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What's your normal maintenance/part replacement on newly bought used cars?

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Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
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While I was under the Silverado we bought last week doing an oil change, I began to wonder what anyone else does routinely for maintenance...and I mean stuff done without question.

So far, I've replaced these parts and usually do unless the parts are new and verifiable as newly installed:

--New plugs
--New plug wires
--Oil change w/filter
--Air filter (although didn't on the truck because when I checked it, it was apparent it'd just been replaced)
--Gas filter
--Cabin air filter (but not done on the Silverado as it doesn't have one)
--Trans filter and fluid replacement or fluid flush if mileage is below 100K--on this truck, it was just a pan drop, replace filter, then replace fluid lost because mileage is at 106K



I've also done these items, or will be doing them by the end of the week, but they're not on my "routine" list:

--Shocks--I've got a set of Bilsteins coming today, they'll go on by Friday

--New coil wires--not typically, but the idle was a little off, sorta rough, that began disappearing after the new plugs and wires, but didn't completely go away. After the coil wires were done, idle is nice and smooth. And, of course, not every vehicle will have these, either. ;)

--Front brake pads--these are about to move into my routine list as pads are usually not expensive and after replacing them, I'm sure they're good. The pads on the truck right now are quite new (the rotors were done very, very recently as they still had that new swirl/crosshatch pattern on them), but lack the initial "bite" I like. So, yanking off those ceramics and putting on semi-metallic pads....just need to decide which.


So, what do y'all do routinely when you buy a "new" used vehicle?
 

Bartman39

Elite Member | For Sale/Trade
Super Moderator
Jul 4, 2000
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One thing many over look is the differential oil... Even though it is synthetic which is what you go back with it still should be changed every 100k... Some of those trucks had drain plugs in the bottom of the housing but most do not so of course you have to remove the rear cover but also be sure to let it drain for a couple of hours and best when its warm by driving it a few miles first... Be sure to drape a rag over the exposed internals due to dust finding its way into every nook and cranny....:thumbsdown:

This next item may be quite an issue with some...? Coolant change, I hate Dexcool period... If its not bad then why the heck are their lawsuits on this crap besides what I have seen it do myself...? Good idea just crap for a product... I prefer the universal formula antifreeze (Oriellys is just fine) and add a bottle of Wixcool which is the same as the Motorcraft stuff... Of course use distilled water for the fill but with a flush you will still have some nasty city water in the system so the Wixcool will take care of that... Been running this mixture in my Dmax for 50K miles and everything is doing good and in another 50K miles I will do it again so every 100K the coolant is done...

Something others may miss on these trucks (like yours) is while underneath pull the front gravel pan (not a skid pan)... Take a good close look at the low mount compressor for any signs of oil leakage on the body... The body o-rings of the compressor tend to leak on these and you will chase your tail looking for a leak if the AC starts to lose freon... The dust covered oil seepage is a dead give a way and of course can only be repaired by a compressor change... (Receiver/dryer & O-tube also)

On the brake pad change my preference is Wagner Thermo-quiet pads... Not the worst on dust but last quite well and seem to bite and stop better than most others I have tried... Good on price too but of course you can spend as much as you want but doubt there is that much difference... Just a good lifetime warranty pad that wears good and does a good job... Oh and has a good balance between pad wear and rotor wear which most do not think about... Years ago they made pads from Walnut shells and talk about quick stops and grabbing brakes but we found the rotors would be gone between pad changes they were just flat worn out...:(

Sounds like you have everything else covered unless someone can think of something else...? BTW saw the new truck and like it and the color for sure...:thumbsup:

2004.5 Dmax 2500HD LS (yep my toy)
 

lavaheadache

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2005
6,893
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Thorough douching. I've already pulled the front and rear bumpers on my newly aquired Carrera to clean the radiators of leaves and little pebbles. There must have been half a bags worth of leaves caught up in my rads.

Next week I'm hoping to find the time to do the plugs because I have no idea if they are 9 years old and just shy of 50k
 

Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
10,473
3,482
136
Nice truck you have there. Nice choice of color, too. ;)


Yeah, the rear diff. lube is on the list. It's original fill was synthetic and it's time for it to be changed. Just hate the mess. Probably going to wait a week or so before doing it, esp. after taking the auto trans. fluid bath I took yesterday when I changed the trans filter. Gotta get that smell out of my nose before I tackle the diff.....

The DexCool isn't on my hit parade, either. But it's there and is fresh. Water pump was recently changed and the coolant is pretty fresh. I'll wait until I have to do the hoses. When they did the water pump, they changed the rad. hoses but neglected the heater hoses. So, they're going next spring. Really have to stagger some of this out...all the bending over the fender takes its toll on my back, and I have shocks to replace this week.

I'm really leaning towards a set of Wagner SuperDuty pads, only because of the enclosed utility trailer we tow and where we tow, through the Blue Ridge Mountains. Around town, who cares really? But coming down some of those mountain sides with 3-4k# pushing against you, the brakes matter, at least to me. I've used Hawk LTS pads before, but their price really doesn't justify their purchase again. The Thermo-Quiets are my "go-to" pad for regular use, tho. Those are what's going on our '94 Volvo 940 turbo. Darned fine pads for the price.
 

Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
10,473
3,482
136
Thorough douching. I've already pulled the front and rear bumpers on my newly aquired Carrera to clean the radiators of leaves and little pebbles. There must have been half a bags worth of leaves caught up in my rads.

Next week I'm hoping to find the time to do the plugs because I have no idea if they are 9 years old and just shy of 50k

Understand the washing completely. It's one of my pet peeves...leaving leaves, pine straw, etc., in bunches lodged in all the cracks and crevices on a vehicle is just asking for rust in those areas. That dried crap just gets wet and holds the wetness for ages, giving an outstanding vector for rust in those spots.

