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Watercooling setup and placement questions

C

churcheo

Member
Ok,

Here is my setup:

I'm going to be using a Lian Li PC-75B, it's really large, especially near the top. I'm looking at a Modstream or Powerstream to power it, either 520W or 600W, any input on a PSU that is going to be able to handle all that overclocked and a pump?

Athlon 64 4000+
DFI Lanparty nF4 Ultra-D (On 4V for DRAM)
ASUS X850 XT
2x512 OCZ PC4000 EL Dual Chan VX Gold
1xWD Raptor 74Gb SATA
1xSeagate 200Gb SATA
NEC ND-3520A
Audigy 2 ZS

Now, I definitely plan on overclocking it as high as I can with it being stable, and I have a feeling that is going to be pretty high.

With that said, here is my current idea of a setup:

Waterblock: Either TDX 64 with copper top, 1/2" fittings or a Swiftech MCW6002-64 with 1/2" fittings. Can I get some outside opinions from you guys on which you think is the best? If the TDX, are the accelerator nozzles recommended?

Chipset: Danger Den MAZE4 Chipset Block with 1/2" fittings.

GPU: Danger Den Acetal MAZE4 with 1/2" fittings.

Pump: Danger Den DD12V-D4 with 1/2" fittings

Radiator: Now, I care about looks, but I care about performance more so I am looking at the heater core here:
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=48&cat=14&page=1

I would put it would a shroud with 2 120mm (85CFM) Panaflos in push/pull config if there's room, if not, then just 2 120mm Panaflows on it. That or the Black Ice Xtreme III looks like a waste, but you guys tell me. I'd have 3 of the same Panaflos on it. I am looking to mount this at the top of the case, but if needed, the bottom. Definitely need some good input on this situation.

Reservoir: Danger Den RESHDPE or Danger Den Single or Dual 5 1/4" bay one, which would be the best?

Misc: 1/2" Tygon with clamps, AS5, etc

Also, Fluid XP+ because I like the peace of mind it'd give me in the tradeoff for 1 or 2C.

Thanks very much, any and all input is much appreciated. If you completely disagree with any of my choices, let me know what you think.
 
TDX or 6002a very good choice
Maze4 GPU block very good choice also... make sure you get all brasstop for your blocks
the DD D4 has a slight whining sound to it... I would go with the Aquaextreme 50z from www.cooltechina.com it's much more quiet

Also go with the BIX3 or BIP3 would be better if you want a quieter setup 🙂 you can push less air through the radiator than a heatercore... go to www.sidewindercomputer.com and pick up a BIP2 if you got the cash or just a heatercore... if you dont got the cash

Reservoir it really doesn't matter but you would want to place it on the top of the 5.25 so the water can bleed faster.

Tubing you can always go pick some up that has 1/8" thickness at your local hardware store or you can get clearflex which is cheaper. One last thing lose the chipset waterblock you won't yeild any extra preformance.
 
Heater core would still perform better, correct? Also, if I had a Dual Heatercore with 4 fans in push/pull, how much better would that be then 2 just pushing? If I have a bigger res, instead of a single bay, I might get a dual bay, how will this effect it? It will lower pressure right, but there's now more water to absorb heat? Should I just stick with a smaller res? Also, tygon vs clearfex, it doesn't matter?
 
The jury's still out on which performs better. I've read two reviews from reputable sites that claim flat-tube, thin-fin rads are better. However, there are many people who will argue you into the ground about how cores are better, seemingly because they're cheaper. If you have the money, want your case to look nice and don't want the mounting hassles that most cores bring to the table, go with a rad. Push-pull will give you a slight performance boast, but at the cost of noise. Pull is the best way to mount fans because it allows for more even airflow through your exchanger. Don't forget to use shrouds.

The way I understand it, static pressure on a pump makes it last longer. So as long as you have your res mounted high you'll accrue this benefit plus effortless bleeding. A dual res is less prone to sucking bubbles. Tygon sticks to barbs better, is very chemical resistant, lasts a long time and is clear as glass. If you want to pop for these extra things you won't be dissapointed. If you don't, CF 60 is fine.
 
Hm, interesting. I do want my case to look nice, this is what I was thinking of doing, let me know what you think since you have the exact same case. Is there plenty of room for everything in your mind? I'd get this heatercore, it's dual and already black so will match my case (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=658). I'm still considering the BIX III though, and I'd mount it the same way as the following.

I would mount the fans just like blowholes on the top of the case, then mount a dual shroud and then the core, what do you think? What kind of mounting problems comes with a core?
I am going to get the dual 5 1/4" bay res and mount it in the top bay. Well, I plan on having a watercooling for a long time, so I'd like it to last. How flexible is it? Also, about how many feet of tubing do you have in your case?
 
Is a chipset block really necessary on that board? They seem to clock really well as it is, seems like a chipset block will just add to the tubing hassle.
 
Originally posted by: churcheo
Hm, interesting. I do want my case to look nice, this is what I was thinking of doing, let me know what you think since you have the exact same case. Is there plenty of room for everything in your mind? I'd get this heatercore, it's dual and already black so will match my case (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=658). I'm still considering the BIX III though, and I'd mount it the same way as the following.

