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Who here is good with car stereo installs?

JoLLyRoGer

Diamond Member
I've got a wierd problem going on. I've installed several systems in the past, but never seen anything like this. I put a couple of JL jubs in my truck last night with a PPI PC2200 amplifier. I'm running it from my factory head unit and no I don't want to replace the factory head unit. The instructions with the amplifier say that I can run high level inputs but I had to make RCA plugs out of some speaker wire and connectors since the amp doesn't have a place to accept speaker wires. I repeat, this is how the instructions say to run high level inputs. The other end of these fabricated RCA wires is hooked up to where my rear speakers used to be.

The amp is always on. Since I didn't have a remote turn on form the head unit, I wired the remote wire straight to the 12v battery input to the amp. Everything runs fine except that when I turn off the ignition key and turn it back on, the stereo won't play at all unless I unplug one or both (it doesn't matter, it can be any combination) of the RCA's into the amplifier after the truck is running and then plug them back in. Then everything comes to life.

It doesn't seem to matter if the radio is on or off when I do this, and it doesn't matter if I turn the radio off before I turn off the truck. My only guess is that it's some sort of protection circuitry built into my factory deck. What leads me to believe this is the fact that not even the front speakers will play (which are still factory, I've never touched them) until I do the little RCA trick I mentioned above. I'm pretty stumped with this one.

Any Ideas?
 
Put a switch into your remote line (you can mount it somewhere on the dash) and switch it when you want the amp to come on - see if that helps the other problem too.
 

It sounds like a grounding problem. I don't know if they still do, but Ford used to
wire thier ground goofy like in thier audio systems. I used to have problems with
them, but this was like 10 years ago. Make sure your amp is properly grounded,
and make sure your RCA cables aren't causing a short to ground.

Another thing to consider; you can buy an adapter that will reduce the audio in
to the same level that a good deck with RCA out will have. At least you used
to be able to buy them.

DD
 
Well, here's the update. I called PPI and gave them my truck's info. Apparently these newer Ford factory stereo's (I haven't done an install since '96 when I used to work for Mike's Cartunes) have outboard amplifiers which causes an inpedance mismatch. The guy at PPI said that I would have to use an adaptor to correct the problem.

I took a little trip to a nearby car audio store and showed the head installer there what was going on and he concurred with out any prior knowledge of the conversation I had with the PPI rep. I haven't reconfigured the adaptor yet, but I'm hoping this will work.

I'll keep y'all posted.
 
hook up the remote wire to the accessory wire found in the wiring diagram of your vehicle. it should show you what color it is and splice that into the remote wire of the amp. so when your ignition is on, it'll turn on the amp from there, that's what i used for my car with the factory headunit. as far as the rca outputs, did you get a lineout converter? it makes things a lot more simpler and it only costs about 15.00 for a single one. it will take your two rear speakers and convert it to a processable signal for your amp.
 
I picked up the line level converter and this appeared to fix the problem (installed it during lunch). I plan on rewiring the remote wire to the amp, but I was in a hurry to listen to some tunes last night so I went the easy route. Anyway, problem seems to be solved now. Thanks for those who replied.
 
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