What does it mean when...

[Eli]

1) Your water bill doubles from 18,000 gallons every 2 months to 35,000.
2) Your electric bill is ~20$ higher than it normally is.
3) The hot water pressure in the kitchen is non-existant.
4) The pipes in the kitchen are laid in the floor. The floor is concrete.

#$&@#@#^()$*)$(&**%#(^*#^$



Oh well. Not like we'll have to pay for it. Still a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS though. If it's really what I think it is, they're going to have to come in with saws and cut our kitchen floor up.

How could we go about testing the theory that there is a leak in the hot water pipe leading to the kitchen? I guess just turn the inlet to the water heater off, make sure nobody uses any hot water, and see if the tank empties?

Gah.

 

[her209]

Originally posted by: Eli
3) The hot water pressure in the kitchen is non-existant.
4) The pipes in the kitchen are laid in the floor. The floor is concrete.

Ouch.

 

[drnickriviera]

Originally posted by: Eli

How could we go about testing the theory that there is a leak in the hot water pipe leading to the kitchen? I guess just turn the inlet to the water heater off, make sure nobody uses any hot water, and see if the tank empties?

Gah.

Make sure you unplug the water heater.

I guess it would siphon off, but you'd need to open up the pop off valve to let the air in.

Actuall no that wil not work. Water heaters take water from the top of the tank, all the water is going to stay in there.

edit, i'd probably pressurize the hot water line. Take the compressor up to 40 psi and turn it off, if it starts to leak down ....

 

[Safeway]

Slab foundation = no fun. We have pier and beam.

Best case scenario:
Slab shifted, snapped pipe where it enters or exits.
Results:
Chip away concrete, patch pipe, done. Minimal impact to wallet.

Worst case scenario:
Slab shifted, snapped pipe at a undisclosed location.
Results:
Total pwnge to your slab and wallet.

Either way, your floor is toast.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: drnickriviera

Originally posted by: Eli

How could we go about testing the theory that there is a leak in the hot water pipe leading to the kitchen? I guess just turn the inlet to the water heater off, make sure nobody uses any hot water, and see if the tank empties?

Gah.

Make sure you unplug the water heater.

I guess it would siphon off, but you'd need to open up the pop off valve to let the air in.

Actuall no that wil not work. Water heaters take water from the top of the tank, all the water is going to stay in there.

Oh sh!t, duh.

Hmmmmm.......

How about shutting the water heater off, and see if the water becomes cold fast? that might not work so well.

hmm.

Edit How about make sure nobody uses ANY water and check the water meter periodically?

 

[drnickriviera]

Yes, your meter should have a little twirly thing that tells you the water is flowing.

 

[Safeway]

Turn off water heater, shut off the in-valves. Open the air inlet. Don't use hot water. The only escape is your slab.

 

[IHateMyJob2004]

Originally posted by: her209

Originally posted by: Eli
3) The hot water pressure in the kitchen is non-existant.
4) The pipes in the kitchen are laid in the floor. The floor is concrete.

Ouch.

Not a huge problem.

The new plumbing will not be in floor is all.

And cutting concrete isn't a big problem unless it's afinished area as a mess is inevitable. I did plumbing for a toilet in my basement that needed a hole cut in the cement floor. The rental and blades cost about $80. The labor did suck though.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Safeway
Turn off water heater, shut off the in-valves. Open the air inlet. Don't use hot water. The only escape is your slab.

Will there be pressure to push the water out with the inlets turned off though? Since water heaters draw water from the top, it won't just "drain" out will it?

 

[Safeway]

Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004

Originally posted by: her209

Originally posted by: Eli
3) The hot water pressure in the kitchen is non-existant.
4) The pipes in the kitchen are laid in the floor. The floor is concrete.

Ouch.

Not a huge problem.

The new plumbing will not be in floor is all.

And cutting concrete isn't a big problem unless it's afinished area as a mess is inevitable. I did plumbing for a toilet in my basement that needed a hole cut in the cement floor. The rental and blades cost about $80. The labor did suck though.

I feel dumb for not remembering that. He is 100% correct. Chop of the ends, solder on new pipe, done. Leave the old pipe in the concrete.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004

Originally posted by: her209

Originally posted by: Eli
3) The hot water pressure in the kitchen is non-existant.
4) The pipes in the kitchen are laid in the floor. The floor is concrete.

Ouch.

Not a huge problem.

The new plumbing will not be in floor is all.

And cutting concrete isn't a big problem unless it's afinished area as a mess is inevitable. I did plumbing for a toilet in my basement that needed a hole cut in the cement floor. The rental and blades cost about $80. The labor did suck though.

It would have to be in the floor.. what are we going to do, run it above the floor and trip over it everytime we walk through the kitchen?

 

[Safeway]

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Safeway
Turn off water heater, shut off the in-valves. Open the air inlet. Don't use hot water. The only escape is your slab.

Will there be pressure to push the water out with the inlets turned off though? Since water heaters draw water from the top, it won't just "drain" out will it?

I'm pretty sure that it acts as a syphon. Since the opening for the out valves is at the bottom, and immediately runs to the top of the water heater, water should still come out.

Have you noticed and bubbling or spurts in the kitchen sink? If the pressure is really low, air might be able to get into the pipe.

 

[Eli]

Examining the situation a little more...

When the hot water is run for extended periods of time, the floor along the path of the pipe gets warm. There is no warmth anywhere along the path without the hotwater running, so either the leak is too small(10,000 gallons a month? :Q), or.... even worse, it's in the floor under the cabinets.

:Q

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Safeway

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: Safeway
Turn off water heater, shut off the in-valves. Open the air inlet. Don't use hot water. The only escape is your slab.

Will there be pressure to push the water out with the inlets turned off though? Since water heaters draw water from the top, it won't just "drain" out will it?

I'm pretty sure that it acts as a syphon. Since the opening for the out valves is at the bottom, and immediately runs to the top of the water heater, water should still come out.

Have you noticed and bubbling or spurts in the kitchen sink? If the pressure is really low, air might be able to get into the pipe.

Nope, no bubbling or spurts... It's just really low pressure. Hot water pressure in the rest of the house is normal.

It's been like this for a while.. and then I noticed the water bill, and kinda put 2+2 together..

Hopefully I'm wrong though...

 

[psiu]

I wonder how many more of these :Q we'll see before this thread is over.

So if you're not paying for it, who is?

 

[Yossarian]

I see jackhammers in your future.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: psiu
I wonder how many more of these :Q we'll see before this thread is over.

So if you're not paying for it, who is?

LOL

We rent.. so the landlord, heh.