Water system pressure tank replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.

krose

Senior member
Aug 1, 2004
513
15
81
Anyone ever DIY replace one of these? Ours is on its way out, I think the bladder is shot. Pressure is good then steadily decreases, then it comes on and pressure increases again. The well pump itself is providing most of the pressure. This happened once before about 20 years ago so I guess it's had a good life. I'd like to DIY if it's not a difficult job.
 

Blain

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
23,643
3
81
Anyone ever DIY replace one of these? Ours is on its way out, I think the bladder is shot. Pressure is good then steadily decreases, then it comes on and pressure increases again. The well pump itself is providing most of the pressure. This happened once before about 20 years ago so I guess it's had a good life. I'd like to DIY if it's not a difficult job.
Shouldn't be much problem. Plenty YouTube videos on installation.
Stand ready to replace some corroded or worn parts. As long as you're going to have the water shut off and the line opened, think about things you'd like to add...
Pressure gauge, backflow preventer, filter, etc.
 

schmuckley

Platinum Member
Aug 18, 2011
2,335
1
0
It could just be the switch.
I would drain the tank and try a fresh reset before replacing tank.
Pump bladder to 35 psi.
15 years is a pretty long while for one, though.
 

Micrornd

Golden Member
Mar 2, 2013
1,338
220
106
Shouldn't be much problem. Plenty YouTube videos on installation.
Stand ready to replace some corroded or worn parts. As long as you're going to have the water shut off and the line opened, think about things you'd like to add...
Pressure gauge, backflow preventer, filter, etc.

And you might as well kill 2 birds with one stone and release the system pressure by draining the water heater to get the gunk out it while you have the chance ;)
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
Pump bladder to 35 psi.
Umm, that's not necessarily the right pressure. It should be set in conjunction with the pump start up pressure. It should be set at 2 psi less.

I had my tank replaced at the same time I had the lines coming into the house switched over from galvanized to brass and/or copper as dictated by the replacement fitting. After nearly 25 years, one day while down in the basement I realized I was looking at a potentially huge problem as the galvanized fittings were very corroded. The plumber is a friend and I asked him about replacing the pressure tank while he was at it. The one I had was builder sized (small) and I thought it might be better to have one homeowner sized (larger) so the pump didn't have to run as much. He replaced it as part of the job

I noticed afterwards that the pump sounded like it was really straining and taking a long time to shut off. I started researching the proper pressure. IIRC, the tank was delivered with 95 psi in it which is exponentially too high a pressure. With the tank empty, the pressure should be set 2 psi less than the pressure the pump will kick on at. Now is a great time to find out what that pressure is. It's also going to be a great time to make adjustments if they are required. The two pressures, turn on and turn off should be on the underside of the cover of the pressure switch. Hopefully you have a gauge piped in somewhere that is still functional. Mine was not after all those years.

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/m...l-plumbing-discussion/8740-well-pressure-tank Post #3.
 
Last edited:

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
Anyone ever DIY replace one of these? Ours is on its way out, I think the bladder is shot. Pressure is good then steadily decreases, then it comes on and pressure increases again. The well pump itself is providing most of the pressure. This happened once before about 20 years ago so I guess it's had a good life. I'd like to DIY if it's not a difficult job.
Just read your post through more closely so everything I posted earlier is now for information only. You have a well related problem, not a holding tank problem. Think about it. If the pressure is decreasing without a tap opened in the house, where is the water going? With a ruptured bladder, the water would still stay in the tank and the pressure would hold. The pressure is going down because there is a leak somewhere ahead of the pressure tank. Now, I am assuming that you don't have a leak somewhere in the house or in a crawl space. From your description it would be a big one.

You most likely have a corroded drop pipe, or a leaky check valve. If the weather is suited to this there is something you can check out to see if it's something more serious. Between the well and the house where the line comes in from the well, go outside and start stomping around in that area. You are looking for spongy or even springy ground that would indicate a leak between the well and the house. It's possible that you have a leak at the pitless adapter but generally the water is going to go back down the well casing if that was the case.

If you have shallow well with a jet pump, the check valve will be right there with the pump or may be incorporated into the pump itself.
 
Last edited:

jaha2000

Senior member
Jul 28, 2008
949
0
0
Agree with the above. 20 year old well I would guess the male adapter on the pitless is corroded and leaking into the ground.
I did a DYI on mine. have to dig a big hole around the casing while not getting the wires. The male adapter on my well crumbled when I tried to remove it. It was replaced with a brass piece.
 

krose

Senior member
Aug 1, 2004
513
15
81
Thanks, all. I should have been clearer. I first noticed the pressure drop occur while I was showering. It does not drop with no water running. The house is 25 years old and the contractor POS quickly died in about five years. It had the same symptoms back then. Replaced with this one which has been good until now, amazingly. Lowes and HD look like cheap Chinese crap. Looking for a quality USA made unit.
 

Arcades

Junior Member
Mar 12, 2015
6
0
0
I recently had one installed, with copper piping. I'm terrible at sealing joints by saudering, so I paid to have someone professionally do it. It's not terribly expensive of a procedure...so if you want to save yourself the time of doing it, pay for it.
 

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
13,357
7
81
It would be worth checking the bladder first for proper air pressure before you replace the thing. Mine was at only a couple PSI empty. It is about 15 years old, Well-Mate brand. I aired it up to 40PSI (my kick on pressure) and it has been far better and the pump isn't running and short cycling all the time.

Perhaps your bladder is bad, but it is possible it just leaked down over the years and needs recharged. It is worth a shot.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.