• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

What is this graphical corruption and what's causing it?

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Do you still have your stock cooler? If so... after doing all of that stuff above (with no progress) I'd put that back on, and see what happens.
 
Wow...

the point of thermal compound is to fill in all the surface imperfections with something more heat conductive than air, maximizing surface to surface exposure. that huge gap thing is right out. Even if your card runs ok now, you've likely damaged it some, so future overclocking is probably out of the question.
 
Yes, I tightened the screws very tightly.

I looked at Artic Silver's website and they said that Ceramique needs at least 25 hours and several on / off cycles to settle in (and may need several hundred hours to reach final operating conditions).

I tried playing Colin McRae Rally 4 demo and now there are none of those columns in the game (ambient temp is slightly lower, Artic Cooling VGA Silencer fan on max, and Antec Sonata side panel off). Colin McRae Rally 2005 still artifacts almost immediately after starting the game (I'm guessing it is a lot more gpu intensive).

Guess I'll have to see what happens with a little more time.

(I do have the stock cooler, but it's stock thermal pad would probably have to be replaced. Right now it is stuck on the heat sink and is rock hard).
 
I'm not an overclocker and would be quite happy as long as the card is artifact free at stock speeds (ATI tool says 325/310).

The other odd thing is that the air coming out of that VGA Silencer's fan (especially at it's low speed setting) is actually quite hot (so some heat must being transferred).

EDIT: that metal rim around the gpu in the 9800 pictures above apparently produce a slight gap between the gpu and the VGA Silencer rev. 3. When I took the cooler off before and looked at the layer of thermal paste, I would guess that the gap is less than 1 mm. at most. I've read other posts elsewhere about this gap, so I think it occurs on all 9700 Pro and the vGA Silencer rev. 3
 
You havn't messed around with your BIOS at all have you? I'm not really familiar with overlcocking too much, but just a random thought... You couldn't have accidentally increased the voltage to the AGP slot could you have?

Just trying to think out of the box. : /

If it helps - I'll be selling my 9800 pro soon... if ya want it 😛
 
I haven't made any BIOS adjustments, but I will check anyways.

Thanks for the offer on the 9800 Pro, but the even damaged 9700 Pro will probably work fine for me (I'm a very light gamer) as long as it doesn't take the rest of my system down and cause permanent damage to other components.

EDIT: AGP voltage is stock 1.5 V.
 
"To much thermal grease won't work, should just be a small dab of it and it should be tight."

newbie question: shouldn't any excess paste be squeezed out as I tighten down the heat sink onto the gpu?

EDIT: I looked at the bottom of my stock 9700 Pro heat sink and it is flat, just like the Artic Cooling VGA Silencer rev. 3 (except for the solidified thermal pad). I think contact of the VGA Silencer rev. 3 should be just like the stock cooler. Any possibility a thermal pad might work better than Artic Silver Ceramique?
 
The thing about using too much thermal grease is that the excess can ooze out and mess up the circuits...

I think trying the stock cooler is worth a shot.
 
I'm going to let the Artic Silver Ceramique settle in completely.

If I still have the same problem, I probably will try the stock heat sink. (do you think that solidified thermal pad will still be ok?)
 
I changed the scan for artifacts option to the old compatible mode and now I am completely error free over extended periods of time.

What does this mean (still get artifact errors in standard scan for artifact mode)

?
 
No the old solidified thermal pad will not be ok. No extra paste going over the edge is not ok. The paste is thermaly conductive so all you want is a very very thin layer connecting your cooler to your gpu, remember its thermally conductive and that means that it conducts heat. All the heat it conducts you want immediatly taken away by the cooler. Gobs dripping over the side are still conducting lots of heat and without tight contact with the cooler that heat really isnt going anywhere. Think about a grain of rice, now cut that grain in half. Thats how much artic silver you want to use. The drop goes right in the middle and the cooler goes over it and should press tightly against the gpu. Once you press the cooler down on the gpu is should not be raised up agin to prevent little air bubbles from gettings stuck in between your cooler and gpu. Anything else is wrong and will lead to heat issues. Solve your heat issues and you might just solve your artifacting problems.
 
Hi gac009:

I dont' know much about video artifacts. Are my screen shots definitely artifacts or is it possible I've got some sort of driver problem?

Also, generally speaking, does the appearance of a video artifact mean that reversible damage is occuring or that permanent damge occurred previously (and the artifact is because the video card made an error during video processing)?
 
to answer your question pretty much anything thats rendered on your screen inncorrectly ( whether caused by a driver error, heat issue, faulty card, ect.) is an artifact.
the pressence of an artifact just means something isnt right. it might be fixable and it might not be.
you could have a driver problem, but from what you have said in your post you definaly have a heat issue and that should be fixed reguardless or you will defianlty have perment damage. if you suspect that it could also be a driver issue then you should remove your drivers, use a driver cleaner (I personally have used Nasty File Remover for a while now and its always worked fine for me.) and reinstall your drivers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top