Water Softener Installation

[Aikouka]

I've been putting off replacing my water softener for quite a while; however, I finally purchased a new unit to install. Honestly, most of it is fine since my home has a really old unit that is currently being bypassed (it would need to be recharged), but I do have one question about it... and that's the proper way to install the drain hoses. The current unit is in the crawlspace, which has no open drain lines unlike what you might find in a basement. I've got the GE 40,000 Grain Unit, and it appears to have two drain lines: one of them appears to be pumped and the other appears to be inertial. The current system has a black hose that comes off of it, which I assume is the old drain hose, that goes over a few feet to the kitchen's drain line where there's currently a PVC plug. I assume that's where they used to drain it; however, a friend of mine told me that's likely a clean-out spot. Now, about 10-15 feet away is where the washer empties into the waste line.

So, I'm wondering what is the best way to tackle the drain? Is that port from the kitchen drain a viable solution? If so, I assume that I need a 1" air gap... well, likely with either spot. From what I can tell, if I use the kitchen one, I can easily do the pumped and inertial drain without any worries; however, the other location is too far away for the inertial drain; which means I'd need a pump to handle it. Something like what I use for my dehumidifier ought to be fine.

Here’s a photo of the waste port: https://imgur.com/a/LyzWO
(That small black hose is the drain line from the existing unit.)

Also, in reading reviews of the unit, I've noticed that some people installed their own separate by-pass valves for the unit. Would you guys recommend the same? It looks like the advantage is that you can easily remove the unit without shutting off the water. Albeit, I hope I don't have a reason to remove it.

 

[boomerang]

I am not a plumber but that does not appear to be a cleanout to me. They are typically angled so that a snake can be easily inserted and removed to deal with a clog.

If the headroom is available, I would run a standpipe up from that plug and drain into the standpipe. The standpipe would need to be high enough to give you an adequate air gap. Higher than the discharge line coming out of the softener should do it. If the dimension specified is 1", that's what you need as a minimum. A secondary issue is if there is a trap in that line where it runs to the main drain. Without a trap you will have sewer gases coming out of the standpipe. In my opinion as a non-plumber, you could put a trap in your standpipe and accomplish what you need in that regard if there is no trap. You may need a trap regardless in the standpipe for other reasons. A plumber, I am not.

One drain line is for brine and one drain line is an overflow in case the float in the brine tank malfunctions and the brine tank overfills on the fill cycle. You appear to know this, I mention it for everyone else.

As far as the bypass valve, that is a preference issue. You will need a way to isolate the softener should it need service. Whether a bypass valve is the best way is a judgement call. Throwing one lever versus two or three, besides being easier, is probably less confusing to many people. To many, plumbing looks like a form of mysterious spaghetti.

 

[Aikouka]

If the headroom is available, I would run a standpipe up from that plug and drain into the standpipe. The standpipe would need to be high enough to give you an adequate air gap. Higher than the discharge line coming out of the softener should do it.

So, essentially like what you do when you install a washing machine? Would the hard part there be that the overflow drain (gravity-based) is below the brine drain (pump-based)? I also can't really make it higher since it lacks any extra force to push it. What if I used something like this?

A secondary issue is if there is a trap in that line where it runs to the main drain. Without a trap you will have sewer gases coming out of the standpipe. In my opinion as a non-plumber, you could put a trap in your standpipe and accomplish what you need in that regard if there is no trap.

There currently aren't any traps past that point since they're all right below the sink. I figured that I might have to add one similar to what is over by the washing machine's drain line (it has a P-trap).

 

[boomerang]

So, essentially like what you do when you install a washing machine? Would the hard part there be that the overflow drain (gravity-based) is below the brine drain (pump-based)? I also can't really make it higher since it lacks any extra force to push it. What if I used something like this?

You're getting too far out of my area of experience to give what would be just an opinion on that without seeing it plumbed into place.

FWIW, I had water softeners in several homes for well over thirty years with the overflow from the brine tank not plumbed anywhere. There was nothing more than a 90 degree elbow sticking out of the brine tank. I never experienced a stuck float or an inlet valve that would not seal closed that caused an overflow. That's not advice to not do it the right way. I'm just relating my experience. I also had basements where the overflow would have run into a floor drain.