What's a nice, small compressor to get for tires and basic impact gun work?

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I have a 25 gallon compressor I bought about 10 years ago. I forget who makes it but I think I bought it from Home Depot. Never had any trouble at all with it. My only complaint is that it's a bit noisy when the compressor motor kicks on.

Campbell Hausfeld?

I have a 5.5CFM 25 gallon CH compressor and most of my air tools are also CH. None are that great, but none have ever failed. I have their impact wrench and it's good enough to break rusted axle nuts free, so that is good enough for me.

Keep in mind I don't use mine everyday, but have had it for almost 8 years now and it's always been good.

I just checked, it's a DeVilbiss.

It pops the breakers in my garage though so I have to plug it in inside where the washer/dryer hookup is. Which is fine because it's just inside from the garage.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

 

[SoulAssassin]

Obviously this would never power any type of air tool (unless count an air duster) but you mentioned tires. If you want something small and portable I highly recommend the Masterflow compressor in this article. You can get it in a million places besides Costco, I actually got mine at Pep Boys. It does the 33x12.5 tires in my Jeep from 10psi to 35 in a few minutes.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378082

 

[Throckmorton]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

No. Never used any type of torque wrench but the click type

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Oh I see that the wrench above requires 5 cfm of air and the compressors I noted don't even pull 1. Time to see what craigslist has and man-up for a large used one.

QFT the number 1 criteria is how much air you can flow and what the tool needs.

I went with a Sears oil-less 26 gallon. It's was closer to $200 on sale with the same tools to get you started. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916760000P

I also got a free 3/8" 50' hose / reel which is really good, free.

A two stage is WAY better but also about double the cost.

The one I picked is also decent for noise. A lot of oil-less are loud as hell. This one wasn't so bad.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Does anybody have any input on the question above "Question: I don't have any torque wrench/gear right now. Are these impact guns usable with a torque stick or for final tightening (and I don't mean like a shop does with 200 lbs thrown into a bolt with no car for ever undoing it again) would I still need a hand tool to get it just right? "

IMHO always final torque with a wrench. I do A LOT of mechanical work and don't really use my air for any turning of nuts and bolts. With the right breaker bar and proper sized socket I can feel exactly if the bolt will turn or snap.

I have had to use an impact a couple times due to space constraints though and a couple times due to it being the only way to properly tighten something (like a strut top).

My biggest thing with air is nailer/brader's. Makes for perfect woodwork and no hammer blows.

 

[slag]

I do a fair amount of sanding and using a cutting wheel so i needed CFM and a large tank.

I always final torque with a good torque wrench (clicking type) when doing lug nuts.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Throckmorton

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

No. Never used any type of torque wrench but the click type

I have both. Started with the cheap swing arm one but bought a decent quality click type a few years ago. I'd never choose the swing arm one over the click type.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Does anybody have any input on the question above "Question: I don't have any torque wrench/gear right now. Are these impact guns usable with a torque stick or for final tightening (and I don't mean like a shop does with 200 lbs thrown into a bolt with no car for ever undoing it again) would I still need a hand tool to get it just right? "

IMHO always final torque with a wrench. I do A LOT of mechanical work and don't really use my air for any turning of nuts and bolts. With the right breaker bar and proper sized socket I can feel exactly if the bolt will turn or snap.

I have had to use an impact a couple times due to space constraints though and a couple times due to it being the only way to properly tighten something (like a strut top).

My biggest thing with air is nailer/brader's. Makes for perfect woodwork and no hammer blows.

Agreed. I have two nail guns. Well, one nailer and one brad. I've used them both many times to make short work of replacing/upgrading the base molding in our house.

 

[mooseracing]

I enjoy the beam style when working on my feet and not laying on my back. Also most beams I have are as long or longer than a breaker bar so it makes them easy to use. I use the clicking ones when laying on my back putting in new rod and crank bearings though.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: mooseracing
I enjoy the beam style when working on my feet and not laying on my back. Also most beams I have are as long or longer than a breaker bar so it makes them easy to use. I use the clicking ones when laying on my back putting in new rod and crank bearings though.

that really didn't make sense. A breaker bar will be WAY better than a torque wrench though...esp considering you are probably fucking up your torque wrenches using as a breaker.

Most people really don't ever have multiple torque wrenches of the same capacities unless they are part of a shop. Those that are usually will state that in a homeowner type thread.

Beams used to be the best as far as absolute accuracy was required. Today clicks and electronics are where it's at if you buy in at the right level. The best torque wrenches are insanely priced. Even worse are angle ones. However, if you are building 6 figure engines...they will be expected.

The main thing with torque wrenches though is they wear over time. Most never follow the manufacturers recommended service intervals and then bitch about snapping off a bolt head. Worse are those that do what equals abuse to them...then wonder why they don't work right.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Didn't read the thread, but whatever compressor you choose, be sure to get one that has oil in the crankcase, not an oil-less version. They are LOUD.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Didn't read the thread, but whatever compressor you choose, be sure to get one that has oil in the crankcase, not an oil-less version. They are LOUD.

not anymore...but oiled will still be not as loud.

Most of the dudes I know with serious compressors still have them outside their garage.

 

[Sukhoi]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

Especially when doing caliper bolts where on a beam wrench the reading would be facing the wheel well. :laugh:

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

They are incorrect. The people who make the tools say the dial gauge torque wrenches are the most accurate.

