea what they're made out of.
 
I'm guessing by "axel" the OP means the Q/R skewer, which means the axels itself is broken.
I would say just get it replaced rather than gambling. It shouldn't be that much $$$ unless you have some higher end cartdige bearing hubset, which, based on your knowledge etc (no offense) you likely do not have.

 
Originally posted by: dudeman007
Originally posted by: gingerstewart55
Some questions......does your bike's rear wheel use a quick release or bolt-on rear axle? Does your bike use a cassette or freewheel? While they may look a lot alike, they are completely different animals. How many speeds (gears) does your rear wheel have? How many does the one on craigslist have? Certain gear combos are not compatible with each other (cannot mix 9spd. stuff with 7spd stuff, etc.)

Are your wheels' rims steel or aluminum? Most steel rimmed wheels are much wider than aluminum rimmed wheels and won't fit the braking systems without either a lot of adjusting or completely changing them.

As for getting a cassette/freewheel off, they're very easy to get off and on, provided you have the proper tools.....cassette lockring tool, chainwhip and an adjustable wrench. Freewheels are about the same, but instead of using a chainwhip, I have found putting the freewheel tool into a vise and then putting the wheel onto the tool and unmounting the cluster the easiest way.....just unscrews off the wheel.

Just because both wheels are 26" diameter, doesn't mean they'll automatically fit any bike frame.......many other variables involved.

The rear wheel is bolted on with 7 gears. This is the type of gear I have. As for the wheels I have no idea what they're made out of.

That is a Freewheel (are you sure that's what you actually have and just not a 7 speed cassette?) Either way you are either going to ahve to buy the tools to remove and reinstall the gear cluster, or pay a shop to do it for you.

As I previously stated, if its just your axle that is snapped, have it replaced. Too many variables in buying some set off of CL blindly.

 
Originally posted by: Homerboy
Originally posted by: dudeman007
Originally posted by: gingerstewart55
Some questions......does your bike's rear wheel use a quick release or bolt-on rear axle? Does your bike use a cassette or freewheel? While they may look a lot alike, they are completely different animals. How many speeds (gears) does your rear wheel have? How many does the one on craigslist have? Certain gear combos are not compatible with each other (cannot mix 9spd. stuff with 7spd stuff, etc.)

Are your wheels' rims steel or aluminum? Most steel rimmed wheels are much wider than aluminum rimmed wheels and won't fit the braking systems without either a lot of adjusting or completely changing them.

As for getting a cassette/freewheel off, they're very easy to get off and on, provided you have the proper tools.....cassette lockring tool, chainwhip and an adjustable wrench. Freewheels are about the same, but instead of using a chainwhip, I have found putting the freewheel tool into a vise and then putting the wheel onto the tool and unmounting the cluster the easiest way.....just unscrews off the wheel.

Just because both wheels are 26" diameter, doesn't mean they'll automatically fit any bike frame.......many other variables involved.

The rear wheel is bolted on with 7 gears. This is the type of gear I have. As for the wheels I have no idea what they're made out of.

That is a Freewheel (are you sure that's what you actually have and just not a 7 speed cassette?) Either way you are either going to ahve to buy the tools to remove and reinstall the gear cluster, or pay a shop to do it for you.

As I previously stated, if its just your axle that is snapped, have it replaced. Too many variables in buying some set off of CL blindly.
I am definitely sure that's what I have, because I've checked the model numbers. Anyways it's the internal housing inside where the axle goes that is messed up. An axle can't stay inside the wheel without rattling around significantly. I don't have the tools to take it all apart so I can't tell you exactly what's going on...however it looks like there is some type of washer stuck inside the center of the wheel that keeps the axle aligned.

 
but by "axle" do you mean the Q/R Skewer?

All said and done, you are likely better off going to a bike store and just getting the hub rebuilt versus TRYING to find a compatible replacement online AND in turn having to go to a shop anyways to have the F/W transfered

 
It should fit. Looks like those wheels have a 7-speed cassette, which should work with your shifters (may require some adjustment). If you're worried, just ask if you can try it on your bike before you buy. Go to where wheels are. Slap new rear wheel on your bike, which should just take seconds. If they fit, hand over the $40.

 
Originally posted by: Homerboy
but by "axle" do you mean the Q/R Skewer?

All said and done, you are likely better off going to a bike store and just getting the hub rebuilt versus TRYING to find a compatible replacement online AND in turn having to go to a shop anyways to have the F/W transfered

sometimes bike shops will not even mess with rebuilding hubs though, its easier, faster, and sometimes cheaper just to replace the wheel.

although if you do take it to a shop, they will probably be able to match your rim pretty well. Especially if it is just a generic mtb wheel. (note i didnt look at the pictures of your wheel)

 
Originally posted by: antyler
Originally posted by: Homerboy
but by "axle" do you mean the Q/R Skewer?

All said and done, you are likely better off going to a bike store and just getting the hub rebuilt versus TRYING to find a compatible replacement online AND in turn having to go to a shop anyways to have the F/W transfered

sometimes bike shops will not even mess with rebuilding hubs though, its easier, faster, and sometimes cheaper just to replace the wheel.

although if you do take it to a shop, they will probably be able to match your rim pretty well. Especially if it is just a generic mtb wheel. (note i didnt look at the pictures of your wheel)

I've never seen nor heard of a shop that wont rebuild. It does depend on the quality of the wheel/hub in question though to decide if its worth it. In some cases it maybe more economical to just replace the wheel(s) in question and thats what the shop will end up doing and suggesting.

 
Originally posted by: Homerboy
Originally posted by: antyler
Originally posted by: Homerboy
but by "axle" do you mean the Q/R Skewer?

All said and done, you are likely better off going to a bike store and just getting the hub rebuilt versus TRYING to find a compatible replacement online AND in turn having to go to a shop anyways to have the F/W transfered

sometimes bike shops will not even mess with rebuilding hubs though, its easier, faster, and sometimes cheaper just to replace the wheel.

although if you do take it to a shop, they will probably be able to match your rim pretty well. Especially if it is just a generic mtb wheel. (note i didnt look at the pictures of your wheel)

I've never seen nor heard of a shop that wont rebuild. It does depend on the quality of the wheel/hub in question though to decide if its worth it. In some cases it maybe more economical to just replace the wheel(s) in question and thats what the shop will end up doing and suggesting.

thats basically what i was getting at. My pops owns a local shop here, and in my several years there, I can remember once or twice where it was better for the customer to just purchase a new wheel/set of wheels, rather than having the hub rebuilt. Although, unless my memory fails me, it was with older (more complicated) wheels.
 
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
Looks like an easy fix as it's just cup and cone. Take it to your LBS and have them fix it for less than $40.

WIN!

Sweet. Well I'll take it into one of the bike shops near campus and have them take a look. Hopefully it'll be a cheap fix and an end to the problem.
 
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