Watercooling advise requested

[snowpetrel]

Hello All,

I am going to build a PC soon for myself (currently buying the components). As an IT'er and somebody that believes he knows a lot about computers I find watercooling and more extreme overclocking to be something I don't have much experience with yet. (AIO solutions don't count in my opinion, the same for auto overclock tools)

In order to solve this without going bankrupt I bought a 2nd hand setup from someone to get started with watercooling.
This setup consists of:
- tubing
- an MCP 655 pump (no top)
- swiftech apogee XT
- a lot of plastic 90° barb fittings from the brand "gates"
- a T-piece (plastic) and a drain/fill port or however you call a plug for at the end of the extra tube connected to the T
- a chipset cooling block
- 2 swiftech 240 radiators stacked on top of each other with fans in the middle. (I guess this is the mcr 220-q
and mcr 220 q stack version.)

I have read a lot about how to assemble loops/what to do/... and learning that is part of the fun, so I won't ask for help about that just yet.
I got some questions about the material I got though:

1) I have a lot of these plastic fittings. Are they reliable? in every topic I see metal/specific brand fittings recommended.

2) the CPU block looks like it has the imprint of the previous CPU still on it and some lines (not deep scratches). What is the best way to try to clean it? wipe it with ethyl alcohol I guess, but if that doesn't help is there something else I can try? like sanding it,...

3) is a chipset waterblock worth using over the default cooling blocks on a motherboard (probably going for ROG maximus VI hero; mix of overclock+gaming)

4) these radiators are stacked. Is it best I separate them and try to find plugs for the stack radiator? If not, what case can fit this radiator? my budget is €100-200 for a case. Cases I was looking at are the phantom 630, 750D or cosmos SE but feel free to advise something else.

5) I guess it is also best if I invest in a reservoir? or is filling it up slowly using the T-piece enough?

6) Are there other components/parts you suggest I buy?

I am probably going to expand the loop to my GPU after I am more familiar with it all, but I want to try things with a CPU-only setup first to start with.

thank you in advance for any advise!
Nik

 

[dma0991]

1. Metal has better durability and aesthetics than plastic ones. Plastic may work but I'd avoid if I could.

2. If the imprint is a deep scratch of the corners of the IHS, no amount of polishing will help although metal polish like Brasso(must clean surface of any residue with alcohol afterwards) works. Lapping isn't recommended as waterblocks tend to have a convex surface that ensures better contact as it bows under pressure.

3. It depends on the chipset block. They're usually very specific to the board that it was meant for and rarely a universal mount.

4. Separating the radiator allows you to put more fans, which can lead to improved performance over stacking. Try Cooler Master CM690II. There's a version that has support for a bottom 240mm(HDD cage removed) and 240mm at the top.

5. In the long run its a lot easier to get a reservoir. You could get a Swiftech MCRES or a bay reservoir.

6. Get new tubing(assuming that you're getting the same exact old tubing that was used), preferably colored. Some silver coils and distilled water too.

 

[guskline]

Buy the largest case that holds the most radiators you can afford. I have a CM HAF 932 ADV and I wish I had bought a NZXT 810 or even the Corsair 900D especially for cooling my cpu (3930k) and 2 gpus. Buy a new cpu block. I bought a Swiftech Apogee HD for my 3930k and it works well. I agree on new tubing and silver coil. DEFINITELY clean and seperate the radiators and run seperate fans. I use a XSPC RX 360 mounted at the top of the case with 3 fans pushing air out the top and a XSPC EX 360 mounted externally to the rear with 3 fans attached to it. For just a cpu in a loop 2 240 mm fans will be perfect. In fact if you are only cooling 1 gpu 2 240 rads should handle both the cpu and gpu. I know your location lists Belgium. I buy from FrozenCPU in Rochester, NewYork, USA.
I'm just a fledgling in custom water cooling but it's fun.

 

[aigomorla]

I got some questions about the material I got though:

1) I have a lot of these plastic fittings. Are they reliable? in every topic I see metal/specific brand fittings recommended.

2) the CPU block looks like it has the imprint of the previous CPU still on it and some lines (not deep scratches). What is the best way to try to clean it? wipe it with ethyl alcohol I guess, but if that doesn't help is there something else I can try? like sanding it,...

3) is a chipset waterblock worth using over the default cooling blocks on a motherboard (probably going for ROG maximus VI hero; mix of overclock+gaming)

4) these radiators are stacked. Is it best I separate them and try to find plugs for the stack radiator? If not, what case can fit this radiator? my budget is €100-200 for a case. Cases I was looking at are the phantom 630, 750D or cosmos SE but feel free to advise something else.

5) I guess it is also best if I invest in a reservoir? or is filling it up slowly using the T-piece enough?

6) Are there other components/parts you suggest I buy?

I am probably going to expand the loop to my GPU after I am more familiar with it all, but I want to try things with a CPU-only setup first to start with.

thank you in advance for any advise!
Nik

1. we dont use plastic fittings anymore because they would either break under heat and stress or, it would be near impossible to get the tubing off them after you secured them once.

Also metal fittings allowed us to get close to the bore diameter which plastic wont, and still keep strength for tubing.

2. Unfortunately the XT is a bowed block. So no dont sand it... The imprint on the plate is also fine, you shouldnt worry too much about it as the main cooling point is the center. You also wont be able to remove the imprint without sanding it.. however again.. sanding a bowed block is just a quick way to spell disaster.

3. Chipset or full cover? Theres a big difference between the two...
Chipset is something like this:

A full cover is a whole other beast like this:

The chipset id say no.. not unless u intend to also watercool the mosfets / vregs on the board and the south bridge if ur SLI or Xfiring.

The full cover again... ONLY if ur SLI / Xfire... as its very difficult to cool the board when u have 2 Videocards watercooled as well as the CPU with very little air being directed back at the board.

4. Stacked? Rad sandwitch!! nomnomnom..

do you have strong fans in the middle?
Are u gonna sandwitch that complex again with fans?
You need powerful static though stacked radiator complex.

5. A Res will save you 10x the bleeding time over a T-line
And the evolution of water has grown to the point where we can do it in a dual front bay with your D5 directly attached to it.
Its a Res that acts as a top for your D5... makes it a whole lot more friendly for our hobby.

6. a D5 Bay Res... like what i told u in #5.
Get a bay res where u can attach your D5 directly to it... like the Koolance one... its expensive because its better quality and can accept 1-2 D5's.
http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps

this one is cheaper at half the cost.. but only allows 1 pump... but near same function:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=34300

450 -> D5 -> 655