Although I think this is really irrelevant, since any well-maintained torque wrench will do any job just fine. Unless you're building some exotic engines, you don't need a dial torque wrench.

 

[StageLeft]

In walmart tonight I see an oil-based (which I'd prefer) 15 gallon Brute (Briggs and Straton ,carried at Walmart) with 71 piece kit for $200. Good price. Reading some pros and cons online. Anyway, one person with it said

My husband has found that this unit does not deliver the 125 PSI (pound per square inch) that is promises, but more like 80-90 PSI. It is a great unit for small jobs but for larger jobs, it doesn't cut the mustard. For instance, he found that it would not give enough power to loosen up the lug nuts on the tire when he got ready to do a brake job on the truck.

A followup was that switching from 1/4 to 3/8" line would let more flow through. I know that the cheapo air tool in this kit isn't rated that high and they have 1/4" fittings, but I suppose that with adapters a person can easily get up to a 3/8" line so that, in theory a two gallon, even, compressor with a bad ass impact wrench could take the lugs off a caterpillar truck if they were willing to wait for the tank to keep going after every few attempts, right?

 

[Toastedlightly]

Originally posted by: Sukhoi

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

Especially when doing caliper bolts where on a beam wrench the reading would be facing the wheel well. :laugh:

psst.. swingarm types have the drivers on both sides

 

[Sukhoi]

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: Sukhoi

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

Especially when doing caliper bolts where on a beam wrench the reading would be facing the wheel well. :laugh:

psst.. swingarm types have the drivers on both sides

Meh I don't think my dad's crappy Craftsman one does.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
In walmart tonight I see an oil-based (which I'd prefer) 15 gallon Brute (Briggs and Straton ,carried at Walmart) with 71 piece kit for $200. Good price. Reading some pros and cons online. Anyway, one person with it said

My husband has found that this unit does not deliver the 125 PSI (pound per square inch) that is promises, but more like 80-90 PSI. It is a great unit for small jobs but for larger jobs, it doesn't cut the mustard. For instance, he found that it would not give enough power to loosen up the lug nuts on the tire when he got ready to do a brake job on the truck.

A followup was that switching from 1/4 to 3/8" line would let more flow through. I know that the cheapo air tool in this kit isn't rated that high and they have 1/4" fittings, but I suppose that with adapters a person can easily get up to a 3/8" line so that, in theory a two gallon, even, compressor with a bad ass impact wrench could take the lugs off a caterpillar truck if they were willing to wait for the tank to keep going after every few attempts, right?

Almost any cheaper compressor will come with 1/4" stuff. 3/8" is really the min. anyone should use, but they are usually a bit more money.

PSI/flow is only part of the battle. Your impact gun has to be able to develop the proper torque with that PSI/flow.

In general an impact gun is not a major air tool as far as compressor specs go. It's the sanders/grinders and blast tanks that really push the limits of a compressor to keep up.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: Sukhoi

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

Especially when doing caliper bolts where on a beam wrench the reading would be facing the wheel well. :laugh:

psst.. swingarm types have the drivers on both sides

Doesn't matter. When you're trying to get leverage it makes looking at the gauge a real PITA.

Edit-my swingarm type doesn't have a driver on both sides.

 

[StageLeft]

So, Alekmyst, if I have a cheaper one with 1/4 native atachments, I can still easily gwt 3/4 on there and lose nothing?

 

[StageLeft]

I mean 3/8

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
So, Alekmyst, if I have a cheaper one with 1/4 native atachments, I can still easily gwt 3/4 on there and lose nothing?

Ahh saw your edit too late..

you should lose nothing going from 1/4 to 3/8" hose, other than the space to store it, the weight of it to pull, and the costs.

To others, bigger is not always better in this case.

Keep in mind air hose is heavy for it's diameter, larger to store, and a lot more expensive. 1/2" hose is needed in some instances, but for typical handyman jobs it's going to be a bitch to use. I don't think I even saw anyone using a 3/4" hose for air tools.

If you are going beyond 50' then upgrading from 3/8" may be needed if you are marginal.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: Sukhoi

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Throckmorton
On Jeepforum they say the beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.

You ever try to torque a nut to 75 ft lbs while looking at the swing arm thingy to see when you hit 75 ft lbs?

Especially when doing caliper bolts where on a beam wrench the reading would be facing the wheel well. :laugh:

psst.. swingarm types have the drivers on both sides

Doesn't matter. When you're trying to get leverage it makes looking at the gauge a real PITA.

Edit-my swingarm type doesn't have a driver on both sides.

It should if it was made properly...

If you are fighting for leverage for the final torque you don't have the vehicle properly situated.

 

[T2urtle]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Oh I see that the wrench above requires 5 cfm of air and the compressors I noted don't even pull 1. Time to see what craigslist has and man-up for a large used one.

QFT the number 1 criteria is how much air you can flow and what the tool needs.

I went with a Sears oil-less 26 gallon. It's was closer to $200 on sale with the same tools to get you started. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916760000P

I also got a free 3/8" 50' hose / reel which is really good, free.

A two stage is WAY better but also about double the cost.

The one I picked is also decent for noise. A lot of oil-less are loud as hell. This one wasn't so bad.

what kind of deal made it 200$, the lowest i've ever see in ads were about $250.

that compressor has my name on it. i've been itching to try it out. are there any negatives to this compressor?