• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Which SSD to choose?

Both of those are SATA II drives. Which means they're limited to 300mbps. Get a SATA III drive for $20 more than the Intel, if you can afford it.
 
Ken g6 said:
Both of those are SATA II drives. Which means they're limited to 300mbps. Get a SATA III drive for $20 more than the Intel, if you can afford it.
Click to expand...
Wow...thank you for the suggestion, looks great!

Now I guess my question would be, do I need to enable ACHI in BIOS before installing Windows to get all I can out of it?
 
Last edited:
CDC Mail Guy said:
Wow...thank you for the suggestion, looks great!

Now I guess my question would be, do I need to enable ACHI in BIOS before installing Windows to get all I can out of it?
Click to expand...

Agree with Ken on the M4.

You do need to enable AHCI to get the most out of the drive. There is a method of editing the registry so that you can enable AHCI after the fact if you need to.
 
mfenn said:
Agree with Ken on the M4.

You do need to enable AHCI to get the most out of the drive. There is a method of editing the registry so that you can enable AHCI after the fact if you need to.
Click to expand...
I tried it on the 80GB Intel disk I have now, because AS SSD Benchmark showed pciide as being bad. I googled it, and found out why. In the registry change, it was something about changing the default value of 3 to 0 or something like that. I tried changing the BIOS to AHCI, but Windows wouldn't load. Not too worried about it now, but want to make sure I do for the new drive when I get it. Thank you.
 
Last edited:
CDC Mail Guy said:
I tried it on the 80GB Intel disk I have now, because AS SSD Benchmark showed pciide as being bad. I googled it, and found out why. In the registry change, it was something about changing the default value of 3 to 0 or something like that. I tried changing the BIOS to AHCI, but Windows wouldn't load. Not too worried about it now, but want to make sure I do for the new drive when I get it. Thank you.
Click to expand...

You have to change the AHCI value (link) before you change the BIOS setting. Basically, you are telling Windows that it is OK to load the AHCI driver earlier in the boot process.
 
Before I do anything else as far as this computer goes, I HAVE to figure out why I am getting a CONSTANT loud beep from the internal speaker. Everything is running smooth, I am still getting awesome frames in BF3 and Black Ops, and all temps are ok (low 30's)

after resetting BIOS to load optimized defaults, and back to no overclock, I just unplugged the speaker when it continued.

If all else fails, I will find the CMOS jumper and go that route to see if that fixes it.

Thanks for the link mfenn, I will give that a try.
 
mfenn said:
You have to change the AHCI value (link) before you change the BIOS setting. Basically, you are telling Windows that it is OK to load the AHCI driver earlier in the boot process.
Click to expand...
Okay....so now I have turned my computer into a BRICK...a very heavy paperweight or doorstop.

I installed the "fix" from the link....checked the registry settings to make sure value was set at 0. Then went into BIOS and changed the setting to ACHI. Now it wont start, says the Operating System is missing 🙁

It isn't letting me back into BIOS, and when I Ctrl, Alt, Delete, after starting it just does the same thing....goes to Loading Operating System and then to Missing Operating System.

EDIT: Fixed after having to clear CMOS. Boots now...please disregard.
 
Last edited:
Remobz said:
Now things got more confusing🙁

I need a 120gb SSD and now what to pick?
Click to expand...

I think after reading that you just want to avoid asynchronus NAND MLC drives, such as the OCZ Agility Series and Corsair Force 3.

The other thing is that many of these drives are also using the SandForce 2200 class controller, which has its own host of reliability problems.

Bottom Line: If you're looking for sandforce powered drives, go with OCZ Vertext 3 or Corsair Force GT series.

If you aren't, and are looking for one of the more reliable drives, this doesn't change anything with respect to the Intel 320 / 520 or the Crucial M4 (fairly sure the M4 is using Synchronous).
 
