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Water Tank woes

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So a tenant just had their gas turned back on an the pilot light is not working and the tank is not being lit. I have no experience when it comes to water tanks and pilot light ignitions. I am aware of turning off the gas from the main lines and the process of how to ignite the burner and I was trying yesterday but it looks like i might have to replace parts.

What are the safest procedures in doing so? Is there any specific type of paste to use around connections?
 
Has someone tried to re-ignite the pilot light?
Is there gas flow to the pilot?
Was the gas line to the tank closed at one point?
 
could just be the thermal fuse. super easy to replace. if it is the weird one time use ones from whirlpool, you may have to replace the whole burner assy. model number starts with fg i think. certain lowes stores sell them, you will have to call and ask. If its black pipe you can use the yellow gas tape, or the green goo stuff. I just use the tape. if just a flex hose with flair fittings, no tape or sealant is needed.

check your model number, but a part like this. took me about an hr to remove the old parts and install the new.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_330511-135-6911118_1z0wd7s__?productId=3435524&pl=1

if not that stupid design you may just need this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_51122-74493-CQ100A1005_1z0wd7s__?productId=3594840&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1

Our gas got shut off for some reason and we were able to light the pilot, but as soon as you let the valve back out it would go out. Did some research and found out about the class action suit over the damn thermocouple.
 
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Can you hear the gas hissing out when you try to light it? My guess is that the shutoff on the supply line at the water heater is also shut off. Somebody was messing with that valve thinking it was what the utility company shut off.

Too much of a coincidence I'm thinking for something to go "bad".
 
Has someone tried to re-ignite the pilot light?
Is there gas flow to the pilot?
Was the gas line to the tank closed at one point?

1.We've followed the instructions and no go.
2. That we are not sure of. Thought there should be a hiss going to it. Going to check the gas stove upstairs next.
3. I think so.
 
could just be the thermal fuse. super easy to replace. if it is the weird one time use ones from whirlpool, you may have to replace the whole burner assy. model number starts with fg i think. certain lowes stores sell them, you will have to call and ask. If its black pipe you can use the yellow gas tape, or the green goo stuff. I just use the tape. if just a flex hose with flair fittings, no tape or sealant is needed.

check your model number, but a part like this. took me about an hr to remove the old parts and install the new.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_330511-135-6911118_1z0wd7s__?productId=3435524&pl=1

if not that stupid design you may just need this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_51122-74493-CQ100A1005_1z0wd7s__?productId=3594840&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1

Our gas got shut off for some reason and we were able to light the pilot, but as soon as you let the valve back out it would go out. Did some research and found out about the class action suit over the damn thermocouple.


I'm not sure what it is. I've always had bad luck with trying to fix them. I want to learn though
 
These things come with instructions. If the problem can't be solved after reading them, it is time to call a professional.
 
1.We've followed the instructions and no go.
2. That we are not sure of. Thought there should be a hiss going to it. Going to check the gas stove upstairs next.
3. I think so.

2) Pilot light area may not have enough pressure to hear gas flow.
3) If the line was closed; ensure that it is now open. The valve shutoff handle should be parallel with the line
 
Well did it the old fashion way. Took off the glass window on the burner assembly and stuck a camp fire style extension lighter through the window and lit the burner. Then put the glass peep window back on. Saved some bucks!

Thanks everyone for the help 🙂
 
If it helps for future troubleshooting, a thermocouple is 2 different metals joined together at one end, when that junction changes temp it generates a small voltage. They are used to check if something is on, i.e. a pilot light. To prevent gas from being thrown at say a furnace or water heater, without knowing for sure it'll light. If the thermocouple dies, it provides no measurement, and that looks like the pilot has turned off. The equipment then assumes it's not safe to open the gas valve and acts accordingly.

They are pretty generic, even a small ACE hardware will have most of what anyone needs (the generic-ness always made me wonder if it was government mandated to make it easy to replace a safety feature but I don't know if that's true).

This is my experience with them anyhow. Hope that made sense. Had a bit of whiskey.
 
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Learning the mysteries of pilot lights and the lighting thereof is a lesson that should be learned before leaving home. Since, you haven't learned, pay someone who knows how and learn how to do it. When you do learn how, teach your kids, any other clueless people you know and, your neighbor. Only then will your debt to society be repaid. 😀
 
I see you won. I was going to mention, it should light regardless of the thermocouple - if the thermocouple is bad, it won't stay lit when you take your finger off the reset button. If it's slightly blowing your flame of your lighter, then it's simply air in the line, and should light in a few seconds.
 
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