Whats the best brand of DVD-r or DVD+R for long term storage?

[niwi7]

looking to burn my home movies with friends/ data onto cds and i dont want to lose this info for its really important


whats the best brand to get?

does it matter if its +r or -r (i have dual format burner)

i was looking at princo, ritek, philips, and memorex

tell me what brand u think lasts the longest or maybe a webstie with tests or something

also....does it matter if you burn at 1x, 2x or 4x? like will a dvd burned at 4x wear away or have more chance of corruption than if its burned at 1x or 2x?

thanks so much

 

[jfall]

Taiyo Yuden - watch the wallet with this brand though

These are the choice of professionals and a disk you see in use from some of the major movie studios. Primarily used in duplicating, the Taiyo Yuden disk is now affordable to the high performance demanding user.

 

[niwi7]

thats like 2 bucks a pop


what are like regular dvds that are good

 

[snidy1]

I like TDK DVD+R

 

[CraigRT]

Princo are good and cheap

 

[Dulanic]

Princo are absolute crap IMO, Ritek do very well.

 

[CraigRT]

Originally posted by: Dulanic
Princo are absolute crap IMO, Ritek do very well.

I used to think so too... until they have been getting good write ups from users... and all the places I can buy DVD's in my town sell Princo... everyone says they work great.

I like the Optodiscs I had.. really good quality, and burned like a charm

 

[Amorphus]

Lookie lookie

It is the Media ID that is important, as it reveals the disc maker.

Normally good and reliable:
MXL = Maxell
MCC = Mitsubishi Chemicals
TDK = TDK Corp
PVC = Pioneer
RITEKGx = Ritek
OPTODISC = Optodisc
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh
TAIYOYUDEN or YUDEN = Taiyo Yuden

Normally bad or questionable:
LEADDATA or LD01 or LD or LEDA = Lead Data
PRINCO = Princo
PIO or PIODATA = Fake Pioneer
CMC = CMC Magnetics
ACCU = Unknown OEM
LONGTEN = Unknown OEM
MATRIX = Unknown OEM
PRODISC = Unknown OEM
AN31 = Unknown OEM
SONY = Fake Sony

ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW

- These are generally true. Not always, but most times.
- Also be aware of fake discs using forged ID's.

Bad foils and dyes, as well as bad dye spread are the most common issue that causes bad media. If the dye is uneven or does not reach to the edge of the disc, it is often bad. CMC is known for bad inner-disc spread (dye thinning) and Princo is known for not reaching the edge (sh

Gradual data loss. Also known as "disc fade" and "laser rot", this is actually not very possible due to the mechanics of DVD recordable media. Terms like "disc fade" and "laser rot" only apply to pressed media, which are altogether different from recordable media in structure and physical structure. These theories are still widely argued, and applied only to the corrosion of the metal discs. The only feasible explanation is a breaking of the vacuum enclosure of the disc, allowing air and moisture to permeate the metal and dye. But such chain reaction would occur fairly quickly, not at a gradual pace of months.

Simple explanation: The likely reason people face "disc rot" is that they simply did not check the media when it was first burned. Or the player/reader is now dirty, and not related to the disc at all.

this is all from a quick AT:GH search of "DVD media" and then following a link that was readily apparent

edit:
however, at the bottom, the guy says Princo works well for him... meh. odd.

 

[Eug]

It is the Media ID that is important, as it reveals the disc maker.

It bears repeating that several of these are faked (as you mentioned in your post). eg. Maxell just put out a warning that a lot of so-called Maxell non-branded media is fake.

Anyways, for important stuff I'll use Apple, Mitsui, Pioneer, etc.

 

[gsellis]

Cool thing about real Maxell media, available at Wal-lyWorld (WalMart) for $20 for 10 in -R 2X and +R 4X right now. I don't think I have had a single coaster out of 20 burned. Rated very well at dvdrhelp.com and seems to get the most praise at Pinnacle System's forum for those doing digital content.