Major Update:

so, I got the 128GB Crucial M4 yesterday, installed it this morning, along with Windows 7 64, did the registry change to 0 (I think most ppl will know what I am talking about)

Then, I re-booted, changed BIOS to ACHI instead of IDE. Now it won't boot, but it shows on the screen (after the BIOS version)

ACHI Drive Init...
ID Devise Attached
_______________________________________________________________________

0 M4-CT128M4SSD <S.M.A.R.T. OK>_

There is a "blinking" cursor there, but I cannot do anything with the keyboard at all. I ASSUME that I just hit enter....but it does NOTHING. I just wound up turning offf my computer by the power button and went to work 🙁

Okay, smart people...what do I do NOW???? 🙂

Thanks in advance
 
try a windows repair with the install disk?
 
CDC Mail Guy said:
Before I do anything else as far as this computer goes, I HAVE to figure out why I am getting a CONSTANT loud beep from the internal speaker.
Click to expand...
You said your D14 is "silent"; if that's a passive config or using really low rpm fans you might have to set the CPU Fan speed sensor to disabled in the BIOS to get it to stop beeping. (Unplugging the speaker works too, though.)
 
CDC Mail Guy said:
Major Update:

so, I got the 128GB Crucial M4 yesterday, installed it this morning, along with Windows 7 64, did the registry change to 0 (I think most ppl will know what I am talking about)

Then, I re-booted, changed BIOS to ACHI instead of IDE. Now it won't boot, but it shows on the screen (after the BIOS version)

ACHI Drive Init...
ID Devise Attached
_______________________________________________________________________

0 M4-CT128M4SSD <S.M.A.R.T. OK>_

There is a "blinking" cursor there, but I cannot do anything with the keyboard at all. I ASSUME that I just hit enter....but it does NOTHING. I just wound up turning offf my computer by the power button and went to work 🙁

Okay, smart people...what do I do NOW???? 🙂

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Try switching back to IDE, then doing this?
 
kevinsbane said:
Try switching back to IDE, then doing this?
Click to expand...
Okay, I will try that. I did the steps from the following page

http://www.ithinkdiff.com/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7-rc-after-installation/

Then...."After this you’ll have to restart your computer, go to BIOS and enable AHCI. When you log in to Windows again, you’ll notice the installation of drivers for AHCI."

But although I successfully change the registry value to 0, and re-boot and go into BIOS and change to ACHI...that is when the above mentioned problem happens, and it will not boot 🙁

Question though...is ACHI REALLY that much better in performance over IDE??? If not, I will just keep this in IDE mode. It is still way faster than my old SATAII Intel SSD.
 
deimos3428 said:
You said your D14 is "silent"; if that's a passive config or using really low rpm fans you might have to set the CPU Fan speed sensor to disabled in the BIOS to get it to stop beeping. (Unplugging the speaker works too, though.)
Click to expand...
Yeah, that was resolved. The fans are SLOW and silent, and somehow am not getting the beeping anymore 🙂 at least ONE good thing out of all of this 🙂
 
CDC Mail Guy said:
Okay, I will try that. I did the steps from the following page

http://www.ithinkdiff.com/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7-rc-after-installation/

Then...."After this you’ll have to restart your computer, go to BIOS and enable AHCI. When you log in to Windows again, you’ll notice the installation of drivers for AHCI."

But although I successfully change the registry value to 0, and re-boot and go into BIOS and change to ACHI...that is when the above mentioned problem happens, and it will not boot 🙁

Question though...is ACHI REALLY that much better in performance over IDE??? If not, I will just keep this in IDE mode. It is still way faster than my old SATAII Intel SSD.
Click to expand...

AHCI is really that much better. I originally installed my x25m g2 with my i7 920 build 2 years ago in ide mode, and I never bothered to fix it. While I was messing around with overclocking/SRT + OS on ssd/etc with my new 2500k, I accidentally installed windows in ahci mode. It was a lot faster, enough so that I was disappointed when I found out that I had to use raid mode instead of ahci if I wanted cache + os on the same ssd.
 
bryanW1995 said:
AHCI is really that much better. I originally installed my x25m g2 with my i7 920 build 2 years ago in ide mode, and I never bothered to fix it. While I was messing around with overclocking/SRT + OS on ssd/etc with my new 2500k, I accidentally installed windows in ahci mode. It was a lot faster, enough so that I was disappointed when I found out that I had to use raid mode instead of ahci if I wanted cache + os on the same ssd.
Click to expand...
I really really really wish you knew how you accidentally did it 🙁
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top