What does 1100W Sobwoofer sound like when..

[Jerboy]

Speaker=1,100W@4ohm

What does it sound like when you hook it up to 65V 20A transformer powered off of 120V outlet?

65/4=16.25
65x16.25=1056W

 

[454Casull]

Acoustically, I don't know what a household electric current might sound like. 60Hz, right?

 

[Superdoopercooper]

Well... you'll probably either go deaf or shatter some bones before you are ever actually able to hear it.

Actually, 60Hz household current is fairly "distorted" There are a number of other frequencies and harmonics in it by the time it reaches you... but in any case, I bet it would "BOOOOOOOM"

 

[flood]

depends on the sensitivity of the sub

 

[sharkeeper]

Why not just connect it right across the lines without a transformer which would colour the output by lowering the damping? A pair of JBL 2226H's in series can handle roughly 1200W program power. (1200W continuous pink noise) A typical vented enclosure with a 44 Hz port tuning frequency (60 is too high for this transducer) would still yield an efficiency of about 101 dB (1W/1M). 1 kilowatt is 30 dBW so you would get over 130 dB at 60 Hz of undistorted power! (this is before room gain which can be over 15 dB depending on room size and shape!) This is pretty loud and can make your pets foam at the mouth, break grout from tiled walls, and drive ten year old dust from beneath the carpets!

Therefore, it's best to conduct such an experiment outdoors. Such a sound will carry well over a mile; to people hearing it far away it will sound like the power company is having transformer problems! (to those that know the all familiar grunts!)

Cheers!

 

[Jerboy]

<< Why not just connect it right across the lines without a transformer which would colour the output by lowering the damping? >>



I added a transformer in the equation, because otherwise you'll blow the speaker.

120volt/4ohms=30A=3.6KW, definitely over the capability of 1.1KW Speaker.



The line comes through many different transformers. Will adding another transformer make such a great difference?

 

[jteef]

heat is the biggest enemy.

moving coil loudspeakers are about 1% efficient. so you're going to be dissipating 1000+W of power in the voice coil. There are several speakers out there that can handle this just fine, but not for very long.

60V rms is probably not enough to drive a true 1100 watt speaker to its Xmax at 60hz. It would probably play until the coil heated up so much that the voice coil former melted or the enamel on the wire in the coil melted. then it would short out and pop the circuit breaker. maybe start a fire. A lot of people do this to see what will happen. Usually isn't anything spectacular.

fwiw, there was a guy that scored over 170 decibels in his car with a single sub and about 4400 watts.


jt

 

[Jerboy]

<< heat is the biggest enemy.

moving coil loudspeakers are about 1% efficient. so you're going to be dissipating 1000+W of power in the voice coil. There are several speakers out there that can handle this just fine, but not for very long.

60V rms is probably not enough to drive a true 1100 watt speaker to its Xmax at 60hz. It would probably play until the coil heated up so much that the voice coil former melted or the enamel on the wire in the coil melted. then it would short out and pop the circuit breaker. maybe start a fire. A lot of people do this to see what will happen. Usually isn't anything spectacular.

fwiw, there was a guy that scored over 170 decibels in his car with a single sub and about 4400 watts.


jt >>




hmm... FOUR 1000W music power 4ohm speakers connected in series should yield 16ohm. If I make two sets of these and connect them in parallel, it should yiled 8ohms. Connect that beyoch to 240V 30A dryer branch circuit, and it will draw 30A, resulting in power use of 7,200W.

Do all that in laundry room

 

[jteef]

uh, 2 4 ohm speakers in series is 8 ohms. and the power from your wall is average power or more incorrectly called RMS power. not music power.

Basically music power is a made up term. If thats what your speakers are rated with then I would expect them to exceed the xmax/xsus/xmech limits which will probably result in a torn up spider and surround and possible a cone/voice coil ejection. wear saftey googles, stand back and have a fire extinguisher handy if you want to try. expect a loud noise coupled with lots of metal on metal clanging and then a fire. Make sure your breaker is rated for at least 30 amps at 240V, otherwise it'll be a short show.

don't do it near your house.

jt

 

[flot]

I believe there was at least one subwoofer out there that could literally be plugged right into a wall outlet... It would play 60hz until the heat buildup was just too much and it melted or caught on fire - but I want to say that somebody or other did test this and the speaker performed pretty remarkably for the minute or whatever it was... ;-)

But yes, Jerboy, I think you're right, you could certainly wire 4 subs together and come up with something that could handle the load. I think it'd be pretty impressive!

 

[Warin]

Been there, done that.

Soundstream plugged one of their subs into a 110V 60hz wall outlet. It made this monster low tone, and flapped all over like it was trying to puke it's guts out.

In a similar experiment in our install bay, we got the same low tone for about one second before the woofers went poof. They were really sheap

Another cool experiment with audio gear is to plug a drill into the speaker outs and then play a constant 60hz test tone and drill holes (Saw this too. Not exactly efficient and i bet it hooped the amp, but it was cool)

THis isnt really hightly technical though...

 

[brxndxn]

why a drill... how about a light bulb?

holy crap.. I bet it would be fairly easy to make a ghetto graphics equalizer.. don't feel like making plans for it though