Watercooling my P180

[mb]

water_begin.jpg

So far, that picture is about all the setting up I have done.
I've had my Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA+ kit for over a week already, but I'm in grad school so I'm trying to balance my work load while getting this done. I almost felt like saying forget it, but I've invested too much money to not go through with it. Luckily I have my trusty Dell laptop in the mean time!

Anywho, I was getting used to the idea of cutting and dremeling my case to fit the pump inside. I did some more searching and found someone who installed the pump like I how I have my mock setup. I really think it will be the best way to go. I was worried there might be issue with my 8800GTS, but it looks like it will work fine.

I've got my hole saw ready to go for the holes in the back. I think I might do that tomorrow morning just to get that step out of the way.

I don't know when I'll get around to doing the whole thing, but I thought I would post this to see if anyone has any feedback to offer. Plus it'll be easier to update this as I go along then make a whole new thread when I eventually finish.

 

[thilanliyan]

Can't you put the pump in the lower compartment? If I was gonna do watercooling that's what I would do. Or maybe have the pump in the same compartment as the res (if it wasn't too big). However, I suppose your pump might not fit where the res is. I've got the same case as you by the way.

 

[mb]

Thanks for the feedback.

The pump definitely won't fit where the res is going.

Most people seem to put their pumps in the lower chamber of the P180. My problem is that my PSU is so long that it would not fit on that side without removing the lower middle 120mm fan. I would also have to drill two more 7/8" holes to run the tubes. And even then it would be VERY cramped and quite easily prone to kinking where I could fit it.
I also can't put it on the right side where the hard drives go, because I have more than 2 drives, so at least one would have to go down there. Plus, my 8800GTS was a tight fit when using the upper HDD cage.

This guy put his pump on top. That's also an option, but then I'd have holes on the top of my case...

This one has the pump where I'm thinking about putting mine... I think. It's a pretty dark pic.

 

[thilanliyan]

I see. I actually don't have any HDDs in the bottom chamber (My 8800GTS JUST fits with the 2 HDDs in the upper cage) so I have no fan there...that's why I suggested the bottom chamber but yeah if you have the fan and HDDs there then it's a no go.

My idea for the radiators was to have 2 of them (running in series with a decent pump) inside the case...one at the rear exhaust and one at the top exhaust...that way there's a cleaner look to the case. If using some of the thinner HW Labs radiators I think it could work. Alas, I decided not to watercool...not worth the hassles in my opinion especially if you like to fiddle around with components (like I do) once you've built the system because working inside the case with watercooling components in there is a real bitch.

I did have my previous X1800XL watercooled and it made a huge difference but with the current card I'm happy with the overclocks and temperatures so no point in trying to go higher for minimal gains.

 

[mb]

water03.jpg <-- the whole setup

water01.jpg

water02.jpg


Finally! Now all I gotta do is leak test it and then hook up all my components!


It's been about two and a half hours and so far everything is going great.

I think I'm going to have to buy some adhesive thermal paste because I've knocked off all of the "self-adhesive" heatsinks for my video card and they will not stay on there.

The pump is a little whinier than I expected.. hopefully when I add the thick pad to the mount that will quiet it down a little. Right now I just have it held in place by two bare screws.

 

[mb]

Well I've blown past the 3 hour mark that the instructions recommend for leak testing..

I just ordered some Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive from ewiz so I guess I will have to wait until I receive that so I can put the heat sinks back on the video card.

So it looks like I'll be "leak testing" until then. Sigh

 

[iscsidude]

A good rule of thumb is to keep your pump below your reservoir. Your picture looks good as I can see your MCRES-Micro in the drive bay above your pump.

BTW, unless you are sure you will never have to RMA that 8800, I'd recommend a 25/75% mix of AS Adhesive and AS5 for those heatsinks.

AS Adhesive is epoxy and you could pull the chip out if you ever want to remove those heatsinks.

You probably already know this, so never mind.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: supafly
Well I've blown past the 3 hour mark that the instructions recommend for leak testing..

I just ordered some Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive from ewiz so I guess I will have to wait until I receive that so I can put the heat sinks back on the video card.

