Who here knows how to get the best price on a new car?

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
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I saw a Chevy Cobalt SS in town today and was like 'whoa'. I knew I wanted one to add to my N20 powered Firebird Formula but was wondering if there are any tricks to the trade to getting the best possible price on a new car?

Its a pretty nice car, looks frickin hot on the outside and inside.. nice 18 or 19inch rims on it.. its def the car I want for my daily driver.

 

Colt45

Lifer
Apr 18, 2001
19,720
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wait a month until they've lost half their value

buy one with 3000mi on the clock.
 

EatSpam

Diamond Member
May 1, 2005
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Look at the Saturn Ion Redline... same powertrain and I think they have good incentives.
 

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
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Originally posted by: Colt45
wait a month until they've lost half their value

buy one with 3000mi on the clock.

good idea.

hopefully someone will default on the loan or something and cant make payments.. and i'll buy it from them. i have about 50K saved up so I can hand some desperate guy 19K in hundreds and he'll prob poop himself.
that would be a really good price for one of these. :D


another mans misfortune is my benefit! :thumbsup:

buying new is a losing game all around. you are so right.
 

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
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Originally posted by: EatSpam
Look at the Saturn Ion Redline... same powertrain and I think they have good incentives.

those are freakin awesome. im kind of a chevy man at heart though.

im going to look into those, because they gave those more stock HP.. those bastards.
edit- i guess they didnt! i swore i read they were giving the ion redline 245HP.

still a freakin BEAUTIFUL car (ion redline that is)
 

EatSpam

Diamond Member
May 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: housecat
Originally posted by: EatSpam
Look at the Saturn Ion Redline... same powertrain and I think they have good incentives.

those are freakin awesome. im kind of a chevy man at heart though.

im going to look into those, because they gave those more stock HP.. those bastards.

Hmm, I thought they were the same. I have a Redline and it is pretty sweet. Around here, the Saturn dealer is a lot better regarded than the Chevy dealer, so that helped my decision too.
 

EatSpam

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May 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: housecat
u know i do have a relative that owns a saturn dealership out in kentucky..

If you go with the Redline, see if you can get the version with the LSD. I bought an '04, so it wasn't an option. Limitied slip is very helpful on a powerful FWD car.
 

EatSpam

Diamond Member
May 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: sniperruff
buying an american at MSRP is like buying a dell without a sale.

I doubt he would pay MSRP anyway. I sure didn't. I wouldn't buy foreign at MSRP either. The American equivalent is just as good and will end up costing thousands less overall.
 

yokomo

Golden Member
Oct 18, 2000
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Save your money have cash in hand and find some one that can get you one at an auto auction... usually like 1/2 price..
 

housecat

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Oct 20, 2004
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Originally posted by: EatSpam
Originally posted by: sniperruff
buying an american at MSRP is like buying a dell without a sale.

I doubt he would pay MSRP anyway. I sure didn't. I wouldn't buy foreign at MSRP either. The American equivalent is just as good and will end up costing thousands less overall.

Just as good? How about better?
Ever worked on a Chevy then a foreign?

GOD I HATED my Nissan! Even the interior was ching-chong-chang.. so freakin small and just felt like it was built for a 5'3" man.

I prefer small block chevy 5.7liter engines or the 3.8liter V6.. freakin awesome motors.
This factory supercharged ecotec thing is the first 4cy that has me interested in something smaller than the 3.8 v6 they put in a whole bunch of cars.

I buy american not only for this, but because I'd rather be buying an American CEOs yacht than a Japanese man's.
Plus, in the end.. the American companies pay more taxes to the US gov't.. theres no way around that after you factor in how many union families they support, and how many ppl they are supporting on retirement (of which all that income is being spent here in america as well).

Beyond that, I'm proud to be American.. why wouldnt I buy American whenever possible unless I was a traitor? Its not like they arent quality/price competitive.
Traitor is a strong word, but still you wouldnt see George Washington in a freakin Toyota.. promise you that much.

I dont even think Jesus would drive one. :p
 

Garion

Platinum Member
Apr 23, 2001
2,331
7
81
How to get a good deal on a car, or at least what has worked well for me in the past.

