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What Dremel tool do you use?

I have one of the cheaper 10k/20k rpm units myself. It does the jobs I use it for, but I also use a DeWalt 18V Heavy-Duty XRP 1/2" Hammerdrill for the more challenging mods.

You really need to right tool for the right job. If you are just cutting some plastic, sanding down a sharp edge, etc., etc., the dremel works fine. However, if I was cutting a hole for a 80mm+ size fan, or enlarging a hole in a steal case, or cutting holes for wire management, well, I use the hammerdrill and the correct cutting bits.
 
I have a cheap clone with variable speed motor. I've gone back to nibbling tool for major cuts as I get cleaner results without shavings getting in every nook and cranny. I use the dremel for cleaning up the nibbled cuts. Hole saw bit for drills is better for fan cutouts.

.bh.
 
I bought the 400 XPR dremel unit for a few specific reasons. It came with a flexible extension piece that allows me to get into very tight quarters.....lot tighter areas than the dremel itself would fit. It has been a blessing. It also came with a hole cutting tool for the dremel.....a piece that fits onto the dremel and you can set for different diameter holes. It has a specific bit for cutting holes to be used and it worked out very well. Actually came out a cleaner cut than the hole saw/drill I had used before. Granted, the cutting discs that come standard with the dremel wear out quickly, but dremel sells some very heavy duty cutting discs that slice through aluminum like hot butter. And they don't wear out quickly, either.

The shavings that are invariably left are easily cleaned out........air compressor (190 psi) and they're gone in a flash.

Love the dremel.
 
@Everyone

So what tool would you recommend if say I want to make a hole for a 120mm fan on the side panel of my Antec P180B case?
 
If that's all you need to do, rent a hole saw bit and a 1/2" drill (a drill press would do an even better job if you know someone who has one) from a rental place. The bit you want is for a 4-1/2" hole. Make sure you draw the cutting diagram onto the panel you're going to cut - a pair of axes that bisect the mounting hole location (put a fan on the piece where you want it and mark the mounting holes with a drill bit that just fits the holes in the fan - just drop it in and spin it a bit. Keep the fan from shifting on you). The center of the axes will be the point to drill the fan hole itself. Half inch drills are powerful enough to throw you if you get stuck - slow and steady wins the race. Cutting oil will help get a stick-free and smooth cut. Use a regular 1/4 or 3/8" drill (or the drill press) to do your starter holes using a 1/8" bit or smaller - much easier to get a properly located hole with the larger bits not wandering.

You might even call around to get a price for having a sheet-metal or auto body shop do it for you - most of them aren't averse to making some easy money. You'd have the job all laid out for them...

A small can of Rustoleum primer would be handy for dressing the raw edges.

.bh.
 
Gotta agree with Zepper. If all you want is a hole, a hole saw is probably the best solution. But make sure if you buy a hole saw for a drill, the saw is a bi-metal saw. It'll cut the steel/alu. much better and cleaner and wear much less. Unfortunately, a half-decent bi-metal saw with arbor, the drill part that the saw attaches to for use on the drill, will run you around $30. So it may be a good idea like Zepper said to investigate some shops that have the capabilities to cut and price them out, too.
 
Originally posted by: Mogadon
Black & Decker Rotary Tool is the business.
Click to expand...

Picked up a B&D dremel cheap at Home Depot (around $25), and 2-3 deals on dremel parts at Harbor Freight, including a set of diamond coated metal disks that won't shatter on me (haven't yet). A dremel is something I use from time to time. Sometimes it's just the thing.
 
Dremel IS a brand name...NOT a tool type.

The tool is called...High speed rotory tool. The small units take an 1/8" shank, the larger units take a 1/4" shank.

The better units are 1/4" air driven. B&D bought out Dremel many years ago. B&D is the better brand.
 
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
The better units are 1/4" air driven. B&D bought out Dremel many years ago. B&D is the better brand.
Click to expand...

Actually, Bosch owns Dremel and I prefer the Dremel over the B&D (which is the same as the Craftsman rotary.)

Interestingly enough, B&D does own Delta and Porter Cable. Of course, DeWalt too.



 
Originally posted by: jonnyGURU
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
The better units are 1/4" air driven. B&D bought out Dremel many years ago. B&D is the better brand.
Click to expand...

Actually, Bosch owns Dremel and I prefer the Dremel over the B&D (which is the same as the Craftsman rotary.)

Interestingly enough, B&D does own Delta and Porter Cable. Of course, DeWalt too.
Click to expand...

I've used Dremel as well as B&D...I find B&D to be the better 1/8" high speed rotory tool.
Air is really the way to go for working steel because it is non-magnetic and the fine steel grit kills electric tooling.
You can be right jon 😉 I will be happy with my B&D for working aluminum Lian Li cases. 😀

 
Isn't the B&D just three speed? My Dremel is 5 speed.

And I find the Dremel Flexible Shaft more comfortable than the B&D Flex Shaft.

I dunno.. it's ok to stick with what you know. The B&D is a good tool too, I just like my Dremel.

As for air? I agree with you there. A regulated 1/4" die grinder tool on compressed air is really the perfect tool for cutting a case. I just don't have access to compressed air anymore. 🙁
 
The B&D has more wattage=more torque.
My 8yr old Dremel died after working fiberglass motorcycle fairings. Glass fiber is more abrasive than steel fines.
Taping a vacuum nozzel inplace keeps most debris away from the motor and cools tooling. 😉
Flex shafts are OK but I find they get hot if worked hard.

For the insane..Harbor Freight #44141 http://www.harborfreight.com/
 
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
The B&D has more wattage=more torque.
Click to expand...

True 'dat. I've stalled my Dremel zipping really soft aluminum more than a couple times. 😀
 
My friend has a semi-generic rotary tool that has variable from 10K to 35K with no speed steps, it pwns both of yours 😉 😛
 
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
My 8yr old Dremel died after working fiberglass motorcycle fairings. Glass fiber is more abrasive than steel fines. Taping a vacuum nozzel inplace keeps most debris away from the motor and cools tooling. 😉
Click to expand...
Here's one for the gipper... 😀
 
Originally posted by: VinDSL
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
My 8yr old Dremel died after working fiberglass motorcycle fairings. Glass fiber is more abrasive than steel fines. Taping a vacuum nozzel inplace keeps most debris away from the motor and cools tooling. 😉
Click to expand...
Here's one for the gipper... 😀
Click to expand...

Actually, I missed the part about needing the tool to cut a 120MM blow hole. I just saw the "What Dremel tool do you use" part.

I would NEVER use a Dremel for a simple 120MM hole. I have a DeWalt hole saw like the Milwaukee Vin links too, or you could use a 120MM punch like this:

http://www.irvansmith.com/catalog2/parts/greenlee_hole_punches.shtml
 
Hey Jonny, didn't know you visited here. What happened to XS?

On topic:
I have a nice dremel downstairs and a bunch of hole drills. For making a 120mm hole, I'd prop the case up so that the target area is at the bottom, then put the whole thing on top of some plywood. Take the hole drill and go right through it. Don't forget to clean the edges up; if you just make a square hole though (in which case a hole drill doesn't work) you can use duct tape to seal the edges in.
 
Originally posted by: MotF Bane
Hey Jonny, didn't know you visited here. What happened to XS?
Click to expand...

I don't usually. < 14 year olds and the fact that the search function doesn't work AT ALL usually drives me away for a few months after a one day visit.

Don't know what's up w/ XS. I'm getting a 404 Not Found.
 
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