• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Which DSLR - Canon XS for $499 (NEW) or Canon XSi for $549 (REFURB)?

Page 3 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Originally posted by: stuman74
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the green box is fully automatic. I used to use that all the time with my older point and shoot camera. I feel like I've graduated to "P" so far, and hope to learn even more about better understanding all of the other custom settings you mentioned.

Once you get used to the camera, you might find that Av (aperture priority) is the most useful mode. I use this mode 95% of the time since it is like P, but lets me control aperture (and thus depth of field) very easily without having to do a program shift.
 
Originally posted by: 996GT2
Originally posted by: stuman74
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the green box is fully automatic. I used to use that all the time with my older point and shoot camera. I feel like I've graduated to "P" so far, and hope to learn even more about better understanding all of the other custom settings you mentioned.

Once you get used to the camera, you might find that Av (aperture priority) is the most useful mode. I use this mode 95% of the time since it is like P, but lets me control aperture (and thus depth of field) very easily without having to do a program shift.

I'm an Av guy, too.
 
So my friend did pick up a D90 for himself (body only) and he indicated that he may keep the Nikon 2170 lens for use with the D90.

I'm happy with my Canon XS so far, but I think I'll still take some side-by-side shots tomorrow night using the D80 (with the 2170 lens).

If he was at $400 for the D80 plus lens before, what would be fair for just the D80 body? $300?

The only reason then I'm considering that D80 route still is, then I can buy my own lens (preferably with VR). The ones I would consider are:

2176 AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR
2179 AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR
2162 AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

From what I read, I think all 3 of these work with the D80, correct?

 
Originally posted by: stuman74
From what I read, I think all 3 of these work with the D80, correct?

Any Nikon AF or AF-S lens will work with the D80 (this includes DX and non-DX lenses).
 
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: soydios

I just don't understand why, with the advent of digital and easily-blown highlights, that camera makers haven't added a "highlight metering" mode which exposes right up to the highlights, aka "to the right" on the histogram, but keeps any channels from blowing out. This shouldn't be difficult at all. Naturally this would increase the amount of work that must be done in post-processing, but the most definition in a RAW file is right before the channels clip, by virtue of the fact that the Analog-to-Digital converters are linear while photography exposure is exponential.

atm the camera isn't monitoring the sensor in real time to find out if it's clipping or not. it's thought the next big thing may be for the sensor, once a well is full, to clear the well, roll a counter, and then continue exposure for the requisite amount of time.

It's just that with 420 or 1005 metering areas, depending on what level camera that you buy, the metering process could account for one of the areas being drastically brighter than the rest and compensating for it accordingly. Essentially, meter so that the brightest area gets fully, but not over, exposed. They could even be smart and do it by color, so that the color channel of the brightest area gets fully (but not over) exposed.
 
Originally posted by: stuman74
So my friend did pick up a D90 for himself (body only) and he indicated that he may keep the Nikon 2170 lens for use with the D90.

I'm happy with my Canon XS so far, but I think I'll still take some side-by-side shots tomorrow night using the D80 (with the 2170 lens).

If he was at $400 for the D80 plus lens before, what would be fair for just the D80 body? $300?

The only reason then I'm considering that D80 route still is, then I can buy my own lens (preferably with VR). The ones I would consider are:

2176 AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR
2179 AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR
2162 AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

From what I read, I think all 3 of these work with the D80, correct?

Any feedback if $300 is a fair price for this without the lens (previously would have been $400 with the lens)?
 
Originally posted by: stuman74
Any feedback if $300 is a fair price for this without the lens (previously would have been $400 with the lens)?

Yes, it's fair, assuming that it comes with a battery and charger and is in good condition, which it sounds like it is.
 
Originally posted by: soydios
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: soydios

I just don't understand why, with the advent of digital and easily-blown highlights, that camera makers haven't added a "highlight metering" mode which exposes right up to the highlights, aka "to the right" on the histogram, but keeps any channels from blowing out. This shouldn't be difficult at all. Naturally this would increase the amount of work that must be done in post-processing, but the most definition in a RAW file is right before the channels clip, by virtue of the fact that the Analog-to-Digital converters are linear while photography exposure is exponential.

atm the camera isn't monitoring the sensor in real time to find out if it's clipping or not. it's thought the next big thing may be for the sensor, once a well is full, to clear the well, roll a counter, and then continue exposure for the requisite amount of time.

It's just that with 420 or 1005 metering areas, depending on what level camera that you buy, the metering process could account for one of the areas being drastically brighter than the rest and compensating for it accordingly. Essentially, meter so that the brightest area gets fully, but not over, exposed. They could even be smart and do it by color, so that the color channel of the brightest area gets fully (but not over) exposed.


eventually we'll have advanced metering using the main sensor using points scattered across it. of course, if you do just meter for the brightest area you could screw up the rest of the picture, which may be the important part. lots of little lights on the christmas tree might be properly exposed, but if i don't get the pile of packages under it i've missed the shot.

using a counter to fix blown highlights would allow for essentially unlimited dynamic range on the top end.
 
Originally posted by: ElFenix
using a counter to fix blown highlights would allow for essentially unlimited dynamic range on the top end.

problem with a counter is that in order for you to get 14-bit data in a 1/8000 second exposure, you need a 131.072 MHz clock signal propagating across that massive sensor chip. that will take a LOT of power and generate a lot of heat.
 
Well, he got a better offer from another co-worker and sold just the body for $400. Needing to buy a lens (which would come up to the same cost as the Canon XS), I felt it was better to stay with the XS since it is new and not used and for me seems to suit my needs. I really am happy with the XS thus far.

Now, the only think I am partly debating, is...do I want to upgrade further on the Canon path to the XSi? Amazon has it with the lens for only $639.00. Seems like a good deal, but then again, I'd be spending more money. Maybe I should just save my money and invest in a zoom lens at a later date.
 
since you bought the camera already, just run with it. save the money, buy some lenses. stop looking online at specs and enjoy. cause if you don't, it'll all add up far too quickly =)
 
Keep the XS, get yourself a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 pronto.
 
I know...my constant browsing and searching is kinda making me crazy.

I also just found a refurbished XSi kit (correct, not the XS) at Adorama.com for $550 (the same price as I paid for the new XS at Costco. Says it comes with only a 90-day warranty though. Would this refurb be worth it/better?
 
I wound up ordering the XSi Refurb for $549. I'll let you know how it is when I get it in a couple of days. Thanks!
 
Back
Top