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why should I change my cap and rotor on the distributor?

H

holden j caufield

Diamond Member
um yeah I drive a honda and after about 100,000 miles I haven't changed it, nor the fuel filter. Everything runs fine, idles fine, MPG is good is there any reason to change it. My brother changes his every other year and says it's a must. ?
 
Originally posted by: holden j caufield
um yeah I drive a honda and after about 100,000 miles I haven't changed it, nor the fuel filter. Everything runs fine, idles fine, MPG is good is there any reason to change it. My brother changes his every other year and says it's a must. ?
Click to expand...

'cause the Honda says so holden j caufield! 😛
 
Originally posted by: holden j caufield
LOL uh I'm hoping for a more compelling reason. I asked my brother why I should if it's running and he just shrugged and said I should
Click to expand...

/me waits for your, "My reliable Honda died on the side of the road because I didn't keep up w/ the recommended regular scheduled maintenance" thread holden j caufield 😛
 
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
Click to expand...

You're joking right ZV? 😕
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
Click to expand...


Huh....😕
 
Guys, check out this dude's posting history. He's the cheapest bastard ever for one, and his car lost 80,000 miles in the last week also.
 
What can happen is corrosion builds up on the contact points on the rotor and cap, and can reduce the spark energy going to the spark plugs. If you don't want to change them, you could take them off, lightly sand any corrosion off, and clean them up with some alcohol.
 
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
Click to expand...
You're joking right ZV? 😕
Click to expand...
Nope. Car will run without having it changed. It's sub-optimal, by a decent amount, but it's not going to do any major damage to his car.

Worst case scenario is a slightly dirty fuel-injector. Nothing that a new filter and a couple tanks of techron won't cure if it comes to that.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Insane3D
What can happen is corrosion builds up on the contact points on the rotor and cap, and can reduce the spark energy going to the spark plugs. If you don't want to change them, you could take them off, lightly sand any corrosion off, and clean them up with some alcohol.
Click to expand...
If there's corrosion, it's not sealing and needs to be replaced. The cap should seal out moisture and the grease will prevent corrosion.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
Click to expand...
You're joking right ZV? 😕
Click to expand...
Nope. Car will run without having it changed. It's sub-optimal, by a decent amount, but it's not going to do any major damage to his car.

Worst case scenario is a slightly dirty fuel-injector. Nothing that a new filter and a couple tanks of techron won't cure if it comes to that.

ZV
Click to expand...

I disagree. Sure the car will still run, but if it's decently clogged, you will be putting more strain on the fuel pump trying to pull gas through a dirty filter.
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No reason.

Unless it's leaking and letting moisture into the distributor there's no reason to change the cap and rotor (though they should always be replaced as a pair.

Fuel filter is a good idea at 100K, but not "necessary". It's like the air filter. You really won't notice an issue with it even as it ages because the change is so gradual.

ZV
Click to expand...
You're joking right ZV? 😕
Click to expand...
Nope. Car will run without having it changed. It's sub-optimal, by a decent amount, but it's not going to do any major damage to his car.

Worst case scenario is a slightly dirty fuel-injector. Nothing that a new filter and a couple tanks of techron won't cure if it comes to that.

ZV
Click to expand...

Do you really believe what you're posting ZV? I'm 😕
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Insane3D
What can happen is corrosion builds up on the contact points on the rotor and cap, and can reduce the spark energy going to the spark plugs. If you don't want to change them, you could take them off, lightly sand any corrosion off, and clean them up with some alcohol.
Click to expand...
If there's corrosion, it's not sealing and needs to be replaced. The cap should seal out moisture and the grease will prevent corrosion.

ZV
Click to expand...

Nope...

Cap and rotors aren't airtight...and there is no grease on the internal contact points on a new cap and rotor...at least not on the ones I've seen. Condensation...dirt...etc.
 
Originally posted by: holden j caufield
um yeah I drive a honda and after about 100,000 miles I haven't changed it, nor the fuel filter. Everything runs fine, idles fine, MPG is good is there any reason to change it. My brother changes his every other year and says it's a must. ?
Click to expand...


Does your car even have a distributor? My Saturn has 224,000 miles and it has no distributor, it's all electronic. What year is your car?
 
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Most newer cars don't anymore...
Click to expand...


This guy says he has 100,000 miles, but last week he made a post saying he had 180,000 miles. He also never said what year his car is. Sometimes people just get smart ideas to change parts which don't exist or don't need changing. My girlfriend had a 1980 Oldsmobile diesel and she wanted me to change the spark plugs. In exchange she'd cook me a steak. The steak was pretty good.
 
On cars that have them, a cap and rotor is not a bad idea to change...

It's not usually so bad that you need to, but it's one of those things that can't hurt. If I'm doing plugs and wires on a vehicle, I'll usually do the cap and rotor at the same time since they are fairly cheap.

For the Mustang, a nice performance Accel one is prolly about ~$12.
 
