Water Hammer Arrestor for Washing Machine and Toilets?

[mshan]

I have an LG front loading washing machine (model #WM2016CW) which has very fast closing valves that cause a lot of water hammer.

I got the cheap water hammer arrestor (metal T) from Lowes and it really doesn't do anything.

I saw this bulb like ones on This Old House and found this: http://www.pexsupply.com/Water...stor-Watts-150A-608000

My question is which one do I need?

What is standard diameter for washing machine water spouts and also hosing for washing machine?

And what is standard diameter for toilets also?

Is there some sort of standard metal T piece I could get at Home Depot or Lowes and just connect the 150A to?

(is teflon tape rolled about 3 times around proper install technique for these types of connections)

 

[SandEagle]

ATOT is not your personal plumbing service.

that said, i have no idea what you're talking about

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

You have to measure the diameter of the water supply pipe for your washing machine and toilet. Unfortunately, there is no "standard" size although they are generally a 1/2" or 3/4".

 

[Evadman]

I've always used a 10" pipe extension as a hammer arrestor and never had any problems.

 

[mshan]

Outer diameter?

I think the one I currently have installed is this: wrong product


Correction: I think mine looks more like this: http://www.siouxchief.com/Supp...ers2/Mini-Rester.7R7YG (choose picture of model 660-H)

If that is what I have, I guess it is 3/4 inlet water source and 3/4 outlet to LG washing machine tubes.

 

[TheSlamma]

Some washer boxes these days have hammer arrestors built into them, but you will find they don't get rid of the hammer 100% Here is one similar to the one that I have and it helps but doesn't stop hammer completly.


Not saying nothing will come of it, but the house I grew up in was built in 1903, the water hammer was so bad there when the sprinkler valves would turn on and off you could hear it from the 3rd floor attic and we never had any problems.

 

[mshan]

Yes, the hot and cold water outlets appear to be all copper tubing.

Do I measure outer diameter of washing machine hosing?

 

[IGBT]

I install 6" air chambers with a copper T and elbows when I'm installing copper plumbing. The trapped air acts like a shock and stops the hammer.

 

[TheSlamma]

Originally posted by: mshan
Yes, the hot and cold water outlets appear to be all copper tubing.

Do I measure outer diameter of washing machine hosing?

The hose is 1/2" and the female connectors on each end are 3/4"

 

[DrPizza]

You say you installed hammer arrestors already. Did you install them correctly? i.e. the orientation of them is critical. If you installed them sideways, then they just fill up with water instead of retaining air, and they do nothing.

 

[mshan]

Yes, I turned the water off, took that cheap water hammer arrestor off, and inner diameter of copper hot and cold water outlets is 3/4, and inside diamater of washing machine tubing looks like it is 1/2, even though the connector appears a lot larger than that.

I think I need one of each of these for the hot and cold water outlets:

http://www.pexsupply.com/Watts...mer-Arrestor-4504000-p

http://www.pexsupply.com/Watts...er-Arrestor-12822000-p

Does that sound correct?

 

[mshan]

Yes, they were installed properly a couple years ago.

This Old House episode says air gets absorbed over time with this time of cheap water hammer arrestor, and they don't work well. The ones with the large air cavity and membrane inside were what This Old House installed on one of their episodes.

Didn't work well when they were brand new, either. I usually end up running hot and cold water from faucet nearby as kind of pop off valve. I think washing machine pulls water in sidestream from common source. This way banging isn't quite so severe as it would otherwise be. (polybutylene was used in lots of homes around here, and previous owner had polybutylene replaced with cPVC under the polybutylene class action suit. Don't know how they installed it, but I am wondering if they threaded the new plumbing inside the old (?). It's not copper, and presumably it is not quite as secured to frame as if plumbing had been installed when condo was built in late 1980s.

edit: ended up calls Watts directly and Tech said that the 150A-HA was just the other two products packaged together. Don't know why price difference is so great at that website, but bought two of the 150A and two of the 150HA. Hopefully this fixes problem definitively.