What is wrong with a washer when it does this?

[DrPizza]

Originally posted by: Engineer

Originally posted by: episodic
Well I took out the front panel. I have an old 'galaxy' washer from way back in the sears days in the 90's. they don't even make these any more. It has a very simple mechanical timer. I took off the cover and the timer seems to be doing what it should. I checked the switch that tells you the door is down. It seems to be fine. I jiggled all the wires, unplugged them and reseated them. Nothing.

Yea the the agitator won't spin freely in either direction when emptied. I thought that it use to spin at least in one direction.

So what is a washing machine worth in scrap metal these days

It still could be the timer. Contacts may be bad inside the unit. My dryer had something similar happen (no smartass comments about a washer being a dryer either! ) and replacing the timer unit corrected the issue.

Yep, I think that's mentioned in my first link above. Bad contacts = simple $75 do it yourself repair. Bad switch = $10 simple do it yourself repair.

And the worst part is the knowledge that a lot of parts come from previously broken washers whose owners are thrilled to get the free removal with free delivery of a new washer

 

[Jessica69]

Originally posted by: mizzou
if you are looking for a new washer, I HIGHLY recommend Fisher and Paykel products. Our washer is one of the most efficient energy wise out there and it was the 1st model they brought to America from over-seas and it is EXCELLENT

Plus it makes sweet beeping sounds

I'm glad you like yours and have good luck so far with it.....but Fisher and Paykel's reliability is worse than any other make, except Maytag and Amana.....the two worst brands for reliability in washers.

And Fisher and Paykel brings up the rear in dryer reliability, too, but the spread between the best and worst is pretty small. Dryers are much less likely to screw up....less to go wrong with them, unlike washers with their increased complexity.....pumps, transmissions, etc.

 

[IGBT]

..if somebody hasen't mentioned it there's a safety switch that picks when the cover is shut to enable the drain/spin dance.

 

[Dulanic]

Originally posted by: DrPizza
However, since it agitates, it's not that part. And, while other here suspect the pump, that wouldn't prevent it from spinning. I'd almost guarantee the problem is somewhere in the door switch or wire to the door switch. If the door is open, those are the two things that are supposed to stop. I doubt it's the timer.

If you've already abandoned hope, give the switch a shot - just eliminate the switch and connect the wires. I'm not positive if it's on a relay or not, so be careful - the wires may be low voltage, or they may be 110Volts.

edit: I hunted around and found two articles from a while apart.
here
According to that one, the timer (if it were the timer) is around $65 + shipping.

But, your symptoms are described better in this one (oddly, by the same guy 7 months after the timer was a problem) here

Either way, if you're even slightly handy, I don't think it's too difficult or expensive of a problem to diagnose & repair. If you do decide to replace the washing machine, the motor probably has the most scrap value. Seems like they were around $1 per pound last time I was at the scrap yard, but I really can't remember for sure.

I agree with this. I had the same problem, my door switch had come unsecured from the washer so it wasn't being psuhed down. I just connected the two wires together. I have no kids, who the hell is gonna go for a spin in the open washer?

 

[sierrita]

Originally posted by: mizzou
if you are looking for a new washer, I HIGHLY recommend Fisher and Paykel products. Our washer is one of the most efficient energy wise out there and it was the 1st model they brought to America from over-seas and it is EXCELLENT

Plus it makes sweet beeping sounds

According to Consumer Reports, they stink out loud, as well.

 

[Paperdoc]

You need to take a close look at the timer again. Many were designed with a lot of cams on a common shaft, and each operated one or more switches. In many, each switch was a separate module fastened into the timer body. One guess is the switch for your pump output valve solenoid has failed. If you can identify which it is and get it out, you may be able to clean its contacts and reassemble.

However, I'm intrigued with something. The washers I've worked on have a switch for the main motor, and another for a solenoid valve that directs the pump output either back into the tub or out the drain hose. If only that solenoid control switch were malfunctioning, I would expect the main motor to run and water to keep coming into the tub. That is not what you describe.

So, here's another possibility. There is also a switch in the timer to control the timer motor itself. Any chance it is popping open at the end of an agitation cycle so that the timer just stops?

Oh, thought of a third idea. On my washer, the change from agitation to spin is done in the transmission, and it is based on which way the main motor is turning. To do that, the motor is reversible, and its direction of rotation is set by - you guessed it! - one or more switches in the timer. So a bad switch contact there can mean the motor will stop agitating when it is supposed to, but then it will not re-start in the opposite direction because the contacts for that are bad. Again, this comes down to finding and fixing the right set of switch contacts in the timer assembly.

 

[ICRS]

Galaxy? WTF

I thought SEARS brand was Kenmore.

 

[Paperdoc]

Just thought of a follow-up to my suggestion about the timer and reversing motor. IF you have a reversing motor system, too, check all the connections to the motor. If the leads for reverse operation are faulty, it might work just fine in Forward for agitation, but not work when it tries to Reverse.