So it looks like I'll be "leak testing" until then. Sigh

Ummmm minimum 12-24 hour leak testing on blocks and parts b4 you go LIVE.

Also did you use Distilled water? or did you decide to throw in tap? If you used distilled your coolant is "non-conductive". If you used TAP, then i would wait the 12-24 leak test.

Other then that, the setup looks clean and great!

If you decide you want to change blocks on the CPU to a accelerator type, your going to need a dual pump, or a stronger one. The D5 is reliable as hell, like a japanese car. But its about a Accord in strength compared to its little brother DDC-2 which would be like a Acura TL.

 

[mb]

Yah I used distilled water. I was quite surprised to see that the installation manual only suggested 3 hours for leak testing. I guess they really have that much confidence in their product...

But yeah, I'll be leak testing for days until I get my ewiz order.

Thanks for the tip on the AS5/adhesive iscsidude. I'll keep that in mind


Oh man, I wish I didn't add this up because it's kind of shocking how much this project cost me..

$299.95 Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA+ kit
$9.95 Swiftech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks (for 8800GTS)
$16.95 Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks (for 8800GTS)
$5.40 shipping
$5.95 MCW60 G80 adapter kit
$1.25 ATX Power On Connector (to run PSU w/o mobo)
$4.35 shipping
$6.55 Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive (for the RAM heatsinks on vid card)
$2.00 Two Super Talent 12 inch 3 to 3-pin Extension Cables (so I can run the rad fans to my fan controller)
$6.50 shipping
$49.95 Dremel (to cut screws, de-burr holes, drill new hole to secure pump)
$10 hole saw (already have 24V power drill)
$2 bucket (in case I have to drain system)
$2 hex nuts from Radio Shack (lost/missing from G80 adapter kit)
$2 distilled water
$6 six-pack of 1 liter water bottles (for easy measure of additive)
$27.95 Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler
$14.95 KwikCut Advance Tube Cutter
$4.80 shipping

= $478.50 !!

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: supafly
Yah I used distilled water. I was quite surprised to see that the installation manual only suggested 3 hours for leak testing. I guess they really have that much confidence in their product...

But yeah, I'll be leak testing for days until I get my ewiz order.

Thanks for the tip on the AS5/adhesive iscsidude. I'll keep that in mind


Oh man, I wish I didn't add this up because it's kind of shocking how much this project cost me..

$299.95 Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA+ kit
$9.95 Swiftech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks (for 8800GTS)
$16.95 Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks (for 8800GTS)
$5.40 shipping
$5.95 MCW60 G80 adapter kit
$1.25 ATX Power On Connector (to run PSU w/o mobo)
$4.35 shipping
$6.55 Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive (for the RAM heatsinks on vid card)
$2.00 Two Super Talent 12 inch 3 to 3-pin Extension Cables (so I can run the rad fans to my fan controller)
$6.50 shipping
$49.95 Dremel (to cut screws, de-burr holes, drill new hole to secure pump)
$10 hole saw (already have 24V power drill)
$2 bucket (in case I have to drain system)
$2 hex nuts from Radio Shack (lost/missing from G80 adapter kit)
$2 distilled water
$6 six-pack of 1 liter water bottles (for easy measure of additive)
$27.95 Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler
$14.95 KwikCut Advance Tube Cutter
$4.80 shipping

= $478.50 !!

ROFL... u bought some not needed things. Garden Snips work great as tube cutters.

Dremel is money well worth spent even if you were on AIR.

You could just make your own epoxy. Just mix some crazy glue onto AS5. About 20/80 mix should be good enough. Or spread the AS5 over the area u wish to mount, and drop crazy glue on the corners. That works well also, and its not so permenent.

That swiftech kit is raited at one of the top kits you can buy. Only kits better from my usage would be petratech's Elite series. But that swiftech kit will do you justice.

You jumped too many stores in buying stuff. Consult my sticky next time as petratech should have everything you need and they dont rip off on shipping!


OH i forgot to note:

Welcome to the darkside!

Watercooling becomes EXTREMELY addicting.

Here

Heh.... my 2 babies, both h2o cooled. One on full performance spec, while the other on super quiet mode.

 

[iscsidude]

$478.50

Sure glad I didn't add up my latest project.