1: Look around on the Internet at dealers in your area - You'll often find one that has a special "Internet deal" of "$xxx over/under invoice". Call them up, make sure it's legit and get a quote for a car like the one you want. Otherwise, call around a bit and find the lowest price in the area. You'll often find someone that's willing to sell it cheap for a simple, easy transaction without needing to mess with test drives, etc. Always be sure to "ask for a quote" and make sure they understand you are checking 4-5 other dealerships, too.

2: If you're going to finance it, arrange your own financing. Check your bank, eloan, or get pre-approved at www.chevrolet.com. Do everything you can to get your $$ in order ahead of time.

3: Research the current incentives on the car. Make sure you understand what the incentives are. Remember they are from the factory, NOT from the dealership. They shouldn't be included in any deal you make with the dealer. The incentives just drop the price of the car $xxx once you've made your deal. In this case, there aren't any on the SS, so that's probably a moot point.

4: Call ahead to the dealership and find out the name of the Internet Sales Manager or the Fleet Sales manager. They are used to the no-hassle take-it-or-leave-it deal.

5: Go into the dealership on the LAST DAY of the month. Dealerships are always more eager to make one last sale for the month to boost their numbers.

6: Tell them that dealership X (from #1) offered you a car at $xxx over/under invoice but that you'd rather buy from them if they can beat the offer. I usually throw them some kind of a bone and say something like "A friend of mine bought his XXX car here and really likes it and recommended your dealership. The other dealership wasn't very friendly, so I thought I'd swing by here to see if we can work a deal before I go up there to buy the car"

7: If they want something (like a license or credit card when you take a test drive or keys to test drive your car) get everything back immediately when they are done. Don't start negogiating while they have something of yours to hold you there.

8: If they can't or won't meet the price, don't negogiate. Thank them for their time and their offer and tell them that you're going to go to the other dealership to buy the car and turn around and walk out. This is why you don't want them to have your keys or anything else.

9: Chances are, they will come running after you and try to make a deal. Be prepared to walk away. If they won't beat the best deal, chances are the dealership you find in #1 will be able to do an inventory transfer of the car you want, anyhow. Go buy it there.

One note - Financing in hand is good since there's less paperwork at the dealership but occasionally the dealership CAN get you a better rate, plus they often get a kickback and might be able to cut you a better deal on the car.

When I bought my Maxima (2005 SL, in January) I found a place that advertised that they would sell it for $700 under invoice, but they were about 100 miles away. I went to the close, local dealership and they matched their price and gave me a few other bennies (free oil changes, etc.) to boot. Worked out nicely, little fuss.

If you take anything away from this post, #5 and #7 are the most important things. Last day of the month is key, and never, never let them keep your keys, credit card, driver's license, etc.

- G
 

zoiks

Lifer
Jan 13, 2000
11,787
3
81
Originally posted by: housecat
Originally posted by: EatSpam
Originally posted by: sniperruff
buying an american at MSRP is like buying a dell without a sale.

I doubt he would pay MSRP anyway. I sure didn't. I wouldn't buy foreign at MSRP either. The American equivalent is just as good and will end up costing thousands less overall.

Just as good? How about better?
Ever worked on a Chevy then a foreign?

GOD I HATED my Nissan! Even the interior was ching-chong-chang.. so freakin small and just felt like it was built for a 5'3" man.

I prefer small block chevy 5.7liter engines or the 3.8liter V6.. freakin awesome motors.
This factory supercharged ecotec thing is the first 4cy that has me interested in something smaller than the 3.8 v6 they put in a whole bunch of cars.

I buy american not only for this, but because I'd rather be buying an American CEOs yacht than a Japanese man's.
Plus, in the end.. the American companies pay more taxes to the US gov't.. theres no way around that after you factor in how many union families they support, and how many ppl they are supporting on retirement (of which all that income is being spent here in america as well).

Beyond that, I'm proud to be American.. why wouldnt I buy American whenever possible unless I was a traitor? Its not like they arent quality/price competitive.
Traitor is a strong word, but still you wouldnt see George Washington in a freakin Toyota.. promise you that much.

I dont even think Jesus would drive one. :p


Amen.

 

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
1,426
0
0
Originally posted by: Garion
How to get a good deal on a car, or at least what has worked well for me in the past.