I would mount the fans just like blowholes on the top of the case, then mount a dual shroud and then the core, what do you think? What kind of mounting problems comes with a core?
I am going to get the dual 5 1/4" bay res and mount it in the top bay. Well, I plan on having a watercooling for a long time, so I'd like it to last. How flexible is it? Also, about how many feet of tubing do you have in your case?
Click to expand...

Nice price for a good looking core. :thumbsup: It seems to me, based on the blurb, that you won't have a problem mounting it. The shroud will fix to the core and the fans will fix to the shroud and then the top of your case. You won't even have to worry about the width of your case, as long as the core itself isn't too wide, which it isn't. Flexibility in terms of adding blocks? Very, especially if you buy blocks that allow for different mounting hardware. I would estimate about 6-feet total. Which is a bit more than most, but it hasn't harmed my performance.

BTW churcheo, you're spec'ing the hell out of this project. I'm truly impressed. If you're so inclined, I'd very much like to see pics.

 
Absolutely, I will provide pics when it's finished. I will get some nice fan grills for the top of the case too. So, do you think that heater core is the way to go performance wise? Also, where do you put your pump in your system, just at the bottom of the case? I was planning on buying about 10 feet just in case, overkill? How are your temps by the way? Need to think of more cool things to do to this case 🙂

 
TBH, I don't think there's enough of a difference to worry about. At the bottom, in front of the drive cage. Attached with that real stiff Velcro. 🙂 Yeah, 10-feet sounds about right. You'll want some extra tube just in case you miss a cut. CPU=36c idle, 40c load GPU=42c idle, 44c load. I just cleaned my rads and added new fans, made a big difference.
 
Hm, looks like I'll have to think about that decision then. I ordered that pump, but it's ETA isn't until the 25th (sigh). What is the order of your setup? What's going to be the difference between 3 Panaflos pushing 85CFM and 3 pushing 115CFM, besides 30db? Also, are there any 3 fan shrouds available IF I got BIX 3 or am I going to need 3 singles? I decided I'd add an accelerator #5 to the TDX also. Sorry for all the questions, but you seem like a good guy and regarded quite highly amongst the waterclockers here.
 
Geez, that long? :Q 30 dB and better performance but at the cost of noise. With a core that large, even with an overclock, you can get away with the 85CFM fans, but if you don't mind the extra noise the 115CFM fans will net you better cooling. I've never seen a 3-fan shroud. Register here and PM a guy named Weapon. He makes shrouds and may be able to help you. 3 single shrouds MIGHT fit though, I'm not sure. Of the TDX nozzles 4 and 5 are the best performers with a strong pump. However, 5 has a problem with clogging. Just an FYI. No need to apologize. I enjoy sharing what little I know. 😉
 
Forgot to answer this: pump>CPU>GPU>rad>rad>res-pump. You can fudge on this a bit like: pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res-pump. As long as you don't have a pump that depends on system coolant to cool itself there isn't going to be a lot of difference.
 
I'm going to wait and called DangerDen on Monday to ask them about the shrouds. I can't PM weapon for some reason. I'm thinking I might just get the BIX 3 due to it probably will fit a bit better, looks nice, heard it will cool the same if not a tad better, mounting would be less difficult and it's a little more quiet. What do you think? Ah, I will probably use nozzle 4 then. Hardwarrior, when I start this project, do you mind if I PM you and we continue there instead of cluttering the board? I might have some somewhat newbish questions, but I need to just about all I can before I start this. Any more WCing secrets you'd like to share?
 
Churcheo, if you're handy with cardboard (like me) you could just make youself a shroud. I've made hundreds of cardboard shrouds for my CPU, only using old boxes and some boxing tape. Work great, and of course, cheap as hell. Just make sure you measure twice before you cut, poorly measured shrouds = frustrating waste of time.

Hmm once I get my WC set up, I'm gonna cardboard me some fun shrouds. I just need more boxes...
 
If there isn't a decent option available, I'll just making some aluminum ones, I have TONS of that around. Hey, if I wanted to put a water temperature probe in there, what would be the ideal thing for it? If I had a Aerogate Gatewatch, could I hook it up to something like this: http://www.3dcool.com/Details.asp?cid=36&id=1344? The connectors on the temp sensors on the Gatewatch match that of the picture. It wouldn't hurt flow or anything and could I just put it in the res?
 
Sure, PM me anytime you want and don't worry about "newbish" questions. We all started at the same place. Did you get an error when you tried to PM Weapon? Sounds good to me, though there's one thing you should know about BIX rads. They require muscular fans to perform their best. Some where on the order of 90CFM. BIX rads kickass under these conditions. Secrets? 🙂 Well, keep your coolant as close to plain water as possible. Secure your barbs with worm clamps. Test you loop twice before you power your box. Don't buy a cheap pump. Believe me, it isn't worth the hassle. Blow your rad out every couple of months or so. And above all, READ, keep an open mind and help someone else when possible. 🙂
 
Yup, I've got two myself. Very sweet fans. Yeah, that's the best place to get worm clamps anyway. I look for any excuse to got to Home Depot. 😉 Distilled water plus some sort of biocide.
 
Excellent. Here's where I got my bottle. So far I've treated three loops from it, so it lasts a good while. You may be able to find it cheaper if you look around.
 
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