Some things are just better left alone.

You might want to read this thread. Very informative:

Water Cooling Basics

 

[nealh]

Watercooling becomes EXTREMELY addicting

aint that the truth

 

[mb]

I really wish I noticed this before, but that long tube I've got going from the southbridge to my video card is too long. Too long to close the case. Sigh This means I have to drain the whole thing just to shorten that one length of tubing.

At least I can say it's passed 19 hours without a leak.

 

[iscsidude]

Ahhh. I see what you mean. I just noticed your water03.jpg picture. If you're pulling it apart from the SB to the pump, you might want to consider a "T" being added as well. The base of the T can be used for a drain the next time you need to pull the loop apart.

A drain allows you to refill with the same coolant and almost zero chance of a mess.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: iscsidude
Ahhh. I see what you mean. I just noticed your water03.jpg picture. If you're pulling it apart from the SB to the pump, you might want to consider a "T" being added as well. The base of the T can be used for a drain the next time you need to pull the loop apart.

A drain allows you to refill with the same coolant and almost zero chance of a mess.

ROFLROFL... this guy speaks the truth. Get a T line and drop it at the lowest point in your loop right b4 the pump. It will seriously help with draining. Only problem is when filling. Its easier to fill the system up with your reservoir. If your pump is too far from the res, then filling via T-Line becomes easy too.

 

[Brett]

Could we get a picture of the back of the case? I'm considering doing a watercooling setup on my new PC which has a P180 Case. I'm curious about how much clearance you have for the back panel.

Thanks!
Brett

 

[mb]

Originally posted by: Brett
Could we get a picture of the back of the case? I'm considering doing a watercooling setup on my new PC which has a P180 Case. I'm curious about how much clearance you have for the back panel.

Thanks!
Brett

I'm not at home right now, but this is the best picture showing the back that I still have on my laptop.
back.jpg

 

[mb]

Originally posted by: aigomorla

Originally posted by: iscsidude
Ahhh. I see what you mean. I just noticed your water03.jpg picture. If you're pulling it apart from the SB to the pump, you might want to consider a "T" being added as well. The base of the T can be used for a drain the next time you need to pull the loop apart.

A drain allows you to refill with the same coolant and almost zero chance of a mess.

ROFLROFL... this guy speaks the truth. Get a T line and drop it at the lowest point in your loop right b4 the pump. It will seriously help with draining. Only problem is when filling. Its easier to fill the system up with your reservoir. If your pump is too far from the res, then filling via T-Line becomes easy too.

Can you suggest a specific product for my 5/8" OD (7/16 ID) tubing?

 

[Brett]

Originally posted by: supafly

Originally posted by: Brett
Could we get a picture of the back of the case? I'm considering doing a watercooling setup on my new PC which has a P180 Case. I'm curious about how much clearance you have for the back panel.

Thanks!
Brett

I'm not at home right now, but this is the best picture showing the back that I still have on my laptop.
back.jpg

Are there any issues with clearance? Like would you have any problems making a connection to a dual headed video card if the second connection was to the extreme top right of the expansion slots?

 

[mb]

Originally posted by: Brett

Originally posted by: supafly

Originally posted by: Brett
Could we get a picture of the back of the case? I'm considering doing a watercooling setup on my new PC which has a P180 Case. I'm curious about how much clearance you have for the back panel.

Thanks!
Brett

I'm not at home right now, but this is the best picture showing the back that I still have on my laptop.
back.jpg

Are there any issues with clearance? Like would you have any problems making a connection to a dual headed video card if the second connection was to the extreme top right of the expansion slots?

I think it would be a tight fit, but I think it should be OK. When I get home I will take some more pictures and give you an update.

 

[mb]

Here's a few pics, hope they are helpful.
back01.jpg
back02.jpg

 

[iscsidude]

Originally posted by: supafly
Can you suggest a specific product for my 5/8" OD (7/16 ID) tubing?

Sure can. Here is a poly T. Many places sell them.
1/2" Poly T

For the drain, I use a quick disconnect. This allows me to snap it on to start the draining. I use one from www.mcmaster.com
Part Number 51545K54 plug and 51545K97 socket.