1: Look around on the Internet at dealers in your area - You'll often find one that has a special "Internet deal" of "$xxx over/under invoice". Call them up, make sure it's legit and get a quote for a car like the one you want. Otherwise, call around a bit and find the lowest price in the area. You'll often find someone that's willing to sell it cheap for a simple, easy transaction without needing to mess with test drives, etc. Always be sure to "ask for a quote" and make sure they understand you are checking 4-5 other dealerships, too.

2: If you're going to finance it, arrange your own financing. Check your bank, eloan, or get pre-approved at www.chevrolet.com. Do everything you can to get your $$ in order ahead of time.

3: Research the current incentives on the car. Make sure you understand what the incentives are. Remember they are from the factory, NOT from the dealership. They shouldn't be included in any deal you make with the dealer. The incentives just drop the price of the car $xxx once you've made your deal. In this case, there aren't any on the SS, so that's probably a moot point.

4: Call ahead to the dealership and find out the name of the Internet Sales Manager or the Fleet Sales manager. They are used to the no-hassle take-it-or-leave-it deal.

5: Go into the dealership on the LAST DAY of the month. Dealerships are always more eager to make one last sale for the month to boost their numbers.

6: Tell them that dealership X (from #1) offered you a car at $xxx over/under invoice but that you'd rather buy from them if they can beat the offer. I usually throw them some kind of a bone and say something like "A friend of mine bought his XXX car here and really likes it and recommended your dealership. The other dealership wasn't very friendly, so I thought I'd swing by here to see if we can work a deal before I go up there to buy the car"

7: If they want something (like a license or credit card when you take a test drive or keys to test drive your car) get everything back immediately when they are done. Don't start negogiating while they have something of yours to hold you there.

8: If they can't or won't meet the price, don't negogiate. Thank them for their time and their offer and tell them that you're going to go to the other dealership to buy the car and turn around and walk out. This is why you don't want them to have your keys or anything else.

9: Chances are, they will come running after you and try to make a deal. Be prepared to walk away. If they won't beat the best deal, chances are the dealership you find in #1 will be able to do an inventory transfer of the car you want, anyhow. Go buy it there.

One note - Financing in hand is good since there's less paperwork at the dealership but occasionally the dealership CAN get you a better rate, plus they often get a kickback and might be able to cut you a better deal on the car.

When I bought my Maxima (2005 SL, in January) I found a place that advertised that they would sell it for $700 under invoice, but they were about 100 miles away. I went to the close, local dealership and they matched their price and gave me a few other bennies (free oil changes, etc.) to boot. Worked out nicely, little fuss.

If you take anything away from this post, #5 and #7 are the most important things. Last day of the month is key, and never, never let them keep your keys, credit card, driver's license, etc.

- G

That list is freakin awesome.

Wow. I hope alot of ppl read that. You know how to deal.
I think the "willing to walk out" part is key. And being able to say NO. And not letting someone push a piece of paper and pen in your face and being able to not take that pen and sign.

I've done this alot of time to people in various jobs and it works.
Push the paper across the table, and hold the pen out to them. Half the time it works because people don't have the balls to say no.
Its nearly amazing IMO. People really are so incredibly weak, you just need to exploit it.

Car dealerships are masters of this though, hence I need advice.. they have so many little tricks beyond my old "SIGN NOW" trick its not even funny.

I'm sure they love to make it easy for you to have a friendly transaction where you smile, you sign, they hand you a bag of popcorn as they get your vehicle ready and you drive off a dumbass. LOL

I might see if some of these Cobalt SS cars are already up for sale by someone who failed to pay the payments. Otherwise I might call up the wifes cousin who owns that dealership in kentucky..
but I'm a pretty ardent chevy man.. only the beautiful looks of my firebird drew me away from buying a camaro instead when I bought that.

If I have to deal with the dealer.. fine but what a PITA.

3: Research the current incentives on the car. Make sure you understand what the incentives are. Remember they are from the factory, NOT from the dealership. They shouldn't be included in any deal you make with the dealer. The incentives just drop the price of the car $xxx once you've made your deal. In this case, there aren't any on the SS, so that's probably a moot point.
I'm glad (kinda) that i dont have to worry about this.. I've heard of this before, them trying to keep the price higher for the dealer's cut of the deal by pretending the manufacturer rebates are somehow from the dealer. Bastards.



