I'm getting sick of the crappy power in my apartment, not to mention worried about my new machine. I'm planning on buying a UPS, but before I get a APC Back-UPS ES 500 from Amazon, I just want to make sure it will be able to handle everything. I'd like to plug in my computer (using the 450 watt antec smartpower standard with a Sonata II), standard speakers w/subwoofer, CRT monitor, wireless headphones, modem and router, and...a desk light? Hmm, seems like a lot when it's all written out. Is that way too much stuff? Do I need to order a larger UPS?
What size UPS?
- Thread starter davenp
- Start date
How long do you plan to run everything for on battery power? Or are you just doing it for the AVR?
Not long. Long enough to shut down in an emergency. This place is susceptible to blown fuses and brown outs (two pronged wall sockets!), so I want to shield my machine as much as possible.
How important is AVR, anyway?
How important is AVR, anyway?
If your wiring is good and you're not getting "dirty power", then you don't really need AVR.
My APC Back Up XS 800 lasts 10 minutes or so with my PC and monitor plugged into the battery backup part. Expect less if you've got a CRT, but don't bother plugging your speakers, headphones, modem, router, or light into the battery backup plugs. When the power dies, you just need the essentials running.
The fact that your wall sockets do not have a ground is bad. Having a ground is _very_ important in the correct usage of a UPS.
My APC Back Up XS 800 lasts 10 minutes or so with my PC and monitor plugged into the battery backup part. Expect less if you've got a CRT, but don't bother plugging your speakers, headphones, modem, router, or light into the battery backup plugs. When the power dies, you just need the essentials running.
The fact that your wall sockets do not have a ground is bad. Having a ground is _very_ important in the correct usage of a UPS.
So should I not bother?
I have one of the 2-to-3 prong adapters on there. Supposedly screwing it in provides grounding!
I have one of the 2-to-3 prong adapters on there. Supposedly screwing it in provides grounding!
Hmm...I think I remember using an adapter that had a little wire that you were supposed to screw into somewhere that grounded it. I'm not sure if I'd trust it, though.
If you purchase it somewhere local you could always return it if it doesn't work properly.
Well, if I do get one, (and I probably will, better than nothing, right?) will that APC Back-UPS ES 500 be enough?
It will probably run your PC and monitor for a couple of minutes, but the fact that you've gota CRT hurts as it uses a TON of power. I don't really have any proof to back myself up, though, I'm just guessing. See if you can find some reviews for that UPS, it might give you a better idea.
Don't you attach the ground wire to the screw that holds the wall plate to the outlet? I'm sure that would ground it.
That depends, that screw is connected to the box which the wiring goes into. That box is screwed (or nailed) into the stud. So if the box is not grouded and seeing as he doesn't have a ground wire going into there I don't think it would help to do that. I'm curious to where you live and why there are only 2 pronged wall outlets. If that is your house, you should look into getting it rewired as you really need a ground.
It's a rental. And it's old. Foundation is heaps of piled stones in the basement old. Don't turn on the microwave in the kitchen when you're running both air conditioners in the upstairs bedrooms old. But we play the cards we're dealt. Yes, the 2-to-3 prong adapter screws into the wall plate, which supposedly grounds things. But who knows.
So you begin to understand my power concerns. Would I be any better off with the UPS?
So you begin to understand my power concerns. Would I be any better off with the UPS?
With out the ground equipment can still be damaged even with a surge protector. Not saying it is always going to happen. Would you be better off with UPS? You could power when it?s out.
As for your situation what I would do. I would try to get whoever is the owner to re wire the house. As that can be a hazard. Also if they won't think about putting a grounding bar in your house. Its a really thick cable attached to a copper bar. that cable is pounded deep into the ground (creating your ground of course) though it should be measured by an electrician for proper grounding resistance. Then I would hook what you would really want to protect up to that bar.
Or just pay for one of your outlets to be grounded.
For instance. I would get a nice monster power surge protector. hook it up and ground it. Then I would have a UPS with voltage regulation after it. As for your question if you need a larger UPS. You should only plug into a UPS what you need to maintain. Your speakers and subs should not be plugged in. You should have your monitor and computer. and possible your router/modem. Just because your computer has a 450-watt power supply doesn't mean it uses it all. Just because a monitor says its 100 watts doesn't mean that?s what you will use. The rating means that?s the highest it will take running at max. Just make sure you cover your computer and your monitor with a couple other essentials. The point of the UPS is to keep you up until power is stable/back on or so you can safely shutdown and wait for it to be back.
As for your situation what I would do. I would try to get whoever is the owner to re wire the house. As that can be a hazard. Also if they won't think about putting a grounding bar in your house. Its a really thick cable attached to a copper bar. that cable is pounded deep into the ground (creating your ground of course) though it should be measured by an electrician for proper grounding resistance. Then I would hook what you would really want to protect up to that bar.
Or just pay for one of your outlets to be grounded.
For instance. I would get a nice monster power surge protector. hook it up and ground it. Then I would have a UPS with voltage regulation after it. As for your question if you need a larger UPS. You should only plug into a UPS what you need to maintain. Your speakers and subs should not be plugged in. You should have your monitor and computer. and possible your router/modem. Just because your computer has a 450-watt power supply doesn't mean it uses it all. Just because a monitor says its 100 watts doesn't mean that?s what you will use. The rating means that?s the highest it will take running at max. Just make sure you cover your computer and your monitor with a couple other essentials. The point of the UPS is to keep you up until power is stable/back on or so you can safely shutdown and wait for it to be back.
My APC UPS has "Battery Backup" and "Surge Protection Only" ports. Granted, it only has about 8 ports total, but if that's enough for you, there's no reason for another surge protector.
I actually did use that configuration tool the other day. Based on that, I'll probably go with an APC 750 from Zipzoomfly (despite no free shipping).
You're all scaring the hell out of me with the grounding thing, but I'm going to have to rely on the screw that attaches the adapter to the wall plate, since I dont think there is any way my landlord is going to spring to have the house rewired.
You're all scaring the hell out of me with the grounding thing, but I'm going to have to rely on the screw that attaches the adapter to the wall plate, since I dont think there is any way my landlord is going to spring to have the house rewired.
Without a known good Ground, it won't much matter what brand/size of surge protector or UPS you use. You gotta have the basics covered.
Yeah, but at the very least, I'll be able to avoid having it shut down everytime we blow a fuse by turning on the air conditioning.
And the screw! The screw totally grounds it. Yessir.
And the screw! The screw totally grounds it. Yessir.
Are you sure? what did you check. The screw just connects to the box on the inside. the box itself needs to be grounded.. and if it is. you could go to home depot yourself and by three pronged outlets and rewire them yourself. it would be fairly simple or have an electrician do it for you, if the ground is ran to the box's then it should not cost much at all.
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