They also sell the Poly T as Part Number 53415K161. It's more expensive though.

Here is what the finished product looks like:
Quick Disconnect Drain Valve

If you set it up like this you would obviously need to use your reservoir to fill. I just grew tired of tipping over the system to drain it. Now I just pop on the quick disconnect, open the top of the reservoir to let air in and let the water drain into a bottle.

 

[mb]

Originally posted by: iscsidude

Originally posted by: supafly
Can you suggest a specific product for my 5/8" OD (7/16 ID) tubing?

Sure can. Here is a poly T. Many places sell them.
1/2" Poly T

For the drain, I use a quick disconnect. This allows me to snap it on to start the draining. I use one from www.mcmaster.com
Part Number 51545K54 plug and 51545K97 socket.

They also sell the Poly T as Part Number 53415K161. It's more expensive though.

Here is what the finished product looks like:
Quick Disconnect Drain Valve

If you set it up like this you would obviously need to use your reservoir to fill. I just grew tired of tipping over the system to drain it. Now I just pop on the quick disconnect, open the top of the reservoir to let air in and let the water drain into a bottle.

Could something like this work as an easy way to drain the system if it was connected at the bottom to a T line?

If I do this, I'd like to get everything from one store, but I can't seem to find a place that has everything... mcmaster does have everything, but I don't want to buy in packs of 10...

Edit: looks like jab-tech has the best deal, if that piece will work:
$0.99 1/2"T Line for 1/2" ID Tubing - Clear
$11.95 Dangerden Fillport - Delrin
$1.60 (4) Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black
$5.40 shipping
= $19.94 shipped.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: supafly

Originally posted by: aigomorla

Originally posted by: iscsidude
Ahhh. I see what you mean. I just noticed your water03.jpg picture. If you're pulling it apart from the SB to the pump, you might want to consider a "T" being added as well. The base of the T can be used for a drain the next time you need to pull the loop apart.

A drain allows you to refill with the same coolant and almost zero chance of a mess.

ROFLROFL... this guy speaks the truth. Get a T line and drop it at the lowest point in your loop right b4 the pump. It will seriously help with draining. Only problem is when filling. Its easier to fill the system up with your reservoir. If your pump is too far from the res, then filling via T-Line becomes easy too.

Can you suggest a specific product for my 5/8" OD (7/16 ID) tubing?

Tubing


T-line


Let me teach you the number1 mistake all newbies, including myself, have made.

DO NOT GET TOO GREEDY.

Dont complicate your loop if this is your first attempt. Sorry to say ops, but you dont have a bling bling h2o cooling kit. You have what is known as a medium/high performance kit.

Quick disconnects, i highly doubt you need for such a small loop.
Even addition of a T-line is probably the last thing you want to do. Dont add extra stuff until you gained some foot hold in this hobby and you've gotten your foot wet.

Start out simple, and then add on later on. Dont be thinkn of adding a second radiator now, or a second pump. Try to keep it as clean and simple as possible.

Once u've gotten your foot wet... well...

May look complicated to you, but ive been doing this type of loop for 1 yr now

That isnt how you want your first build to look like. Just to let you know

 

[iscsidude]

Originally posted by: supafly
Could something like this work as an easy way to drain the system if it was connected at the bottom to a T line?

If I do this, I'd like to get everything from one store, but I can't seem to find a place that has everything... mcmaster does have everything, but I don't want to buy in packs of 10...

Edit: looks like jab-tech has the best deal, if that piece will work:
$0.99 1/2"T Line for 1/2" ID Tubing - Clear
$11.95 Dangerden Fillport - Delrin
$1.60 (4) Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black
$5.40 shipping
= $19.94 shipped.

You wouldn't want to try to use a fill port as a drain. You could keep everything else on your list and get one of these simple plugs:
Danger Den Plug

Or, just use anything around the house with an OD of 1/2" as a plug and clamp it off. Heck, even a 1/2" stainles steel bolt would work.

I'd also just get some worm screw clamps from my local hardware store and forget the plastic tubing clamps.

I was just thinking since you had to pull the bottom of the loop apart anyway, it might be a good time to consider a drain. Once you get hooked, you will likely be adding/changing/removing blocks more than you are currently planning on.