Amazingly, on the truck, I'll be darned if I can find any crap built up anywhere, even directly under the bed. Found a little bit of pine needles hiding under the fuse box that's on top of the driver's fender well and there's an itty bitty pine cone on the driver's frame well between the cab and box, in a spot that I cannot reach, but otherwise, it appears the previous owner was as anal about keeping it clean of that crap as I am.

Hope your plug change goes better than mine did. 10 years and 100k on the plugs I pulled out. Took forever to break each one loose. I'd do one plug, take a break and Advil, do another plug, take a break. Took most of the afternoon to get them done. On one plug, I ended up having to use a 2 ft. cheater bar to break it loose. Wasn't fun.
 
May 13, 2009
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Where'd you get the bilsteins and price? Also will it require a alignment since you're changing the front?
 

Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
10,473
3,482
136
Something others may miss on these trucks (like yours) is while underneath pull the front gravel pan (not a skid pan)... Take a good close look at the low mount compressor for any signs of oil leakage on the body... The body o-rings of the compressor tend to leak on these and you will chase your tail looking for a leak if the AC starts to lose freon... The dust covered oil seepage is a dead give a way and of course can only be repaired by a compressor change... (Receiver/dryer & O-tube also)

When the dealer put the truck up on the rack for me while we were looking at it, we did look at the compressor. Nice and clean and no signs of any leakage. There was an oddity tho...the A/C belt was darned near brand new. The lettering on the belt was still glowing white.

Heck, that truck is so clean you could almost live under the hood and not feel like you're getting too filthy. Of course, there are a few dirty spots, esp. around the oil filler.....spillage apparently....and such, but overall, damned clean.
 

Bartman39

Elite Member | For Sale/Trade
Super Moderator
Jul 4, 2000
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Yeah, the rear diff. lube is on the list. It's original fill was synthetic and it's time for it to be changed. Just hate the mess. Probably going to wait a week or so before doing it, esp. after taking the auto trans. fluid bath I took yesterday when I changed the trans filter. Gotta get that smell out of my nose before I tackle the diff.....
LOL...:thumbsup: Been there done that too...:D

When the dealer put the truck up on the rack for me while we were looking at it, we did look at the compressor. Nice and clean and no signs of any leakage. There was an oddity tho...the A/C belt was darned near brand new. The lettering on the belt was still glowing white.
Did they change the main belt with the water pump and hoses...? Might be the reason for the new AC belt too...? But there was an issue with certain year trucks and breaking the AC belts due to an ECU issue turning the AC clutch on then off and back on real quick which causes even a new belt to break... They had an ECU update to fix this issue but your truck may not be affected just another possible reason for the belt change...? I had a 1999 newer body style ext cab that had this issue and when I changed the rear gear I had a GM tech buddy update the ECU for the gear change and any other updates which included the AC issue... Went from a 3.42 gear to 3.73 with Eaton locker for towing a travel trailer but the best part was MPG's went from 20.2 to 21.4 and with a lower rear gear...:thumbsup:
 

Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
10,473
3,482
136
Did they change the main belt with the water pump and hoses...? Might be the reason for the new AC belt too...? But there was an issue with certain year trucks and breaking the AC belts due to an ECU issue turning the AC clutch on then off and back on real quick which causes even a new belt to break... They had an ECU update to fix this issue but your truck may not be affected just another possible reason for the belt change...? I had a 1999 newer body style ext cab that had this issue and when I changed the rear gear I had a GM tech buddy update the ECU for the gear change and any other updates which included the AC issue... Went from a 3.42 gear to 3.73 with Eaton locker for towing a travel trailer but the best part was MPG's went from 20.2 to 21.4 and with a lower rear gear...:thumbsup:

How did you get better mileage like that? Know someone? ;)

Water pump was done last year, but should be good to go for a while. Guy said it was the first major repair he'd done and the orig. pump lasted almost 10 years. Appears the main serp. belt may have done then as it's in good enough shape I'm leaving it alone, but it's obviously been on the truck for a while. Then again, maybe it was in decent enough shape when the pump was replaced that they left it alone. Given the condition it's in right now, that may be another possibility.

The A/C belt, tho, looks like it was just replaced, so it may be a problem....hmmmm. Now, how to get the ECU checked without spending a buttload of $$ that the dealer always wants. Hate the wallet rape they do.
 

Bartman39

Elite Member | For Sale/Trade
Super Moderator
Jul 4, 2000
8,879
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91
The A/C belt, tho, looks like it was just replaced, so it may be a problem....hmmmm. Now, how to get the ECU checked without spending a buttload of $$ that the dealer always wants. Hate the wallet rape they do.
Other "trick" for the AC belt issue is if it breaks is to buy a new tensioner along with a new belt, this sometimes will help the issue... The only sure cure if it keeps happening is an ECU update... ;)
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
3
81
When I got an 05 Camry with 97k miles I replaced ALL fluids, incl. flushing brake lines and power steering....

I replaced plugs as you did but also replaced the valve cover gasket...along with the PCV valve and PCV hose...

Bought 2 new tires for the rear to match the new pair up front.
 

CraigRT

Lifer
Jun 16, 2000
31,440
5
0
It really depends... When I got my current car used I didn't do anything to it at all for 3 months until recently I changed the oil and MTF from whatever was in it when I got it. Doesn't have enough miles on it to even check the spark plugs etc.

If it's an old Saturn, which I know really well, I would probably change the coolant temp sensor and a few other specific things..
 
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