 

[niwi7]

thanks but im just worried about randomly losing data after like lets say 10 years or more (this happened to me with generic cd-r's all the time...and only a few years not 10)


i wanna burn home videos on them so obiously i will still keep the 8mm tape but it would be really annoying if lets say 20 years from now all my crap just randomly deleted


im sure anything semi-brand named will burn with thsi liteon especially after firmware updates

so i guess i can go with ritek, tdk or something along those lines and ill be fine...? also are there different brands of dvds from each company, some being worse qualiity, some bettter?

 

[aka1nas]

Well if you buy decent discs they wont be unreadable in a few years provided that they are stored properly. I wouldn't expect them to sit for 20 years on a DVD, though. You should dump them onto blue laser DVD-Rs in like 3 or 4 years when they become affordable and then those onto whatever replaces them before that. I wouldn't really rely on one single format for something like my home movies that I wanted to keep around forever.

 

[Corporate Thug]

ritek
tdk
fuji
ty

 

[niwi7]

Originally posted by: aka1nas
Well if you buy decent discs they wont be unreadable in a few years provided that they are stored properly. I wouldn't expect them to sit for 20 years on a DVD, though. You should dump them onto blue laser DVD-Rs in like 3 or 4 years when they become affordable and then those onto whatever replaces them before that. I wouldn't really rely on one single format for something like my home movies that I wanted to keep around forever.

yeah whatever new formats come aruond ill put it on those....

so lets say in 20 years ill have:

my original 8mm
dvds
blu ray
x
y


all of the same thing

 

[aka1nas]

yep, and you will have a fewer amount of each successive format as they will be larger capacity as well.

 

[corkyg]

Actually, no one really know yet. None of those formats or media have been around long enough to be definitively measured for durability. Estimates and technical calculations are all that exist. We are just now beginning to detect "bit rot" on some CDRs after about 7-8 years.

 

[mikeg]

No mention of Verbatim???
BLASHPHEMY

 

[murphy55d]

Ritek G04 DVD-R discs.

 

[jdogg707]

I like the Ritek 4X DVD+R/-R Discs

 

[CraigRT]

Originally posted by: Amorphus
Lookie lookie

It is the Media ID that is important, as it reveals the disc maker.

Normally good and reliable:
MXL = Maxell
MCC = Mitsubishi Chemicals
TDK = TDK Corp
PVC = Pioneer
RITEKGx = Ritek
OPTODISC = Optodisc
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh
TAIYOYUDEN or YUDEN = Taiyo Yuden

Normally bad or questionable:
LEADDATA or LD01 or LD or LEDA = Lead Data
PRINCO = Princo
PIO or PIODATA = Fake Pioneer
CMC = CMC Magnetics
ACCU = Unknown OEM
LONGTEN = Unknown OEM
MATRIX = Unknown OEM
PRODISC = Unknown OEM
AN31 = Unknown OEM
SONY = Fake Sony

ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW

- These are generally true. Not always, but most times.
- Also be aware of fake discs using forged ID's.

Bad foils and dyes, as well as bad dye spread are the most common issue that causes bad media. If the dye is uneven or does not reach to the edge of the disc, it is often bad. CMC is known for bad inner-disc spread (dye thinning) and Princo is known for not reaching the edge (sh

Gradual data loss. Also known as "disc fade" and "laser rot", this is actually not very possible due to the mechanics of DVD recordable media. Terms like "disc fade" and "laser rot" only apply to pressed media, which are altogether different from recordable media in structure and physical structure. These theories are still widely argued, and applied only to the corrosion of the metal discs. The only feasible explanation is a breaking of the vacuum enclosure of the disc, allowing air and moisture to permeate the metal and dye. But such chain reaction would occur fairly quickly, not at a gradual pace of months.

Simple explanation: The likely reason people face "disc rot" is that they simply did not check the media when it was first burned. Or the player/reader is now dirty, and not related to the disc at all.

this is all from a quick AT:GH search of "DVD media" and then following a link that was readily apparent

edit:
however, at the bottom, the guy says Princo works well for him... meh. odd.

I've used Optodisc... they are great.. i read Ritek and Optodisc are similar in quality.

 

[Sid59]

My FujiFilm -Rs are riteks.
the Memorex +R ... they dont have an id ? Nero CD /DVD speed doesn't report anything.

 

[gflores]

I like TDK