try digilent for xilinx based boards (~100,000+gates for about 100 bucks), i dont think you need a programming adapter
but you will need to get the free webpack xilinx software (couple hundred megs)
or try fpga4fun for an altera based board ( i dunno how many gates) for about 40 bucks last time i checked.
they also have got a bunch of interesting projects to try out FPGA4FUN
altera should have some free software available also
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