I'll tell you how to figure out if you need a new cap and/or spark plug wires:

1. Take your car to a VERY dark area (inside a closed garage would be fine)
2. Open the hood
3. Start the car (make sure the emergency brake is on or it's in park)
4. Look under the hood (be carefull of the fan.....it is dark you know 🙂 )
5. If you see sparks coming from the cap and/or wires.....YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO REPLACE THEM (these 'sparks' will probably be a little hard to see)!!!

I asked a mechanic the exact same question when I was 18 (i'm 34) and had a honda with over 100k. He showed me this 'trick' and I was amazed at how much energy was lost due to a cracked rotor or old wires. Lost spark means that your engine is either working harder to burn the fuel or it is just passing the fuel on to your Catalytic converter (either way means a loss of MPG). Needless to say....I now make sure that my wires/cap/rotor are changed at LEAST every other year.

CLIFFS:
1. Just change them

SDC

PS: Make sure you only run the car for a few seconds inside that closed garage...wouldn't want a post from your parents tomorrow accusing us of 'killing you'. 😀
 
Originally posted by: 91TTZ
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Most newer cars don't anymore...
Click to expand...


This guy says he has 100,000 miles, but last week he made a post saying he had 180,000 miles. He also never said what year his car is. Sometimes people just get smart ideas to change parts which don't exist or don't need changing. My girlfriend had a 1980 Oldsmobile diesel and she wanted me to change the spark plugs. In exchange she'd cook me a steak. The steak was pretty good.
Click to expand...

Einstein, I said I haven't changed it in 100k. Got changed at 80k before. Nice that I've got some loser keeping track of my mileage. I actually do own another car but since I've got so many miles on it I'm going to see how far I can go on the same engine and tranny. Plus this car gets far better mileage so it's my daily driver that I'm trying to squeeze the most out of.

 
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Cap and rotors aren't airtight...and there is no grease on the internal contact points on a new cap and rotor...at least not on the ones I've seen. Condensation...dirt...etc.
Click to expand...
Yes, they are. They won't hold pressure, but they absolutely do seal out ambient air. If they didn't, moisture would get in and the car would run like absolute sh!t on any remotely humid day. That's why when the cap cracks it needs to be replaced. There is an o-ring seal at the base and the rubber boots on the wires seal at the terminals. Also, no-one with even half a brain assembles _anything_ electrical without greasing or oiling it to prevent corrosion.

As for the filter, yes I really mean what I'm saying. It's not something I follow on my own cars, but for a "disposable" car it'll still probably run another 100K miles even with a dirty fuel filter. It's not a critical issue.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: 91TTZ
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Most newer cars don't anymore...
Click to expand...


This guy says he has 100,000 miles, but last week he made a post saying he had 180,000 miles. He also never said what year his car is. Sometimes people just get smart ideas to change parts which don't exist or don't need changing. My girlfriend had a 1980 Oldsmobile diesel and she wanted me to change the spark plugs. In exchange she'd cook me a steak. The steak was pretty good.
Click to expand...
He didn't say it has 100,000 miles, he said "after driving it 100,000 miles."

 
Originally posted by: holden j caufield
Originally posted by: 91TTZ
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Most newer cars don't anymore...
Click to expand...


This guy says he has 100,000 miles, but last week he made a post saying he had 180,000 miles. He also never said what year his car is. Sometimes people just get smart ideas to change parts which don't exist or don't need changing. My girlfriend had a 1980 Oldsmobile diesel and she wanted me to change the spark plugs. In exchange she'd cook me a steak. The steak was pretty good.
Click to expand...

Einstein, I said I haven't changed it in 100k. Got changed at 80k before. Nice that I've got some loser keeping track of my mileage. I actually do own another car but since I've got so many miles on it I'm going to see how far I can go on the same engine and tranny. Plus this car gets far better mileage so it's my daily driver that I'm trying to squeeze the most out of.
Click to expand...

That changes everything IMO holden j caufield.
 
Originally posted by: SupaDupaCheez
I'll tell you how to figure out if you need a new cap and/or spark plug wires:

1. Take your car to a VERY dark area (inside a closed garage would be fine)
2. Open the hood
3. Start the car (make sure the emergency brake is on or it's in park)
4. Look under the hood (be carefull of the fan.....it is dark you know 🙂 )
5. If you see sparks coming from the cap and/or wires.....YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO REPLACE THEM (these 'sparks' will probably be a little hard to see)!!!

I asked a mechanic the exact same question when I was 18 (i'm 34) and had a honda with over 100k. He showed me this 'trick' and I was amazed at how much energy was lost due to a cracked rotor or old wires. Lost spark means that your engine is either working harder to burn the fuel or it is just passing the fuel on to your Catalytic converter (either way means a loss of MPG). Needless to say....I now make sure that my wires/cap/rotor are changed at LEAST every other year.

CLIFFS:
1. Just change them

SDC

PS: Make sure you only run the car for a few seconds inside that closed garage...wouldn't want a post from your parents tomorrow accusing us of 'killing you'. 😀
Click to expand...

LOL thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try tomm. I just hate taking it to the shop down the road as they always "make up" stuff. I don't mind working on it, as it gives me some pride in my car. But of course I'd much rather not do it all.

 
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