The thing that pisses me off is that I went to the dealer today, wanted to see a SS right?
Well he took me in, and wanted to setup an appointment to see one, which I did.. then he took me into the next room and there was one..
grrr.
Needless to say I'm not showing up for that appointment on monday. All I asked for, and all i wanted was to see one up close.. and yep, its a badass ride for sure.

When I buy it, I'm not doing any test drives.. no monkey business at all.

A family friend bought a car this way: went in and negotiated a low cash hands down price. Then came back with a car to trade in and wanted book value off that cash-in-hand deal that was made!
Needless to say the dealer was pissed. But relunctantly did the deal I guess.
They couldnt fudge around with the numbers that way. He also said thats what hes paying, including tax title and license.. everything, car out the door.

I think that is another thing, when you get him to agree to that final price.. say that you want that to include tax, title transfer, everything.. not a dime more.. figure it in however you need too.




All in all, its a huge PITA to buy a car these days, and get a "half way" decent deal.. even then the value drops so damn fast its nearly disgusting.

I guess if you get a decent deal, maybe the car will retain the value you paid for it even AFTER you drive it off the lot. As they say it drops $1000 or more the second you drive it off the lot.

Awesome list, and it really got me thinking. (and not just how much of a PITA this really is)
but the wife approved of a new car, so I'm good in the REALLY difficult negotiation department.
 

freebee

Diamond Member
Dec 30, 2000
4,043
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0
Nothing wrong with buying American. But GM in general is going down the tubes. On an objective level, their quality and performance simply are not competitive with the current marketplace.

The cobalt is a crappy car. And while I'm no fan of chrysler (can't be while i'm on ford's payroll), the neon srt4 is probably the best buy in the lower-price performance category. Buy that one instead, and god bless america.
 

RbSX

Diamond Member
Jan 18, 2002
8,351
1
76
Originally posted by: housecat
Originally posted by: Colt45
wait a month until they've lost half their value

buy one with 3000mi on the clock.

good idea.

hopefully someone will default on the loan or something and cant make payments.. and i'll buy it from them. i have about 50K saved up so I can hand some desperate guy 19K in hundreds and he'll prob poop himself.
that would be a really good price for one of these. :D


another mans misfortune is my benefit! :thumbsup:

buying new is a losing game all around. you are so right.


If I were you I'd check out the Acura RSX, since the Cobalt SS is a blatant rip off. The RSX retains alot of value and it looks and handles great.
 

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
1,426
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0
ford and GM are both in trouble. chrysler rid themselves of their union problems when they sold out to the krauts.
I know both are hurting not only from the news, but my uncle is the head of ford motor finance (which is the real breadwinner for ford). and my cousin is a f-150 engineer.
but no way would i buy a dodge neon over the cobalt. the dodge neon is the crappy one dude. they have had all kinds of problems with those.
I'm scared of the base model, let alone the one where they strapped a supercharger on the front of it or turbo.. yikes.

the cobalt platform is awesome, they are using the motor in racing and its putting out 1000HP (blowers of course). this is exactly what GM needed IMO, besides a revised camaro.
its an awesome car, and the SS is great. from the research ive done i stand in direct contrast to the idea that the dodge neon is better.

besides we know the neon sucks from the troubles they've had. you cant possibly say the cobalt sucks, its hardly hit the pavement yet. thats a biased comment man.
in its segment, the SS is one of the fastest cars. certainly faster than any civic from the factory.

i dont know if you missed it, but im a chevy guy all the way.
 

housecat

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
1,426
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Originally posted by: RyanSengara

If I were you I'd check out the Acura RSX, since the Cobalt SS is a blatant rip off. The RSX retains alot of value and it looks and handles great.

Originally posted by: housecat
i dont know if you missed it, but im a chevy guy all the way.

and it will be cold day in hell before i buy another foreign car.

check yer ching-chong-chang and your nazi-mobiles at the door plz. not interested.

---

Check your bigotry at the door on your way out, and do not come back for two weeks.

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