What type of Rear Defogger kit for Tbird/Duron? **WOULD THIS WORK!***

[JokerF15]

hey everybody

what type of rear defogger kit should i get.
i went over to kragen and saw many of them..so i wanna know which one is the right one..any info would be helpful

EDIT!!
CircuitWriter Precision Pen, 7ml

Precision Conductive Ink Dispenser. CircuitWriter applies instant traces on most surfaces (including epoxy, glass, plastic and metal). Allows you to draw traces on circuit boards, repair defective traces, make jumpers and shield electronics, design prototype circuits and repair rear-window heater traces.

would this work!!!

lmk..thx

 

[cpars]

Ask compuwiz, I think 3M makes them but I have never used them.

 

[Technonut]

It is Loctite brand Rear Window Defogger Grid Repair Kit. The only thing that should be in the kit is a small bottle of conductive paint, a small brush, and a stencil. Should cost no more than $7.00. There is a two part kit also, you DO NOT want that one.

 

[Natemeister]

I used the kit made by permatex - worked great on 2 duron processors i have.

currently running a duron 800 at 1050 with this trick.

 

[Healey]

My 600 Duron is still cruising at 1027 thanks to a pencil I had rolling around in my drawer. Over 4 months now.

 

[JokerF15]

anyone know where i can buy this online? or if anyone has some.....extra..ill buy it off them

i dont want to bug compuwiz for something that others in the forums could know..i know he's a busy man...i should research my own stuff...u know..

cuz he's busy enough selling stuff, and then he has to ask questions about stuff like mines.....just seems like a bother to me.
=)

thx.

 

[DarkMajiq]

If you want to buy it off the 'net I would suggest looking at automotive sites.

 

[JokerF15]

i am..can't seem to find it..yet...when i do..ill put the link up =)

 

[DaddyG]

Just visit a few automotive stores in your area. Its almost always kept by the gasket cement. Shipping will kill you on a $7 item. The part # is 15067.

 

[Felonious]

What should I use to apply this stuff? A toothpick?

I've got a bottle of permatex sitting in front of me and my Tbird 1000 just came in the mail.

 

[HighRisk]

a sewing pin would probably be better

 

[JokerF15]

i heard that on the sewing needle, the substance drys too fast. toothpick is the best in my opinion. because it's easier to manuver. and it's pretty much the perfect size. just try out both...on on each l1 bridge and see which one u like better..

u need a steady hand.

 

[Felonious]

Thanks. I tried it on some paper with a toothpick - might have to apply it twice. A steady hand I don't have right now. All this crap just came in the mail and I'm too pumped! Hehehh! It looks like a blue core. If you hold it at a certain angle it looks greenish.

 

[DarkMajiq]

Yeah, they tend to do that, what with being shiny and all.

If you don't have a steady hand, some people have used a credit card to keep them going in a straight line and from accidentally connecting the wrong bridges.

 

[JokerF15]

a note card will work, or a small piece of paper..just cover the bridge on both sides..so u dont interconnect.

 

[achelmer]

I soldered mine and it is fine. However you do have to watch so that you don't get the chip too warm... it does have thermal fuses. my Duron 600@973 with a 50W Peltier and FOP38 is perfect.

 

[BenRosey]

I bought my kit at my local AutoZone for $6 or so. To apply I cut the brush that they supply until only a few hairs were left. It worked well. I thought about using a notecard but I didn't think it would work that well.

 

[dougjnn]

Felonious --

Did they send you a Dresden copper core? (I hear that color is no longer a good guide, but that Dresden is.)

Where did you buy yours. I'm trying to nail down getting a Dresden copper core in a 1.0ghz chip. Unless I have to go to 1.1ghz to nail that.

 

[Felonious]

I got it at Icompz for 179.00 if you mention Pricewatch on the phone. But that doesn't mean you will get the same one that I did. I don't even know for sure if it was blue. But I'm sorry to say that when I went to place the chip in the socket, I found three bent pins. I put it in the mail back to Icompz this morning.

Here is an exerpt from an article I read (sorry, I dont remember where)



A note on "Blue" or "Green" colored AMD dies...

Many of you out there just getting into the overclocking scene may have heard about "blue" or "green" colored AMD die's. Now let me clarify what a die is. On an AMD chip, the spot in the center of the ceramic where the actual wafer of silicone is contained is what they are referring too. In the light, it will either shine green or blue. Sometimes this is indistinguishable but more often than not, you'll be able to tell. The reason why this is often thought of as important is because the newer Dresden fabrication plant uses the blue coloring to distinguish it's fab from others. Now, some people say this also refers to the CPU having copper interconnects or not, well... let me set the record straight.

According to AMD's latest tech brief, they've decided to hold off on producing copper interconnects on their .18 micron process due to the "faults with present technology." In real person talk this simply means that they don't think present copper technology amounts to much and so, aren't going to waste the money on upgrading their fab plants just yet. Although copper is a better electrical conductor and looks good on paper, at this present time when it is new to the PC industry, I tend to agree with AMD. Maybe this will be something to look forward to when everyone converts to .13 micron... but until then, don't expect to find copper anywhere.

Sorry to disappoint many of you who were hoping the rumors were true, but this writer has the skinny from AMD and is gonna run with it, got that? For now, copper interconnects are fictional as far as amd durons are concerned and remains the subject of many heated debates as to whether or not the thunderbird contains them either. For right now at least, neither of them do.

Despite all of this, "Blue" colored cores seem to overclock better than green ones for some reason or another. Whether it be coincidence or merely the fact that blue is made in a NEW plant with newer machines, still remains to be seen. But this fact is still out there and whenever you see "blue" mentioned describing a core, you can pretty much bet it'll be a winner where overclocking is concerned

 

[dougjnn]

Thanks for the info.

But was your core blue, or not? I mean bent pins and all.

 

[Felonious]

Like I said if you held it at a certain angle you could see green, but at most angles it was blue. I would have to be holding a green duron in my other hand to be absolutely sure.

 

[Felonious]

Here is one of those conductive pens if you feel like shelling out for one.