Which is more important, sway bar or control rod bushings?

[Elixer]

Which is more important to fix ASAP, sway bar or control rod bushings?

I went to a mechanic, and they said a sway bar ($340 + labor) is more important to the safety of the car. I went to another one, and they said, the bushings ($150 + labor).

The sway bar is broken, and the bushings cause a grinding type noise on bumps/turns.

Which mechanic is correct?

(This is for a '99 Grand Prix)

 

[Ferzerp]

If it were me, I would replace the bushings first, if you can't replace both.

The sway bar is already broken. It isn't likely to cause additional problems, and the car is driveable without it. When the bushings fail (if it is grinding already though...?), you're going to have more parts that need replaced and *must* be replaced if you don't address it immediately.


Lack of a sway bar just makes the car handle a bit worse.

 

[Elixer]

Yeah, that is how I was thinking.
I just have to wait for next paycheck next month, before I can get the sway bar fixed.

Well, it isn't always grinding, but, it does on some big bumps or tight turns.

 

[Viperoni]

Definitely the control arm bushings; the sway bar helps to limit lean in corners, whereas the control arm actually connects the spindle/wheel to the car.

It might save you a bit to get both done at the same time though.

 

[Elixer]

The 2nd mechanic said, he was going to try and scrounge around junk yards for a sway bar, though, he mentioned that the sway bars GM used were hollow, and that is why so many of them failed.
The difference in cost is around $200 or so.

 

[Ferzerp]

rockauto seems to have compatible replacements for pretty cheap (under $100)

 

[GoodRevrnd]

You should save at least an hour on labor doing both of these at once...

 

[JEDIYoda]

or you could ask the Goodrevrnd to lay hands on the car and it might heal itself......

 

[slag]

I replaced the sway bar on my sister's 2001 grand prix about a year ago as it was rusted through and broken. Do the bushings 1st and sway bar 2nd. I went aftermarket with a solid one and it felt substantially better than the hollow stock one that rusted throug right where the metal was stamped flat where it bolted up to the car.

 

[Kelvrick]

I just wanted to chime in that the just because a sway bar is hollow or solid doesn't make it good or bad. In fact, hollow swaybars are often preferred because of weight savings compared to the rigidity that they offer.

Is this a front or rear sway bar? Most rear sway bars I have experience with can be changed out without even lifting the car up with a set of wrenches. The front sometimes will require more work to get in and around other parts in the front of the car.

I'd go ahead and get the bushings replaced and just remove the bar completely to keep it from potentially breaking anything else. A friend/buddy with a sawzaw can make removing it even easier to weave smaller pieces out from the engine parts.

EDIT: I definitely would not pay 300 for a sway bar. $50, to $100 at most. I don't think you (op) are looking for anything fancy.

 

[Elixer]

I just wanted to chime in that the just because a sway bar is hollow or solid doesn't make it good or bad. In fact, hollow swaybars are often preferred because of weight savings compared to the rigidity that they offer.

Is this a front or rear sway bar? Most rear sway bars I have experience with can be changed out without even lifting the car up with a set of wrenches. The front sometimes will require more work to get in and around other parts in the front of the car.

The front one is broken.

I'd go ahead and get the bushings replaced and just remove the bar completely to keep it from potentially breaking anything else. A friend/buddy with a sawzaw can make removing it even easier to weave smaller pieces out from the engine parts.

EDIT: I definitely would not pay 300 for a sway bar. $50, to $100 at most. I don't think you (op) are looking for anything fancy.

Right, I don't need anything fancy, and I didn't even think to just remove the front sway bar.
I would have thought that handling would be bad?

The person that drives it the most does mostly city driving, with under 9K miles a year. The car only has 80K miles on it now.

 

[Ferzerp]

I would have thought that handling would be bad?

You said it's broken. If it's broken it is doing absolutely nothing now anyway. It's already handling exactly the same as it would if you just removed the broken pieces.

 

[Elixer]

You said it's broken. If it's broken it is doing absolutely nothing now anyway. It's already handling exactly the same as it would if you just removed the broken pieces.

Good point, it is just sitting there in two pieces, don't see how the broken bar could work itself loose from looking at it up on the lift.
Guess I'll ask the guy about that.

 

[BUTCH1]

I replaced the sway bar on my sister's 2001 grand prix about a year ago as it was rusted through and broken. Do the bushings 1st and sway bar 2nd. I went aftermarket with a solid one and it felt substantially better than the hollow stock one that rusted throug right where the metal was stamped flat where it bolted up to the car.

I have an '05 Malibu, GM suspensions are junk IMO, 2-3 years after they roll off the line the rattling and popping noises start. My previous car was a '95 Escort (based off the Mazda Protege) and it had much bigger struts and overall a much better suspension system.